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It would be helpful if you posted the serial number. 36 and earlier had an offset bottom bracket which is very obvious if you flip the bike upside down. The serial number will probably start with an A or B. It doesn't have the earliest style chainring which may point to it being a 37.
Hi Brett,
I'm taking another look at your original post and looking at the fork steering tube as it stands. You mentioned that the fork is original to the bike but is this actually the case? I thought that the g519 had Incorporated truss rod standoffs. Perhaps it was also equipped with a plate...
I believe the correct measurement from the bottom of the lower fork race to the top of the steering tube is approximately 6 1/2" to 6 5/8". I gather you are grafting an already threaded tube section on. Optimally this is long enough to get the weld join below the level of the stem wedge...
Beautiful bike Bob looks to me like a 1935 model. If it's a 1935 that would be the first year for the streamline wishbone frame. Having had a 1935 model I know that the two top double bars are narrower for this first year. That would make that tank one year only.
I've seen the tank version badged Roadmaster, Aero King, Western Flyer, and Hawthorne. Firestone sold the frame style at least badged as a Fleetwood although I'm not sure they optioned the tank. There are undoubtedly a few other badged variations.
The earlier double bar frame 35-37ish the gap between the double bars is narrower and no tank was made. Later double bars have the wide spacing like yours, and a tank was made but it is as others say very scarce
Very nice SW Floating Hub up for DOND!
This was earmarked for a Pacemaker project but wasn't needed at the last minute. The outer plates are quite good as shown and have been media blasted in preparation for chroming. All parts are excellent mechanically~ That means the threads, races, lock...
Trying to get the assembly procedure down for this Rollfast Snyder springer fork in preparation for a realignment. This is the closed type and I can't understand how you would get the hub/rocker/bushing assembly in without brute force, much less with a wheel and tire laced onto the hub...
Sorting out a bunch of mixed up hub parts and wondering if these axles look familiar to anyone. They have a 10x1mm metric thread, one square end and a lock washer slot on the other. From a multi-speed internal hub I'm guessing. The six axles on the left have some different features as shown...
If the first three threads were damaged to begin with hoping to correctly start the die is optimistic. Using a thread file is definitely the way to go in a situation like this.
Message me with your bearing needs and questions. I had hoped that posting the charts would be helpful but I do admit they can be confusing.
These are also cross posted in my eBay store and have more specific application info there.
https://www.ebay.com/str/fleetwingflyerco
I have a number of these high quality hubs I'm trying to identify. I suspect postwar English or German made. They are generally unmarked save this Schwinn approved version Mark IV 36h. More typically the ones I've found are sporting the cross hatched brake arm with no other external markings...
Torrington was probably not marking at least the pedals that they supplied to manufacturers at this point to save costs. They are likely og to the bike. I don't know this for sure but they're probably not rebuildable, and the snap rings certainly makes it difficult to service them. Luckily the...
Special Cabe offering of hard to find new old stock retainer bearings! These are mainly for front and rear hubs although the #5's also fit pedals by Persons, most Torrington, and Wald.
Typically (but not always) retainer bearings are stamped with both manufacturer and #. These standardized...
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