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Road Bike Frame Differences

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Different eras of road bikes brought fashionable changes in frame geometry, but as a general rule, a cruiser has a more laid back seat post and longer wheelbase. Fit is most difficult to achieve with a road bike because they aren't built for comfort as top priority and what works to transfer power efficiently does not often match what is comfortable. The idea behind them is also that you are powering enough that you don't support much of your weight on your hands, but the geometry makes that difficult to do unless you are heavily using your leg and core muscles as you would when riding fast (that you're not supporting much weight on your backside is why the saddles are so often recreations of devices used during the Spanish Inquisition). That's also the reason for the drop bars—to allow for more hand positions to relieve stresses, particularly on longer runs and to allow for different postures to match a change in topography. Cruisers are designed for comfort at the expense of efficiency and handling and are not generally expected to do long rides.

It sounds like you want the shorter reach and more upright stance of a cruiser, but something like the more efficient pedaling geometry of a road bike. I am much the same way. My favorite bike that I've ridden is my modified 93 Giant Innova, which is an early hybrid with a strong and reasonably light chromoly frame (mostly a rigid mountain bike with larger and thinner 700c wheels and tires). It's a hair on the small side for me, but I can easily dismount while moving. It is versatile, comfortable, and surprisingly fast—not as much to keep up with roadies, but I have to hold back whenever I ride with anyone else. These types of bikes are usually pretty cheap. Here's what it looked like originally (actually, this is a slightly larger one I picked up to electrify) and what it looks like now that I'm done with it (though, I might add a tow bar for my kayaks). Even with the added weight of the rack, fenders, 12V headlight and battery pack, and oak block pedals, it's only about 35 lbs.

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Nice bike. I may have to go for something newer like that.
 
on a road bike when you stand over the top tube you should have maybe 2" of clearance for your junk.

taller frames are also longer on the top tube. your reach can be changed with a different handlebar stem... longer or shorter or one that puts the bars higher or lower.

why were those bikes hard to pedal?
They were hard to pedal because they were so short for me. I can see why the Motobecane Mirage would be a nice bike. it was sure smooth!
 
These are the two bikes I'm currently playing around with. The one in the snow is a 'replica' of a 50's Raleigh Sports Model 21. I've gotten to where I can ride it in the drops. I am right at 6' tall and figure I need a 23" frame. This bike is a 23" frame. The other is a '51 Rudge and is a 22" frame. I also feel comfortable in the drops and maybe a little more so than the other. With the Rudge I can also have my legs fairly straight so the saddle isn't really too low.
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NIGHTRUDGE.jpg
 
on your bike just above, note sucky pista bars with giant reach and giant drop - your stem height doesn't look safe - be careful not to damage the fork steerer tube.
They were hard to pedal because they were so short for me. I can see why the Motobecane Mirage would be a nice bike. it was sure smooth!
You can try raising the saddle, and also try a stem that was made to be taller - Nitto Tecnomic or Dirt Drop.
Here's how Rivendell sets up a drop bar bike today - not intended to be a racing bike, but an all-road comfort bike (the Nitto noodle bars are still long reach for my likes).
(and the Nitto Technomic stem was made to be in this position)
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This bike has the same frame geometry (and probably size) as your bike just above - note how differently they're set up - this stem is at its safe limit, and saddle is higher for my 35" inseam.
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How much different are Road Bike Frames vs Sit Up Bikes Frames? At a bike swap meet yesterday I test rode 2 road bikes that were clearly too short for me. I am 6' tall so I figure I need a 23" frame. These were 21" or a little shorter, perhaps. Instantly they were very comfortable to ride! No feeling of leaning over the bars and causing my hands to hurt. One bike was from the 70's and the other from the 80's. I could sure tell they would be hard for me to pedal very long so I passed, but I can't get over how comfortable they are. What I'm wondering is.....is this related to the size (height) of the bike or the geometry? I'm puzzled.
I think you should have gotten the bike if it felt perfect for you.I always laugh when people ask "how can you ride on that skinny seat". They dont believe how comfortable a properly broke in seat feels.lol
 
Im 6'1" and the smallest oldie road bike frame for me is a 25"er 1974 Letour. I also have a 26" '73 Sports Tourer,It fits me well but the Letour frame geometry is more comfortable.
 
on your bike just above, note sucky pista bars with giant reach and giant drop - your stem height doesn't look safe - be careful not to damage the fork steerer tube.

You can try raising the saddle, and also try a stem that was made to be taller - Nitto Tecnomic or Dirt Drop.
Here's how Rivendell sets up a drop bar bike today - not intended to be a racing bike, but an all-road comfort bike (the Nitto noodle bars are still long reach for my likes).
(and the Nitto Technomic stem was made to be in this position)
View attachment 978607
I like that bike! Love that color, too! Is it a new bike? Important notes on the Rudge. I'll either change it or just occasionally ride it around town....maybe. I would like to find a road bike that is comfortable for many miles, but can also keep up with others.
 
I think you should have gotten the bike if it felt perfect for you.I always laugh when people ask "how can you ride on that skinny seat". They dont believe how comfortable a properly broke in seat feels.lol
Well, I still could. I know where it's at. A friend has it. I could go over and adjust the seat and bars and see if I could make it work. It was the smoothest bike I've ridden so far and that was on 27x1-1/8 tires. Pair that with my Brooks B17 and I'd be set!
 
I like that bike! Love that color, too! Is it a new bike? Important notes on the Rudge. I'll either change it or just occasionally ride it around town....maybe. I would like to find a road bike that is comfortable for many miles, but can also keep up with others.
yes, that Riv is brand new, with a discounted price tag of 2 grand
https://www.rivbike.com/collections...cles/products/sam-hillborne-complete-drop-bar

You also might want to review their sizing chart about measuring you and bikes.

As far as skinny saddle, you match saddle to riding position. B17 is for semi-upright. B15 (swallow) is for drop-bar road bike.
My Swallow is the most invisible saddle I've ever ridden.
Saddle break-in, though, is a myth. Need for break-in is picking the wrong saddle to begin with and/or maladjusting it.
Any Brooks saddle should always nose up, never nose down.
 
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I like that bike! Love that color, too! Is it a new bike? Important notes on the Rudge. I'll either change it or just occasionally ride it around town....maybe. I would like to find a road bike that is comfortable for many miles, but can also keep up with others.
here's the correct stem if you want to swap it - not a lot of money nor a troublesome exercise (note the forward reach is 2-1/4", shorter than the photo shows)
 
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