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Let's talk about HVLP mini spray guns

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Orange peel is caused mainly by paint going on to thick (too wet )and not flowing out (leveling) you want a light tack coat , followed by a couple of wet coats, spray just long enough to see that it's wet looking and basically push or move the wet paint across item being painted,you do not need a particularly wet application of base coat because it does not need to shine , not flowing out is mostly caused by the wrong reducer hardener for the Temperature , reducers come in basically four speeds, spot is fast setting for small jobs that need to be pushed out, sets in around 20 min, low med & high temp , to match your air temp a good quality clear will take what seem forever to dry , the slower it dries the better it flows out, here's, how you wan it to turn out, the whit specs are just loose dust from outside, notice the lower right corner of the tank , you can see a tad of unlevelness where it has not been rubbed out , that's a little better than new car paint, that's what you want, if your matching panels on a car not to show smooth, as far as guns go hvlp or lvlp or lvhp(old stile), has nothing to do with whether a gun is siphon or gravity feed, they make them in both stiles, as far as paint goes find one you like and stick with it, if your painting pearls light dry looking base coat is what you want to lay to keep the pearl or metallic from moving and mlotting together in spots, the link to the auto body forum is your friend, the youtube video's are your friends, the product data sheets are your friend, have fun, if you mess up thats what sand paper is for
You actually have it pretty much right on. The one thing I will disagree on is that putting paint on too thick will cause orange peel, it can happen thick or thin. It's all about thinner speeds. Thin or thick coats don't matter much. If the paint flash dries to soon.....orange peel. And I do know this, there is a fine line between paint flow, and a run.
 
You actually have it pretty much right on. The one thing I will disagree on is that putting paint on too thick will cause orange peel, it can happen thick or thin. It's all about thinner speeds. Thin or thick coats don't matter much. If the paint flash dries to soon.....orange peel. And I do know this, there is a fine line between paint flow, and a run.

You have to lay orange peel down in the first place IE too thick, for a catalyst too keep it from flowing out , it's not pushing it up from underneath
 
I like TCP Global out of San Diego, but I find if I need the good stuff, i have to order it to AZ and then have my brother drive it back over. They sell a weak CA CARB paint. I also like Southern Polyuerathane's Epoxy Primer, this is the best stuff for sealing bare metal. There is a SP dealer I have an account with in SFV. Sometimes you can find good paint at swaps.
 
Sounds like two problems one might be the air pressure is not enough. Try turning the pressure up slowly till the paint flows out nicely the adjust the pattern. Or you have a plugged spray nozzle. Look at the nozzle see if the holes are plugged. As for the ratio I'm not sure with that brand but this might work ...... 8 parts paint
2 parts reducer
1 part hardener
Make sure the reducer is adaptable to the weather temp conditions.
If you use too much air the paint will dull and require a sand and redo. Not enough will run. If go light coats then let each flash dry. Light is better than heavy.
have the place u get your paint from give u the factory data sheets,they are directions on how to use all the different ingredients,when to use them tec,everything u need to know
 
Yes you get the mixing ratios with the product. Always ask for them and get a graduated mixing stick to boot. Don't mix different brands together you won't like the end product.
 
I would suggest mixing cups with lids, there about a quarter each and lids are around a dime, half pint size would be good for bicycle
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