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I know somebody has to have a dead Airdyne exerciser, or parted one out. I need the pictured pivot bolt. Holds the long handlebar pieces in place. This one broke off at the threads. For a guy I know who runs an indie gym. Whatcha got? Help me keep an old piece of American machinery from getting...
Strange that I should pop back onto the forum (first time in over a year, wow, where have I been) and see this. A picture of the winner and the bike itself was published in American Bicyclist in 1954. I have an original someplace, will be included in an upcoming book. Anyway, kid was from...
I'm pretty sure by '53 they had switched over to oval badges all around. Odds are your Phantom is a '52. With the guard, heck, I'd just leave it, the color scheme is correct and the patina is likely similar to the rest of the bike. Not that you asked, but since the rust is pretty deep and won't...
If those are Araya hoops, then those are going to be the most valuable part of the entire bike. BMX guys like those rims. The rest of the bike is Taiwan, late 80s or 1990s era. Good for kids to bash on, but in no way collectable.
Cheers, Geoff
Easiest solution is to buy a decent used headset. Aside from the opening size of the top nut, the dimensions didn't change. So a headset pirated from a 1970s era girl's Varsity will drop right in, just reuse your existing top cup. There should be a lot of decent used headsets floating around...
Wow, amazing bike. I'm both glad and ashamed that I missed out on that bike. I'm totally out of room, but what a score that would have been. True time capsule bike, well done.
Cheers, Geoff
It reminds me of the tanks used on the Stelber bikes. Had a 20" wheel Greyhound that had similar pinstripe treatment on the tank. Not sure if it's the same, but it'll give you something to google I suppose.
Cheers, Geoff
As to why the are marked both 1.75 and S-7, guessing those were early tires, mid 1950s. The early middleweight catalogs indicate 1.75 tires as well as S-7 rims. The 1 3/4 marking was likely created soon thereafter to reduce the confusion about tire sizes.
Cheers, Geoff
Mid to late 1960s. Same pedals as used on Schwinn bikes, just minus the stamping. Looks like full length blocks, so used on basic to mid-range bikes, Sting-Rays, whatever middleweights weren't using bow pedals, maybe Cycle Truck.
Cheers, Geoff
Unless the original bearings are roached, there's really no point in replacing them. I'd stick with the original American made bearings instead of taking the time to replace them with what will almost surely be Chinese balls. That said, if they're roached, your LBS will have loose bearings in...
Nice score. Clean it up, grease it, ride it. Judging by the gouge in the chainguard the right crank might be bent in, or the guard might have been loose at one point. Looks like a solid start.
Cheers, Geoff
Solid score. Great lines on those Ross bikes. Hard as heck to find a decent one. On the vague hunt for a Marlin myself, or one of the tank cruisers that used the same lines.
Cheers, Geoff
Unless the original BB is shot, just clean and re-use all the parts. The quick and easy way is to spray the ball cages down with WD-40, scrub them across rags / towels to clean the bearings. Unless bearings are dull or physically damaged, the original ones will be just fine.
Although it's...
Sweet pressed steel Wald stem on that bad boy. Plus that rad chainguard and fenders. And what I would bet are generic wheels. And of course the invisible front drum brake. Repaint looks pretty decent at least.
Hope the engine bits aren't as rigged as the bike part.
Cheers, Geoff
Find a small wood screw with fairly fine threads that comes to a decent point. Gently turn it in between the key nub and the lock body. It doesn't take much, use a bit of pressure but don't force it. Then yank screw straight back. This often extracts the key nub. Here's how it works: The...
Yes, it's a reproduction. Looks like the seat and the rear tire have been switched out. Rear tire looks to be a Tioga, which is going to be a fast riding tire. The neat thing about this bike, and why you should buy it, is that someone has gone through the trouble and expense of lacing up a...
Fork won't work, the fork shown is a lightweight fork for 27" wheels. Guard will work. If you want to run multiple speeds (front derailleur comment) then you can built a drum brake wheel for the rear around a modern Sturmey Archer drum brake hub, they come in all different configurations...
Found a clipping about the kid that won that bike. Actual bike wasn't a straightbar. Kid lived in New York, I want to say Brooklyn. Can't imagine it lasted long in the city. Or perhaps it's still there forgotten in some brownstone basement.
Cheers, Geoff
Nope. Gotta be 1020 size middleweight brakes. Lightweight ones aren't long enough to reach the rim. Kickstand for that bike is super common, any Schwinn middleweight 26" wheel bike will have the same kickstand, 1950s through 1970s.
Cheers, Geoff
Not worth the $300, but it does have frame / fork / guard in original paint. Strip off the fenders and tank (scrap fenders, sell tank), slap on some fatty tires, would make a sweet rat. Offer him $150.
Cheers, Geoff
Wow, odd that two would show up with the same strange set-up. Yes, 1020 is the correct size. Try to track down a couple metal cable clips to route the housing along the top tube and it'll look stock.
Cheers, Geoff
Should be an easy add-on. Likely the bike came from the factory with a 2 speed Bendix Manual shift hub and then the rear wheel was switched out without also installing a rear brake. I bet there's marks on the left chain stay from where a brake strap used to be. The rear 1020s are easier to find...
What condition were the brake shoes in? Overly worn brake shoes would allow the excess travel described. And it seems that a CycleTruck would be subject to greater loads and thus more brake wear. The old brass brake shoes are prone to this.
Cheers, Geoff
The DX frame came in different configurations. Around '48 you could get the DX style frame with the same equipment level (though with standard fork) as the blue bike above. Not a fancy bike, but solid. In the same year one could also purchase a DX style frame with budget bars, seat, pedals...
Whitewalls on white painted rims tend to wash out, they just don't pop. The stock tires on the OP's bike will get the job done, for sure. What I was trying to say, is that light weight performance balloon tires would be a decent way to add a bit more pep to the bike. And since it isn't a 1940s...
Good score. That's one of the better repop ones. Early style springer, chrome tank, good pedals, all kinds of good stuff there. Clean it up and ride it. If you want to make it really rip, toss on some lightweight ballooner tires, the Tioga Powerblocks in 26" weigh almost nothing and will pump up...
Yes. Meteor was one year only model, 1953. In my experience, they often turn up configured slightly differently from the catalog specs. What ring and guard style are on the one you're looking at?
Cheers, Geoff
It's a Roadmaster / AMF. Mid to late 1960s. Model is AMFlite. Some of the AMFlite bikes were set up like yours (banana seat and high riser bars) and some were set up like conventional bikes. Not sure how yours was originally configured. Looks like a fun ride.
Cheers, Geoff
Strange. Stewart Warner went to 0-30 around '53, then switched back to 0-50 in '54. The only 0-40 unit I've seen were rebranded for Sears and such, but had the later plastic cases. Looks like mid-1950s style metal case and face.
Cheers, Geoff
And then if you want to really go all the way, pick up some alloy 26" hoops to lace the modern hubs up to. Some of the rims intended for use with disc brake hubs have a profile similar to the prewar drop centers. If you look into modern hoops, be aware that there's 36 hole and 32 hole versions...
I'd put the value a bit higher, S-2 hoops front and rear, an oddball model from a specific era. I'd say it's collectable, but not wildly collectable. The BMX cross-over bikes are sort of a niche thing, but if someone had one as a kid, then it would be a valuable thing. $200 to the right buyer...
If you want the versatility of a 3 speed hub, go with one of the new Sturmeys with the integrated drum brake. 3 speeds and a drum, pretty rad. 70mm is the standard version, the heavy duty one has a 90mm drum brake, which is awesome. Run a 90mm drum hub up front, you're good to go. Given...
I'll concur with previous posters. Around $100 in most areas. With a bike like that, I also see a whole lot of work that needs to be done. Dry brake pads, bearings that haven't seen grease since it left the factory. A nice bike, but most folks can't appreciate it for what it is.
Cheers, Geoff
Oh man, I remember that shop. Crap, I must have imprinted on that place when I was young, that explains quite a lot about my life right now. That place was overflowing with old bikes and parts, like snowdrifts of metal. Man, given a time machine, that would be one of the places I would visit...
D-12 Unequipped with added upgrade springer. Looks like the stock sweetheart ring was swapped out for the smaller girl's style ring at some point, which would certainly make the bike easier to pedal.
Nice score.
Cheers, Geoff
The '51 Goodrich cat shows same wide boy's style bars. The '51 X-mas Goodrich cat shows bike with Phantom ring, otherwise the same. And the '52 Goodrich cat shows the bike with the sweetheart ring again. The cats likely aren't 100% correct.
The BFG models usually used the same rings as their...
The '49 and '50 Goodrich catalogs show the OP's bike with the 26 x 8 swept back bars. I agree that these bars would look better. This bike looks to be the Challenger model. Although the Challenger for these years came with a deluxe style guard instead of the feather style. And a Challenger decal...
Beautiful looking bike. The peanut tank ones are a rare breed.
Here's the nit-picky stuff that I'm seeing. Fork looks slightly bent, an easy straightening job with the right tools. Fenders don't look quite right. Aftermarket? The struts on the rear one look like they are attached at the axle...
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