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Boiled Linseed oil vs. waxes (or a mix) as bare metal sealant?

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wspeid

Finally riding a big boys bike
I've over-read and researched myself into a state of indecision; hopefully some voices of experience could compare/contrast in a nutshell for me...

My pre-war Dayton handle bars have no trace of the original plating, just a pitted, rust-free metal patina I'd like to preserve/protect. Some recommend sealants of boiled linseed oil, others say bees wax, some mix the oil and waxes, and others say more contemporary car waxes are the way to go.

What would you use if this was yours? Would you use the same on the frame where I've got original paint (and areas of the copper/cyanide wash patina) as well?

Thanks.

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waxoyl, and not the black one. It is what the English car enthusiasts use to stop their cars from rusting. Errrrrrr, on second thought... Never mind.
 
Secret tip shhhh!

Gun oil called G-96, this product is harder to find but the absolute best oil treatment I've found, safe on all parts including paint.
 
I've over-read and researched myself into a state of indecision; hopefully some voices of experience could compare/contrast in a nutshell for me...

My pre-war Dayton handle bars have no trace of the original plating, just a pitted, rust-free metal patina I'd like to preserve/protect. Some recommend sealants of boiled linseed oil, others say bees wax, some mix the oil and waxes, and others say more contemporary car waxes are the way to go.

What would you use if this was yours? Would you use the same on the frame where I've got original paint (and areas of the copper/cyanide wash patina) as well?

Thanks.

View attachment 85712


wspeid ... after a good, non-abrasive washing in soap and water .. followed by a wipe-down with
denatured alcohol ... you might consider multiple coats of Krylon, Clear, Matte Spray Finish.


Werks fer me .....

..... patric


Krylon-Matte-Finish-1311.jpg
 
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