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  1. #1
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    Default New Departure hub questions


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    hello all

    putting together a wheel set for my Manton and Smith, and I'm thinking about running New Departure hubs front & rear along with some drop-center rims. Never having had or used a ND hub, I have a couple of questions:

    a) the ND front hub looks like its almost identical to the same period (i.e. non-model 200) Schwinn front hub; are they related?

    b) I see that Memory Lane sells brand new ND hubs; are these original, or did they make a run of these for the Western Flyer repros that came out some tme back? I guess I could always ask them, now that I think about it.....

    c) how does a ND single-speed coatser rear hub compare to the same spec Bendix (I think the model is RB2)? I've run a few of the Bendix hubs, and I find them bullet-proof, with good braking; kind of important when you have no front brake I find.

    And if anyone knows what a late 40's / early 50's M&S would have come with hub-wise I'd love to hear!

    any info appreciated


    greg v.

  2. #2
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    Quote Originally Posted by gregv View Post
    hello all

    putting together a wheel set for my Manton and Smith, and I'm thinking about running New Departure hubs front & rear along with some drop-center rims. Never having had or used a ND hub, I have a couple of questions:

    a) the ND front hub looks like its almost identical to the same period (i.e. non-model 200) Schwinn front hub; are they related?

    b) I see that Memory Lane sells brand new ND hubs; are these original, or did they make a run of these for the Western Flyer repros that came out some tme back? I guess I could always ask them, now that I think about it.....

    c) how does a ND single-speed coatser rear hub compare to the same spec Bendix (I think the model is RB2)? I've run a few of the Bendix hubs, and I find them bullet-proof, with good braking; kind of important when you have no front brake I find.

    And if anyone knows what a late 40's / early 50's M&S would have come with hub-wise I'd love to hear!

    any info appreciated


    greg v.
    Memory Lane sells rechromed ND hubs. There are no such repops. The front hubs vary in condition from them. The chrome is always good, but they rechrome anything that is servicable, regardless of outside condition. The last W hub I got from them was chromed over such badly pitted metal that you could hardly see the script. Another thing to watch for is the cones. They didn't have W cones so they just put WL cones on them. the WL cones are too small and will fail. Ask which cones they put on the hub before you order one. The rear ones are pretty much the standard on most ballooners. They work as well as anything else out there, plus if you burn up the discs, you just replace them, instead of replacing the whole hub like you'd have to do on others(the wearing surface on most hubs is the shell itself), which requires breaking down the wheel and re-lacing, etc.
    They're easy to work on, and parts are readilly available. Plus the only service the rears require is once a year or so, topping up the oil in the filler with 20wt.
    With discs, they are a lot like automobiles- if you ride in areas with steep hills and you ride your brake a lot on the declines, they will fade and not work well until they cool down again. That's the only thing that I've ever noticed to watch for. Otherwise they're my favorite hub.

  3. #3
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    AntonyR

    thanks for the info, much appreciated.

    So what is the difference between a model W, WD, and WL? Is there a particular type I should look for? I will more than likely end up running 14 or 15 gauge stainless spokes.

    thanks!

    greg v.

  4. #4
    TigerCat Guest

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    I bought a front and rear a couple of weeks ago. The rear was a nice rechrome but the front had been chromed over some pits. I guess it's not as bad as some. I wish I'd known about the cone issue. Is it really obvious that they're too small ?

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by AntonyR View Post
    With discs, they are a lot like automobiles- if you ride in areas with steep hills and you ride your brake a lot on the declines, they will fade and not work well until they cool down again. That's the only thing that I've ever noticed to watch for. Otherwise they're my favorite hub.
    hello again AntonyR

    I was re-reading this, and just digested the whole fade issue you mention; this seems opposite to how my Bendix hubs work, as both the RB2 and the manually-shifted 2spd coaster I run get grippier and "snatchy" as they heat up, i.e. they actually start grabbing better as heat gets in them. They get a lot touchier as well though, you really have to use a carfeul foot pressure, and work them with a soft pulsing action or they lock and fry your tire. I remember heating up my RB2 on a very long and steep downhill to the point that the grease completely liquified and starting running out the various dust covers etc....

    gv

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    Quote Originally Posted by gregv View Post
    AntonyR

    thanks for the info, much appreciated.

    So what is the difference between a model W, WD, and WL? Is there a particular type I should look for? I will more than likely end up running 14 or 15 gauge stainless spokes.

    thanks!

    greg v.
    The W is the standard front hub, the WL is the lighter duty hub that was used on some base model bikes and what would be considered middle weights back then. The bearings and cones are smaller in the WL, and are not interchangeable with the W(the WL cone will thread onto the axle, but the outer dust cover doesn't cover the W bearing completely, and binds the ball carrier.). The WD has an integrated brake(front).
    Stick with the W, unless you want a front brake, then go with the WD.
    Big spokes means drilling the spoke holes larger(unless you find a HD hub that's already sporting larger holes...).

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by TigerCat View Post
    I wish I'd known about the cone issue. Is it really obvious that they're too small ?
    Definitely.

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by gregv View Post
    hello again AntonyR

    I was re-reading this, and just digested the whole fade issue you mention; this seems opposite to how my Bendix hubs work, as both the RB2 and the manually-shifted 2spd coaster I run get grippier and "snatchy" as they heat up, i.e. they actually start grabbing better as heat gets in them. They get a lot touchier as well though, you really have to use a carfeul foot pressure, and work them with a soft pulsing action or they lock and fry your tire. I remember heating up my RB2 on a very long and steep downhill to the point that the grease completely liquified and starting running out the various dust covers etc....

    gv
    Heat expands, so that's the 'grabbing' reason. Of course, there will be people that swear that Bendix is the best, or Morrow is the best, etc. It's just personal preference...

  9. #9
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    AntonyR

    thanks again for all the info, you've helped me out a great deal.

    Checking Sheldon Brown's site, 14 gauge works out to .080", and 15 gauge to .072"; I believe that these hubs will take 0.080", is this incorrect?

    Again, thanks for all the info, I look forward to trying out a pair of these hubs!

    cheers

    greg v.

  10. #10
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    95% are standard hubs, and take 80s. The other 5% are heavy duty using 105 or more.(worksman or motorized). Just plan on buying 10 5/8 long, 80 gauge(a lot of people just refer to the .080 as "80 gauge" eventhough it's not the correct term)...

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