Well, I'll do what I can. You definitely don't want a top tube taller than you can stand over flatfooted.
Racing bikes tend to be steeper angles in head tube and seat tube, to give you crisp steering and short wheelbase, and lower bottom bracket.
Upright bikes and touring bikes tend to have relaxed angles and longer wheel base, including longer top tube, and higher bottom bracket. Low trail is a particular advantage in a front-loaded bike (low trail can be achieved either with relaxed head tube angle or fork offset).
Low trail also rides really nice (the fork is a better shock absorber), and the French always preferred low trail forks even on their racing bikes.
Relative top tube length has grown over the years. The angled top tube is simply to make it easier to stand over the frame. Bars are getting taller, and bar reach shorter.
Mountain and gravel bikes are kind of a special case of touring bikes, with shorter frame, longer top tube, high bottom bracket clearance and long chainstays to give long wheelbase, all intended to keep you going straight when you bounce.
Carlton geometry ruled the racing world in the days of steel. Those steep angles I mentioned, low fork offset, with seat tube and top tube pretty close to equal lengths. People built like me, with long limbs and shorter than typical torsos for their height love Carlton Geometry. (People with shorter legs and longer torso are going to prefer shorter frames with longer top tube.)
The Italians grabbed Carlton geometry with fervor, and over the next decades made head angles slightly steeper. and shortened chainstays to virtually no clearance between tire and seat tube.
High trail or low fork offset on a racing bike gives you very solid on-center feel, still with fast steering when you do turn for that steep head-tube, but more often you lean to make the bike turn. An advantage to leaning when you turn the bike is that gravity is adding to your acceleration out of the turn.
Reach and height can be adjusted in seatpost and stem, but as you lengthen your body relative to the designed wheelbase, you can adversely affect handling.
In a racing geometry, while you still sit behind the crank, a greater portion of your body weight is on the front wheel, and relative to more relaxed geometries, you're much closer to being directly over the crank. Proper seat height on a racing bike is usually a little higher than the stem - you should be able to lock your knees, but not forced to lock your knees on every rotation. You also pedal on the balls of your feet, requiring a taller saddle. Proper reach on a racing bike, your hands should be right over the front axle.
Usually a bad idea to make an upright out of an aggressive racing frame - the steering is awful fast, and your weight distribution won't be great. Less weight on that steep head tube makes steering twitchy.
Seat height on an upright should never be tall enough to let you lock your knees - you should be sitting well behind the crank, and bar height is taller than seat height. You can also center your arches over the pedals, allowing you to sit shorter.
Raleigh is always a good benchmark. Their touring bikes are uprights. They built a few true sport-touring bikes in the International, Gran Sport, and Grand Prix, Carlton geometry frames with low trail forks, and the rest of their bike-boom 10 speeds were Carlton geometry frames with high-trail (low offset) racing forks.
Here's my International frame with a pretty good perspective - Carlton geometry frame with low-trail fork, and I have it built now as a semi-upright with tall stem - this bike is my benchmark in every respect, the most comfortable and versatile bike I own, and I begin any other bike project with reach measurements from this bike. I worked out this position over 40 years on my Grand Prix, with identical frame and fork geometry.
Note that with the moustache bar cockpit of this bike, the stem reach Must be 2" shorter than what normally fits you on a drop-bar road bike, because the bar reach is that much greater. My semi-upright riding position has the hoods about an inch behind the front axle.
here's the perspective on my road bike - I started with reach measurements from the bike above, compared top tubes, and measured out a stem length of 100mm to get the same reach to the hoods as above. You may be able to see this bike sits a little closer to being vertical over the crank, also requiring a taller saddle.
Both head and seat tube are slightly steeper, top tube length about the same, noticeable lower fork offset (high trail)
The bars I picked are Cinelli 64, the original compact Dream Bar from the 70s - shorter reach, much closer and usable drop position - you can find this bar new for $45 - do not pass Go.
Upright - seat way back, much lower, on the longest-rear-offset seatpost made, Nitto S84. The CX frame has a longer top tube and higher bottom bracket. I measured reach here to match the outside grab position on the moustache bars of the International. You'll note hand position here is not even close to the front axle.