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I have had these for several years, stored in my bonus room. I will let the photos speak for themselves. Briefly, both are 26". The mens is original frame paint scheme in base/clearcoat with a Columbia springer. I added the rack and Columbia fenders with custom graphic and dual fender lights...
All my bikes have Grand Tycoons. They do fine. I would bet the Felt Quick Bricks are faster because of the tread design (grooved versus diamond blocks). But speed is not an issue for me.
I have not convinced myself that those plastic coated hooks won't harm the paint on my wheels if I choose to hang the bike up. Anyone want to soothe my fears? I just don't want to end up with a mark or the plastic melting to them from deterioration over time. I thought about wrapping a rag...
They are older Shimano coaster 3-speeds. I have a Nexus twist shifter on the girls now which works in reverse pattern, added after pic. The boys is a trigger, also added after pic (the pic shows an older twist shifter for mockup). Sure makes them easy to ride in the real world.
Stripped to bare metal, accessories added as I saw fit, Columbia springer on the boys, original and custom paint schemes (not decals), custom colors, both converted to 3-speed coaster brakes. Boys has wide whitewalls now. Super nice. Located in Indianapolis.
Thanks guys. My carrier has some extra reflectors but I didn't see a housing for a light. If mine even had the options that the bike in the photo has, they were removed years ago. I guess frames came pre-drilled. The holes in my frame have never had a screw in them. They are tiny, maybe...
I have an old Super no tank, no headlight but everything else. I found this pic on ebay of a horn on the top bar. My top bar has two tiny holes drilled for this. Is it a horn?
Sand them well or sandblast them first, use etching primer and then a high build primer. Sand with 400 grit, apply color then clear. Should be good to go.
Such an easy fix. Put a piece of 3/4" solid wood inside the rim and then start tapping on the outside of the rim with a hammer. You can get it back in shape nice. Repeat on the other side. I have fixed plenty this way; the wood is the dolly. It may take more muscle than you think so slowly...
I think you are underestimating the potential of the chrome parts you have. Humor me and go to ACE Hardware. Buy a small container of Oxylic Acid (wood bleach), $7.00. Mix a 3 oz. per gallon of water concentration. Find a container that you can immerse your chrome parts in. If the rims...
Did anyone notice the "Engrish" translation? Pantyliver? I think they meant Cantilever. Hahaha, funny stuff.
http://bzkleta.multiply.com/photos/album/72
If you can find something like a narrow trough to set the wheel in, you can fill it with white vinegar and it will eat the rust. You'll have to turn the wheel to get another section submerged but over the course of a week it will work. If they are chrome rims, use oxylic acid (wood bleach)...
After reading alot on free-coaster.com and troubleshooters.com, I figured out that the problem was the clutch was not engaging the shell (too much slack). It required a cone adjustment. Still a little more fine tuning is needed but at least now I know the hub is fine.
Not sure. I think conventional wheel bearing grease.
The more I think about this, the more I think that the retarder spring needs to be tightened. Will fiddle with it tomorrow night some more.
Figured I would post this here just in case someone has solved this mystery before:
The hub is in great shape (original model coaster brake in the pic below). It is assembled correctly. I have had it apart twice now. When I have the wheel on the bench it seems to operate correctly. When I...
It is a Western Flyer made by the Cleveland Welding Company (CWC). It could have been a Hawthorne if Montgomery Ward sold it. I guess Western Auto sold this one. Bike is fixed and now ridden!
I have one Fisk Deluxe. I think it is a 50s-era balloon tire. It is in really good shape.
I have some others in blackwall: one Carlisle Lightning Dart, one Allstate Safety Tread and one Davis Deluxe, all 26 x 2.125.
I vote whitewalls.
I put blackwalls on one of my balloon bikes, the only restored one without whitewalls. I hated it. Put whitewalls on and it changed everything. Looking for a mostly-matching yellowed whitewall for my rusty bike now; I only have one. With the current blackwalls, I still...
If someone has "yellowed" a whitewall please pass that on as well. I need to do this. I like the stain idea.
I blended some Rustoleum into a rusty paintjob using a similar base color. I followed by mixing some dark red and black together into a rusty color. I scotchbrited the base color...
So far here is what is pending:
Both Bendix skiptooth hubs
Hawthorne Chainwheel
Everything else is on inquiry
I am trying to price items fairly. I am open to discussion. I would like to sell it all.
The worst that can happen is we cannot get together.
It is for a Bendix. It is a spare. There is a tiny nick right on the edge, about 1/16" x 1/16" that I cannot see a ball bearing even touching. However I want to be straight about it.
If anyone sees anything they want, please email. I have to figure out one shipping cost on the chain wheels. Everything else I can get quotes out quickly. Not looking to collect a fortune here.
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