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Straightening my wood rims

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Nick-theCut

I live for the CABE
I keep thinking about doing this, and today I started the process.
Here's my rim
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I went to Home Depot and grabbed some wood planks (about 30" long), bolts, washers, and wing nuts.
I created this
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I later changed the assembly so that the inner two layers squeeze the rim flush.
It should work.
Design improvements would probably be longer pieces, and a third vertical row.

So this idea came from the Wheelman website.
I wrapped the rim in towels
a9uharas.jpg

Then generously pour boiling water over the towels.
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Then some more
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Directions were to let it soak a good amount. I decided that meant for about 30 minutes with a reheated pour at about 15 mins to keep steamy.
Surprisingly when I unwrapped them they weren't soaking wet.
I put the rim in my vice and tightened down.

Once it was tight, I put it in my shower for a 10 min steam bath
juvu5ugy.jpg

Now I'm just leaving it in my bathroom, as it feels like Florida in August.

I'll check it in a week. Maybe I'll rotate it and do a little more. ???

It mentions this can work when warping is horizontal, not so good for vertical problems.

I think if you can get it close, a good wheel builder can take you the rest of the way.

The most important step so far you should know is this type of work is best when done with a beer
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I took it out of the brace today.
I the process truely works.

Here were my results:

yhy8emyh-1.jpg

yhure7e2-1.jpg


My design really only applied pressure to two sides of the rim. Since it went so well, I'm going to rotate it and repeat the process.
These are clincher rims, so worth the effort for me. I hope this inspires you guys to straighten out your rims for riding or display.


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Nice Job!!!!!

My version: I spun wheel in laundry tub filled with hot water (10 min.), then brought it into shower with me (20 min.) then laid it against a 700c wheel and wound wood rim to complete wheel with sturdy string. Let sit a day, then showered with it wound to wheel (20 min.). Then let dry thoroughly (week)? same results. If have a stubborn area, strap that area to wheel then sandwich pipe insulation to wheel where wood wheel is more straight. This will pull more on the stubborn area.:cool:
 
I think of this as the wood tennis racket method - works a charm when you add steam! Best of luck and I look forward to see the final result ..... Many many thanks for sharing as this is a frequent need for those of us with wooden rims. Beer is a must with this methods in order to obtain optimal results!
 
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Wood rims

Would you seal the wood after to keep them straight or leave them alone? A wood wheel rookie
 
Would you seal the wood after to keep them straight or leave them alone? A wood wheel rookie

I won't be, but doesn't mean it isn't good or ok for the rim. In the past I have used a wood hardner. It made it darker in color and shiny. I want to keep the antique look. Others have stained them, or even painted them. All ok for the wood. If I find something to gently moisturize the exterior to help prevent cracking, I may do that.
Once the rim is laced and trued the wood should keep its shape.
Ex. I've never come across a warped wood wheel that has proper spoke tension.
 
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I understand completely Nick. But as an FYI....I have done quite a bit of research on this subject - as I was manufacturing wood bicycle rims myself. Penetrating oil is the best feed for wooden rims and what would have been orig applied to the old rims ( for those that were not Painted - as a good portion of the old rims were all painted and striped. There were tremendous variations in painting styles on these rims and you can even ID the old rim if there is enough paint left to see the paint pattern. One wheel company even based the selling of their bicycle on the Vermillion colour of their wooden rims. When I was manufacturing wood bicycle rims I always recommended OSMO products. Re-application is only needed as a top up and only required after a year or two depending on how you ride. Other options are any kind of Tung oil or Spar finish. This said - I have not used it on a TOC wheel restoration - but I too will be attempting this in the next couple of weeks and will let you know the outcome.

Very Very nice clinchers by the way!!!

My question is - will you ride yours Nick? I am not so sure I would trust mine to hold up - but I guess once you have them re-stung you would know one way or the other. Look forward to the finished product.
 
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I have a pair of wood rims, in good shape with very little warping. Don't think at this point that I have to steam/ hot water them. Have been thinking of using turpentine & boiled linseed oil as a penetrant, eventually followed by adding spar varnish to the mix. These are commonly used in exterior rustic wood work, any thoughts?
 
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