prolly been beat to death but here is my method for widdening dropouts

twashers are called fender washers,give a nice spread of pressure,put alltread and washers snuggly in drop out flanges where the rear axle goes,alternatly turn each nut one turn until you get about 1/4 to 1/2 wider than you need,let it set ovenite and remove!!

You have to over extend waaaaaay more than a 1/2" to bent the stays! The stays are springy. I've found that doing it the way you show is not the best way in many cases since the pressure is against both stays and the weaker of the two will bend while the other will not or not as much. Kinda like doing the wishbone deal, the weaker leg will break. I used the method that Sheldon explains to do a drastic spread on a 57 middleweight frame to take a 5 speed atom brake wheel. Went from 3 5/16 to 5 1/8 and then strung the dropouts to make sure they were equal from the center point.

>>>>> http://sheldonbrown.com/frame-spacing.html <<<<<<

thats over kill as the frames on theses old crusiers arnt that tough,ive done several with great luck!!

spoker said:

thats over kill as the frames on theses old crusiers arnt that tough,ive done several with great luck!!

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+1 I agree 100% ...spreading almost 2" ? Something has to give.

Never had a problem using your method.

I would employ either method, as they seem to be for slightly different frame issues, one being an equal spread of the rear drops, and the other to move either side or both a specific amount.

I just lay the frame on the ground, step on it, grab the dropout and pull up. Flip it over and do the otheer side.

Totally caveman style, but if all I need is an inch, it works for me. Obviously you need to make sure you're not tweaking one side.

Put a 135mm durex coaster brake in a 48 DX for my clunker this way, and it's straight and tracks perfect.

I've put moped drums in bikes using the sheldon brown method, though. I've seen drop outs bend instead of the tubes using the allthread method.