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Boiled linseed oil?

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I use boiled Flaxseed oil all the time for most everything I want to seal from the elements. On old painted bikes, or exposed metals, it seems a perfect sealer. A natural product, non-toxic, and it has been an Oil-based paint additive for years. I have never had LS-wiped down rags catch fire...Hmmmm.
When I use it on old paint, I put it on thick and wet to ensure good seal-age, then with old clean rags and paper towels, wipe away all evidence of it.
Keep wiping it down as it dries for less glossy look. It'l dry in a few days via oxygen/air exposure.
 
I.m going to use the BLO sealing option for my bike as the weather here can make things rust in the workshop, even if I dont use the thing.

I have a few questions though, I see you have to re-apply the oil occasionally, do you have to strip off the old oil first or just apply over the top?
Secondly, I left some BLO out in a plastic cup and see that its gone fairly hard, If you do have to strip it off it looks to be a fairly hard process as the hardened oil didnt readily
mix with turpentine or most other thinners, Only cellulose thinners worked and that wasnt particularly quick. Any thoughts on this please?

Thanks for looking
 
I.m going to use the BLO sealing option for my bike as the weather here can make things rust in the workshop, even if I dont use the thing.

I have a few questions though, I see you have to re-apply the oil occasionally, do you have to strip off the old oil first or just apply over the top?
Secondly, I left some BLO out in a plastic cup and see that its gone fairly hard, If you do have to strip it off it looks to be a fairly hard process as the hardened oil didnt readily
mix with turpentine or most other thinners, Only cellulose thinners worked and that wasnt particularly quick. Any thoughts on this please?

Thanks for looking

If you use the linseed oil on exterior wood then yes you need to re-apply. On a bike frame I'd say no, you don't need to re-apply unless the bike was yard art being exposed for years outside. I had a 1 gallon can of this blow open from the Arizona heat and leak out all over the concrete floor. When I noticed it maybe years later there was a super hard pile of a resin type mess that I couldn't even chisel off the concrete. Once it's on it does not evaporate like an oil, it's more like a coating of resin so if the bike is stored out of the elements I would think it will last for a very long time.
 
I like to blend melted bees wax, lacquer thinner and boiled linseed oil. You can use an inexpensive single unit conduction cooktop. Open flame is unsafe for flammables.
I used gallons of this on painted metal parts and wood, for many years, in my business.
 
I like to blend melted bees wax, lacquer thinner and boiled linseed oil. You can use an inexpensive single unit conduction cooktop. Open flame is unsafe for flammables.
I used gallons of this on painted metal parts and wood, for many years, in my business.

How hot did you need to get the mixture, Giovanni? Just enough to melt the beeswax?
 
How hot did you need to get the mixture, Giovanni? Just enough to melt the beeswax?


I would like to know what the reason is to add bees wax to linseed oil for a paint/metal protectant. Maybe for waterproofing a canvas tent maybe?
 
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