Want To Make My Royal Scot Look Nice

[Romario]

Some parts of the bike, like the mudguards are really rusty, more than 50% of the paint is gone, especially on the top. I am thinking of what to do with them.

 

[Dale Alan]

Feeding the paint is a good step when it has a cloudy or chalky appearance. After polishing, if the paint still looks cloudy, it is due to the oils have evaporated out of the paint. The automotive pros use some pricey products for dry enamels that is hard to justify for a bike frame and baby oil is a good alternative. As a bonus, it helps soften the paint somewhat making the polishing step a little easier.

Great info,thanks. I will surely be giving this a try,I have many chalky bikes .I have tried a few things that helped for a short time before becoming chalky again.

 

[Gasbag]

Some parts of the bike, like the mudguards are really rusty, more than 50% of the paint is gone, especially on the top. I am thinking of what to do with them.

I would suggest first trying to clean up what is there, it is sometimes surprising how well they will clean up. If the paint on the fenders and chain guard are beyond saving, clean up the paint on the frame and forks and try matching the gloss of the paint you purchase to repaint them.

 

[Gasbag]

Great info,thanks. I will surely be giving this a try,I have many chalky bikes .I have tried a few things that helped for a short time before becoming chalky again.

The key is after getting the paint to where you want it, to use a top quality sealer to protect it from degrading. I use Wolfgang sealant which is pricey, but it is what I use on my cars so I already have it on hand.

 

[Romario]

Ok, so I am taking apart the 3-speed sturmey-archer gear on the back wheel and there is a round part with two notches, not sure what's it's name. I tried to unscrew it by hitting at the notches with no success.

Is there a tool I can use? I see this on sturmey-archer website - http://www.sturmey-archer.com/en/products/detail/htr145 , is this the right tool?

Here is the diagram:
https://sheldonbrown.com/sturmey-archer/images/sprint7.gif

Maybe there is a compatible tool or something else I could use.

 

[Romario]

Also, the bearings that I see seem like one is missing, there is a noticeable gap roughly the size of one bearing. Is it ok or I need to replace the bearings so the whole ring is full?

 

[bulldog1935]

if you can fit another ball, there may be one missing, but it's also possible they just need enough grease to fill the gaps
Best bet, identify the size and replace all the balls

 

[Andrew Gorman]

I'd just spring for the right tool:
https://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_...k+ring++spanner&rh=i:aps,k:lock+ring++spanner
For the loose balls, the rule of thumb is to fill the race with balls, then take one out so you are fine. Ball bearings are cheap, so just replace them all. I've never seen an AW hub with bad races.

 

[SirMike1983]

I think you're talking about the 'ball ring'- the threaded, dish-type part that screws into the hub shell itself on the drive side.

Inside the ball ring should be 24 bearing balls of 3/16 inch each. There should be a space- this is by design. The space prevents the ball ring from binding on the race of the driver. These get coated with grease, as do all the ball bearing areas in the hub. The innards of the hub (gears, cages, pins, pawls, etc) get oil and NOT grease. This way, the oil keeps the innards free, while the grease keeps the bearings running smoothly.

Older ball rings have square notches, while newer ones (1970s and onward? I don't recall when they switched) have rounded notches. For the rounded notch ones, you want the classic type spanner tool. For the squard notch, they made a C-spanner, but you could also use a hammer and punch to turn the ball ring out. Remember to tighten it all the way back down when you put it back in.

http://www.sturmey-archerheritage.com/files/view-837.pdf

 

[Romario]

Thanks, SirMike, I have square notches, I tried hammering it out with no success. I didn't have a good punch though, might try it with some penetrating oil or other things I have to get rusty/stuck bolts out.

Do you by any chance know the size of C-spanner? The originals are hard to find.