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I would recommend removing all mounting screws and essentially disassembling the frame 100% to individual pieces. Water will get into the threads and won't dry out if it is assembled, then just rust away.
Frankly, what I can see of the paint wouldn't even be an OA bath candidate in my book. As...
And the finished bicycle (sans front wheel nuts because I don't have a single 5/16-32 and neither does my LHS). So of course I can't ride it yet for the silliest reason.
Completed wheels. 306mm Sapim race DB spokes and Panaracer GravelKing tires. Very pleased. Good thing, too, because y'all know the dough that goes into these wheelsets.
Oh man, I am looking for a blue Zep light (and rack) for my twin as well. I have a minty black on there as a placeholder if anybody knows of a blue one.
Alright, after a bit of hem-hawing, trying to find an original 28h hoop, and ultimately ordering some from Stutzman, we're back to working on the chainless.
Stutzman aluminum lined 700c. Beautiful as always. Now to make them look old.
Yes, yes. Now this gave me the perfect opportunity to use...
I just ordered up a pair of Gravel Kings, but I would like to throw one more style on here I may have gone with had they been in stock.
Teravail Rampart 700x38c
This isn't even to the point of needing an oxy bath. That is for bikes that have more rust showing through than paint color and this is not that. A little love and polish and this will look great.
Wow, thanks for the excellent reply! I do like those Gravel King and Barlow Pass is nice with the small logo. Really all of these are solid options depending on the bike and the look you want.
The old standbys are out of production, so what do you like these days for TOC bikes? I feel like teens-20s still have suitable options but the TOC bikes are more picky with what shoes they wear to look their age.
I was planning to get singletube hoops and Robert Deans for my Columbia...
Since it's been repainted, I'd just sand the paint off over the serial. Looks like an HP Snyder build and the serials around this era can be decoded easily. Looks like early postwar.
Woof--looks like somebody failed a river jump and just left it nose down. I'd start with cutting the top nut with a dremel. I'd be surprised if you don't have to cut the stem though. She's crusty.
I posted in the wanted listings, but I will mention here that I am looking for a solid, usable, 28 hole 28" wood hoop. The 36h rear was good but of course the uncommon 28h front was blown up.
I will be getting some Deans for this and the end goal is a rider. I may still end up getting Stutzman...
Unfortunately found one specialty piece missing--the expander to lock the seat post.
Hey, I know where I can find a wedge piece that should work.
From some Musselman guts I had laying around. Oh shoot, but the piece also needs to perfectly match the seatpost radius.
Heh, sometimes you...
Let me know length and I will send you old cadmium spokes for the cost of shipping. I have all varieties of 26" takeoffs and I can't imagine I don't have the correct size.
Just saw that you bought it on the Cabe. No intention to throw shade at anybody if they did buy it for the two-speed (though, it could have been gone for 30+ years at this point) :cool: I got my only DD kit from a New World and now it is on my Hawthorne 5-bar.
Nice bike! I've had a couple of these early New Worlds (still have a Maroon '41) and I love the way they ride. The forks on them seem to really absorb the road. A collector may have had it in the past and harvested the DD setup sans the shell. These shells bring some coin themselves because most...
Hey all, I've had these fenders going on forever and was wondering if anybody knew what they were for? They have distinct braces, the way they box in, so hopefully that can give some direction.
Thanks for any help.
Thanks! Judging by the spinning direction and logic, standard would have been my guess. The issue with removing from the back is that you still won't be able to fully disassemble it as the driveshaft can slide out the back, but not out the front. Without a rear wheel on, I could not hold the...
The plan was every nut and bolt, but the driveshaft was cranked on and I could not find any documentation denoting the thread orientation, so I didn't want to fight it and risk breaking a bevel tooth. Is the square nut inside the crank standard or reverse threaded?!
Removing the crank cover was fun. First of all, I wasn't confident of the thread orientation. Second, it was tight and likely never removed. I started using a punch but quickly realized that was a no-no as it was ovaling the pin-holes. Here's the tool I made of scrap wood, random seat post, and...
So I have had this project for 5 years and finally got the space to set up my workshop again. It was originally purchased by an out-of-state member here and I picked it up to ship as it was local to me. I offhandedly mentioned my interest in it, he later came back and said something came up and...
Agreed, and I would 100% be using stainless but the bike wears its original, worn finish everywhere else and shiny spokes would stick out like a sore thumb.
That's a Torrington aluminum stem. The other style, with the deco casting, is more recognizable, but this one was available too. It would not have been factory on a Schwinn, but it was a period accessory.
I want to make a rideable wheelset for my Columbia porcupine hubs by straightening out the j-hook on either new or vintage spokes. Has anybody done this? Any issues with breakage? The original spokes I have would be better served for a non-rider.
I'm not 100% sure I'm going to go this direction, but I thought I'd put the feelers out before contacting Noah Stutzman. Looking for a usable, straight, hoop only to outfit a 1899 Columbia.
I use #0000 steel wool and Mother's chrome polish. The Schwinn chrome in this era wasn't far behind auto quality, so it should come back sparkling with some work. Cleaning and repacking bearings is the best thing you can do to bring a bike back to life. Once you get the hang of how tight to set...
Well it is not budging and I don't plan on breaking anything on a 1-year only, 120 year old bicycle. The shaft spins smooth and the adjustment felt good when it was assembled--would oil bath be sufficient lubrication for these bearings? Reading the manual, it almost sounds like that's how it was...
I thought the same--reverse threading wouldn't seem correct considering the direction everything would be spinning. I will give it the old college try and report.
I scoured this thread when I first started and it helped a lot, but it doesn't answer the question I have regarding driveshaft removal. It's a fantastic resource though. I will shoot him my question via PM.
Edit: Oh it's you! My question is about the thread orientation on the square nut inside...
Rollfast serials for this era are the year reversed. 14=1941. I have a '41 with all the same parts including the 1/2" chainring. Too bad the front fender was replaced. I always love the reverse paint scheme.
I'm working on overhauling a Model 59 and I figured out how to disassemble most of it... I am down to the driveshaft bolt (square nut inside of bottom bracket). Does anybody recall the thread orientation on this nut? Better yet, I've seen some talk about a PDF of the full service book floating...
Sorry to resurrect an ancient thread, but it is in line with the topic. I am in the middle of a teardown/resurrection of my 1899 right now and I was wondering if anybody can recall the thread orientation of the driveshaft itself? I am looking to take the square nut inside the bottom bracket off...
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