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What does your current project look like now?

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...until it plays a note that doesn't go flat. Or until torque stops increasing, that's when you know the nipple is pulling through the rim. They really don't take as much torque as modern heat treated aluminum rims. I don't use a tension meter, seeing as how they probably didn't use them back in the 40s.
 
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...until it plays a note that doesn't go flat. Or until torque stops increasing, that's when you know the nipple is pulling through the rim. They really don't take as much torque as modern heat treated aluminum rims. I don't use a tension meter, seeing as how they probably didn't use them back in the 40s.
That's a pretty excellent point.
 
If you want to stick with the 1" pitch chain contact Ichibike on Ebay. They make 9, 10, and 11 tooth sprockets that should work on those hubs. I have an 11 tooth on my '35 Hawthorne Flyer's 3 speed Nexus hub.

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If you want to stick with the 1" pitch chain contact Ichibike on Ebay. They make 9, 10, and 11 tooth sprockets that should work on those hubs. I have an 11 tooth on my '35 Hawthorne Flyer's 3 speed Nexus hub.
Here are the sprockets, 1" pitch... https://www.ichibike.com/shop-2
You may have to do a little bit of filing on the nubs for them to fit... I use these on my SA hubs and they work great. I'll keep an 👁️ on your build....
 
If you want to stick with the 1" pitch chain contact Ichibike on Ebay. They make 9, 10, and 11 tooth sprockets that should work on those hubs. I have an 11 tooth on my '35 Hawthorne Flyer's 3 speed Nexus hub.

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I had read about these. I’m going to convert to 1/2” pitch. I want a new new chain, save the 1” pitch for guys that need them. I like the concept though!
 
Making slow but steady progress on my current Rat Rod Bikes Build Off entry, Shoestring. It shouldn't take much to get it rideable, mostly just cleaning and greasing bearings, and servicing the coaster brake. The most recent progress however has come from the custom headlight I'm going to build and install on this bike.
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I've got a bent spoon that will hold the headlight like you'd hold a baseball using the palm of your hand. Unlike your hand and the baseball though, the headlight will be held in place using either rivets or screws.
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I just found a light bulb I could use with the socket I already had in stock. I just had to rob it from one of my back-burner bikes.
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Here are most of the parts I intend to use to make this headlight: a large aluminum fence post topper, a VW emblem, a 2x AAA battery tray, an e10 light bulb and socket, and a tiny switch I got from one of the last, if not the last Radio Shack in the state of Oklahoma. I already had all these parts, which is good because I'm trying not to spend a ton of money on this bike.
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The good news is that everything fits inside the fence post topper just fine. The not so great news is that I only have just enough room to fit everything inside the topper. That means I've got some cosmetic problems to figure out since I can't trim the topper so the VW emblem sits flush against the ridge on the topper.

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I am back. Been gone for a while. Feels good to be back online. This is an old restoration that needed the tank. Rusty72 helped me out. Yes the paint on the tank is off by a lot but look at how it fits the frame like a glove. I don't think I can squeeze a piece of paper between the bars and the tank! Hopefully, I will be able to finally match up the paint. I thought I had the correct color but what was inside the spray can and what the cap showed were totally different. The spray can cap matched perfectly but what was inside the can didn't.
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