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really grimy, rusty neglected chains

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Mickey2

'Lil Knee Scuffer
I am repairing a single speed ladies bike (1963). It's not a major restoration, but more of a repair and fixup. Initially I thought the chain was ruined. No regular chain cleaning dissolved the layers of dirt and rust, not even white spirit, but after two days in a bottle with WD40 it came out surprisingly clean. Those 8-shaped links are now a bluish metal, and hardly any traces of rust at all elsewhere, and it doesn't look too worn for further use. This cleaning was probably not worth it costwise, as a new chain would be about the same as the different cleaners and oils involved to get it clean. I started with undiluted dishwasher soap and hot water, then turned to a bio chain cleaner, then white spirit, then WD40; so it was a sort of trial and error approach. It was really hard to get the stuck on grime and rust off, sand included. I should probably have gone for WD40 straight a way (or something equivalent), two overnight baths of this stuff and it was clean (new oil and bottle the next night). I used almost an entire large can though. Have any of you found a cost effective way to clean really old difficult dirt?
 
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I am repairing a single speed ladies bike (1963). It's not a major restoration, but more of a repair and fixup. Initially I thought the chain was ruined. No regular chain cleaning dissolved the layers of dirt and rust, not even white spirit, but after two days in a bottle with WD40 it came out surprisingly clean. Those 8-shaped links are now a bluish metal, and hardly any traces of rust at all elsewhere, and it doesn't look too worn for further use. This cleaning was probably not worth it costwise, as a new chain would be about the same as the different cleaners and oils involved to get it clean. I started with undiluted dishwasher soap and hot water, then turned to a bio chain cleaner, then white spirit, then WD40; so it was a sort of trial and error approach. It was really hard to get the stuck on grime and rust off, sand included. I should probably have gone for WD40 straight a way (or something equivalent), two overnight baths of this stuff and it was clean (new oil and bottle the next night). I used almost an entire large can though. Have any of you found a cost effective way to clean really old difficult dirt?

I usually scrub with Simple Green, and rinse first, dry... see what I have . then if needs more, I use liquid stripper or something that has Tri-chlorethelene(sp). The latter two are real toxic, so gloves and lots of good ventilation are a must. aka use at own risk!!! it will melt hard plastic brushes!! Nasty stuff!!! (insert skull and crossbones here) ..think it fried my sinuses and brain.
 
I throw chains FIRST in a tin of gasoline, (about 50 cents worth) for a couple hours to a couple weeks, depending on the hurry. Afterward I put it in a plastic jar (with lid) with a 50/50 mix of degreaser and water and shake it up and let it soak repeatedly. Don't leave in this solution for more than a couple hours, as all degreasers have acid and will discolor (or worse) the steel.
 
So tri-chlorethelene and gasoline; I have to try it. It's not often a chain is this difficult to clean luckily. I don't know what tri-chlorethelene is really, but gasoline and white spirit are related petroleum distillates? I always thought of white spririt as the thinnest of them and the most effective solvent. I suppose they might have different properties as a cleaner though. White spirit worked, but not very effective; I should probably have rinsed the chain and let it seep yet another night in white spirit. WD40 was oddly effective at dissolving and drawing out rust and grime from within the links. I wonder what it's made of to be that effective. I would happily try different bio options too. A tip I was given by a friend was to soak in citrus solvent, then wash of in hot water with wasing powder for white fabrics? Grime really sticks to a chain when left dirty and neglected for 20 years in a garage.
 
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I didnt know tricloroethyline was available to the public. I worked at a chrome plating company for a while and that is what we used to clean the parts just before the chrome process. Tri-chlor as we called it, is very nasty stuff and I personally would not risk using it at home. We had lots of neutralize agent on hand and emergency resparators if needed right next to the machine.
 
I buy pb blaster in the gallon can

use and old coffee can with a lid and let them soak. after they are all worked out and cleaned with a wire brass hand brush, I use brake cleaner and then used to oil but now will try some new chain stuff I got off ebay on a recomendation- wax not grease or oil cause it does not hold dirt (that is the pitch anyway)
 
There are a number of solvents that will do the job. I personally would not use chemical strippers. For grease, simple green or citrus based degreasers work well using the coffee can method. For rust, gasoline, oil, or kerosene will do it. An acid bath as suggested or lye bath (Drain Opener) will also work.
 
Thanks guys for your thoughts on the subject. It's important to get new ideas for simple stuff like this too now and then. I suppose there is no point in cleaning a chain if it costs too much or if it is too harsh on the environment. This particular chain was unusually stubborn to get clean. What can be very difficult is to get the rings between the links to move smothly again once they have stuck, and I am still surpriced how effective some of the thin spray-can oils dissolve dried up oil and grime. I might get a large can of this kind of stuff! However, gasoline and lye is probably the most cost effective if they work as well.
 
First I soak the chain in gasoline to get the heavy, greasy stuff off. Then I put the chain in an ultrasonic cleaning tank with a mild phosphoric acid solution to remove any rust and deep clean in all the joints. Lightly wiping down the chain with a scotch-bright pad while in the solution will make the chain shine. I've had chains that were a solid mass that most people would think are not salvageable and turned them into good looking functional chains.
 
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