abe lugo
I live for the CABE
So i see there was a hub,bub about polishing paint on another post. Anyhow, i have had to polish paint out of necessity to match paint on some car projects, also after having to clear over parts, cut the clear and polish the haze out to a shine.
I basically use the 3m liquid rubbing compound and 3m glaze. People usually use cloth diapers for polishing, it just used some of the white wally world clean up rags.
These will run you about. 25.00 each, but they are professional products and will last a while.
I saw that orange bike turned bright red in that other post and though to myself, i've done before, but not to a whole bike at once.
I do however have some red fenders that were burned/oxidized to orange.
First I dusted the fender and wiped a spot off, i really dont think i need to save the stripes, but i'll keep the polishing between the stripes.
I gave the fender a few dabs of the polishing liquid, wipe it on, let if lightly haze. Then start rubbing.
About twenty good rubs, take a look. Give it another go. You will notice the top coat start to soften and rub away, dont try to polish to a shine, if you see some haze or fading dont worry about it. The main thing is to try and lightly cut out or polish out the oxidized layer and start to expose the next clean layer.
When you get an even color, then you can use the 3M glaze to polish the piece to a shine, it will give a deep glossy look, almost a true wet look.
After that you can go in and hit it with a wax to protect the paint.
This just my take, that piece of fender was like five mins or less of polishing.
So the basic gist, use good product.
Be light at first, try not to burn through, thought original paint is usually thick enough to take a polishing.
The rubbing compound liquid cuts the layers and cleans the paint.
The glaze shines and polishes hazing out, more as a final step.
I recommend waxing last, but i didn't in these images.
The 3m product might be available online or at a local paint jobber.
I basically use the 3m liquid rubbing compound and 3m glaze. People usually use cloth diapers for polishing, it just used some of the white wally world clean up rags.
These will run you about. 25.00 each, but they are professional products and will last a while.
I saw that orange bike turned bright red in that other post and though to myself, i've done before, but not to a whole bike at once.
I do however have some red fenders that were burned/oxidized to orange.
First I dusted the fender and wiped a spot off, i really dont think i need to save the stripes, but i'll keep the polishing between the stripes.
I gave the fender a few dabs of the polishing liquid, wipe it on, let if lightly haze. Then start rubbing.
About twenty good rubs, take a look. Give it another go. You will notice the top coat start to soften and rub away, dont try to polish to a shine, if you see some haze or fading dont worry about it. The main thing is to try and lightly cut out or polish out the oxidized layer and start to expose the next clean layer.
When you get an even color, then you can use the 3M glaze to polish the piece to a shine, it will give a deep glossy look, almost a true wet look.
After that you can go in and hit it with a wax to protect the paint.
This just my take, that piece of fender was like five mins or less of polishing.
So the basic gist, use good product.
Be light at first, try not to burn through, thought original paint is usually thick enough to take a polishing.
The rubbing compound liquid cuts the layers and cleans the paint.
The glaze shines and polishes hazing out, more as a final step.
I recommend waxing last, but i didn't in these images.
The 3m product might be available online or at a local paint jobber.
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