Rust pitting HELP!!!!!

Alright Ive wire brushed my 1937 Shelby frame, I then used naval jelly 3 times, the last of time it was on there for an hour! its mostly clean but they are some spots that are black in the pits that I cant seem to get out. Can I just bondo over these areas? or is there some other method to getting these deeper rust pits? ive included some before and after photos for reference.

From my experience media blast, high-build primer, polyester filler as needed. IMO catalyzed primers and fillers are generally a better choice.
Go lighter with the primer and paint at the dropouts and other fitment areas to help avoid cracking/lifting/peeling.

Edubs said:

Alright Ive wire brushed my 1937 Shelby frame, I then used naval jelly 3 times, the last of time it was on there for an hour! its mostly clean but they are some spots that are black in the pits that I cant seem to get out. Can I just bondo over these areas? or is there some other method to getting these deeper rust pits? ive included some before and after photos for reference.

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Elbow grease potentially available at your local immigrant for hire stop.. steel wire brushing into those pits . Most of the black is neutralized rust from the acid,, and ya gotta be sure and wash it [acid] off, completely out of those pits with an alkaline and distilled water. perhaps some type of gelatin alkalized soak fer a few minutes to neutralize the acid cause that'll kick off the rusting again. The acid can remain in every teeny tiny microscopic knick, crack and corner unless it's neutralized. . Out of any tubes it may have gotten too, too. Acid likes to eat from the inside out, even more when not sealed by paint. ..


Funny thought: I dipped some 40's-60's Schwinn's, 20" for stingray and a few 10 speeds. restored completely in 60's, I didn't neutralize inside the tubes, I'm pretty sure they're dust now.

My first restoration, like my first car restoration, was "baptism with fire". It was a 1963 Columbia Torpedo and I initially had to fill in a ton of pits in the tank, a pin hole in the bottom of the tank, the rear wheel had so many large deep pits I had to junk it, the same for the fender braces.

What you have doesn't look too hard to fix at all compared to what I had to deal with at the age of 13. I would use a maybe a Dremel grind stone to clean out and even out those tiny little pits, then wash it and dry it thoroughly and use body filler has needed.

From the looks of what you started with, you're lucky to not have anything worse, say holes! :eek:

rustjunkie said:

From my experience media blast, high-build primer, polyester filler as needed. IMO catalyzed primers and fillers are generally a better choice.
Go lighter with the primer and paint at the dropouts and other fitment areas to help avoid cracking/lifting/peeling.

Click to expand...

I was going to take the chain ring and a few other parts in anyway for blasting as I dont have access to one.

Jeff54 said:

Elbow grease potentially available at your local immigrant for hire stop.. steel wire brushing into those pits . Most of the black is neutralized rust from the acid,, and ya gotta be sure and wash it [acid] off, completely out of those pits with an alkaline and distilled water. perhaps some type of gelatin alkalized soak fer a few minutes to neutralize the acid cause that'll kick off the rusting again. The acid can remain in every teeny tiny microscopic knick, crack and corner unless it's neutralized. . Out of any tubes it may have gotten too, too. Acid likes to eat from the inside out, even more when not sealed by paint. ..


Funny thought: I dipped some 40's-60's Schwinn's, 20" for stingray and a few 10 speeds. restored completely in 60's, I didn't neutralize inside the tubes, I'm pretty sure they're dust now.

Click to expand...

Alright I have rust soak at work I could by but its pretty expensive 26.99 per gallon I get a decent discount bit it requires a second product to seal it. I really want this bike to last as long as possible as it is an heirloom as I inherited all of his things as his namesake. Would something like HCL (muriatic acid) work also if I let it soak as a rust remover? or would that be to harsh?

classicfan1 said:

My first restoration, like my first car restoration, was "baptism with fire". It was a 1963 Columbia Torpedo and I initially had to fill in a ton of pits in the tank, a pin hole in the bottom of the tank, the rear wheel had so many large deep pits I had to junk it, the same for the fender braces.

What you have doesn't look too hard to fix at all compared to what I had to deal with at the age of 13. I would use a maybe a Dremel grind stone to clean out and even out those tiny little pits, then wash it and dry it thoroughly and use body filler has needed.

From the looks of what you started with, you're lucky to not have anything worse, say holes! :eek:

Click to expand...

I have a dremel and I didnt even think of using it! I may give it a whirl before sending it to the Sandblaster guy in the city over! yeah I can only see a few holes that were definitely mechanically put there and they are surprisingly not rusty at all!


Thanks everyone for the tips! I hope to share the finished project in the spring as the winters here dont allow for much to be done. I'm so glad I stumbled upon this website, such a helpful and wonderful community! All in all its been a great learning experience and it gives me something to keep myself busy!

Edubs said:

I have a dremel and I didnt even think of using it! I may give it a whirl before sending it to the Sandblaster guy in the city over! yeah I can only see a few holes that were definitely mechanically put there and they are surprisingly not rusty at all!


Thanks everyone for the tips! I hope to share the finished project in the spring as the winters here dont allow for much to be done. I'm so glad I stumbled upon this website, such a helpful and wonderful community! All in all its been a great learning experience and it gives me something to keep myself busy!

Click to expand...

As a general rule, the more work you do yourself, the less you have to pay.

After I blast, strip and sand a frame, I treat it with Jasco metal prep not messing with the rust I can't get to in the small pits. Automotive shops use this along with another brand name prep but I can't think of the name off hand. Same active ingredient though.

http://www.thepaintstore.com/Jasco_Prep_Primer_p/qjpp007.htm

I think the other product you're thinking of is Rust Mort, I get it at a local auto supply store, converts the rust like the Jasco prep & prime. Nice job on that crusty frame, like to see how it comes out.