When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.

'74 LeTour

-

Real1

Finally riding a big boys bike
I'd like to remove the stock pedals on this bike, clean/polish and repack. Most pedal disassembly I can figure out. I assume those end caps come off somehow. But before I go all Medieval on them, I'd like some feedback.

There is a faint ring on the outermost end cap.....does that pry off?

In the pedal identification thread above, they look like the ones in the last(10th) pic group.

Kevin
 
Last edited:
Sorry I can't answer your question with a definite, but I'll post the pictures for others to see.


1616228018336.png
 
-----

one technique followed by some enthusiasts on pedals not designed to be disassembled is to drill small hole in the outer end cap and use this to pump grease through with a grease gun

the procedure is to keep pumping until clean grease begins it issue from around the inner end of the spindle

-----
 
Interesting. That's a great way to get grease IN, but it doesn't allow you to preload old bearings once cleaned and reinstalled.

I've heard about these pedals that weren't meant to be disassembled. You'd think that end cap had to be pressed on somehow?

Thanks for posting that pic for me, BTW!

Kevin
 
-----

have seen this model designated as the RT-E

do not know if that is correct...

some ffolke seem to consider them rather dear for an all-steel stamped pedal IMHO:



regarding the endcap -

do not have a set handy to examine in person

in the course of enlarging images available online it appears that the inner most ring is just a stamping in the larger piece rather than something separate

the outer piece may be separate; if so it looks like it may be soldered to the wraparound

-----
 
Yeah, I think you're correct on the inner most ring on the end cap....it's just an adornment.

If I knew I'd have to destroy the end caps to get them off, I'd just do the small hole thing and grease them. Better than nothing and I have grease 'needles' that would work.

Kevin
 
I just took a high powered light and a sharp pick....I see no real seam. So yes, I suspect those end caps are soldered on.

I wished I had some others to play with....take a propane torch to them and see if I can de-solder a seam.

I sneaked in aftermarket toe clips under one of the reflectors with spacers. Worked great all these yrs. I feel some slight play in both pedal bearings. With some grease shot in there, they'd probably soldier on for many yrs yet. Honestly, these aren't premium quality pedals and really not deserving of a lot of labor.

Kevin
 
I just took a high powered light and a sharp pick....I see no real seam. So yes, I suspect those end caps are soldered on.

I wished I had some others to play with....take a propane torch to them and see if I can de-solder a seam.

I sneaked in aftermarket toe clips under one of the reflectors with spacers. Worked great all these yrs. I feel some slight play in both pedal bearings. With some grease shot in there, they'd probably soldier on for many yrs yet. Honestly, these aren't premium quality pedals and really not deserving of a lot of labor.

Kevin

That was the status quo starting in the mid 60's on production bikes. They quit making automotive U joints with grease zerks also. So run it till it's dry and it breaks were the new wave of the future. I had a late 80's Schwinn 5 speed cruiser that was from Florida and the block Union pedals were shot. I picked up a brand new set of the same Union pedals and the only difference was the end caps were stamped with the U. They were 8 bucks a pair at the local bike shop in 2010.
 
I'll make a hole for a needle zerk tool. If I get really ambitious someday, I'll buy a couple of used pedals exactly like these and see what it takes to get those end caps off.

I actually saw U-joints with screw caps in place of zerk nipples. Then no hole at all, but still the reinfoirced portion where it would go. Replacement U-joints almost always had the zerk nipples...later, you had to ask for them. Nothing worse than a truck with no zerks for upper and lower ball joints too, but I digress.

Kevin
 
-----

there are threads here on the forum from members who rebuilt pedals not intended to be disassembled

these efforts were performed to retain historically correct pedals on a vintage machine receiving restoration

certainly makes no sense from a practical mechanical standpoint given the cost of functional replacements...


----
 
Back
Top