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1915 Mead Crusader “The Road to Rideable”

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Drosentreter

I live for the CABE
Well, I am finally getting somewhere on this bike, and I’ll give a short introduction as to how I got it, where I’m at now, and where I’m headed.

It started with finding the bikes at a local historical society that I’ve been roaming since I was born, but with no knowledge these existed in the attic of one of the barns, but alas someone drug them out and I got to see them after they decided to reconsider their price upon further research. They had them appraised by a guy in Cali that the American Pickers turned them onto, and he was terribly unrealistic, and didn’t even know what the Western Wheel Works bike was. He instead tried to ID it as a Mead girls bike knowing full and well that the person calling him wouldn’t know the difference. I finally convinced the historical society that the appraiser didn’t know what the Western Wheel Works bike was by showing them an original advertisement provided by a helpful member here on the cabe.

After weeks of waiting they finally had a discussion about an offer I had made for nearly all I could afford on the two of them, and determined they would like more and that I can’t sell the bicycles out of my collection for profit. Given this condition and the higher price I was hesitant, but ultimately decided I would regret passing them up. So here I am with an 1892/1893 Western Wheel Works Boys Junior, and a 1915ish Mead Crusader.

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Sense the Western Wheel Works is missing so much it got put on the back burner, and my main priority is getting the Crusader up and going. I can’t bring myself to buy Robert Deans for these rims given the price, and loss of the original tires, but I know I can’t ride these tires. The rims are in very good shape, but I know I don’t want to mess with new washers/retruing and regluing the tires either so Robert Deans are out of the question. Next I had to decide what I was doing about rims and hubs. I had a set of 27” 10 speed Schwinn rims with terrible chrome that I felt I could sandblast, paint, respoke and change hubs. Well I only had 2 options available to me for skippy hubs. Either I could tear down the original 28” wood wheels and lace the hubs into my 27” rims, which I decided against as I am saving the rims, tires, and hubs for display, or I could use the 10 speed front hub, and a rear hub out of a 1946 Schwinn girls bike. Well I decided against the Schwinn rear hub too because the rim and hub were both mint and original to eachother. So I put out a plea for a cheap skippy rear hub and @MrMonark13 came through with a New Departure off of a much newer bike(40s I think) and offered it to me for a price I couldn’t refuse… the cost of shipping!!! Thanks MrMonark! So now I’ve been tearing into it…

I have since removed the wheelset, crankset, and lone pedal. I intend on finding time to soften the single tubes and mold them back to shape for display(any tips?). Number one priority is getting my “new” wheelset ready. With me being as gung-ho about this project as I am, I am amazed I remembered to take “as found” pictures before I began tearing it apart. But me being me I forgot to snap some pics of the wheelset when I started. I wanted a faux wood wheelset that I could buy tires for easily, cheaply, and would look real from 15 feet. I’ve heard, and seen it done with some different methods, so I decided to give it a try. The chrome was so bad I tossed the wheelset in my blast cabinet and got them blasted to take all of the loose chrome off and heavily scuff the rest. Half of the spokes broke off even after some serious soaking in PB Blaster. Ohh well I saved the spoke nipples that I could for reuse/replacement on another project for another day. I then began the process of faux woodwork. I started with some red primer because it’s what I had on hand, and it should hide well under the paint color. I then sprayed the wheels with some tan satin paint to create a base color for the wood. After that dries I will get a coarse bristle chip brush and some darkish wood stain and begin to attempt realistic wood grain. Once I am done with the wood grain I will let the stain dry, and I will come back with some Satin/Semi Gloss clear and cover it all.(any tips on this whole process?) If it works it works, if it doesn’t it doesn't, no biggie, I’ll just paint them a close brown if it doesnt. I then decided that the tires just wouldn’t do in black or white, as the originals were white with red tread. So here I am considering purchasing red tires, and white wall tire paint to paint the sidewalls with(anyone have experience with this stuff? Does it work?). Alas that will be the end of the abnormal repair/servicing work… but wait there’s more! Someone at some point stripped out/broke/lost the rear chain tensioners, so if someone has a set on the cheap I’m interested. The worst part is that they replaced the tensioners with really heavy oversized wood screws😭. So I got them removed, and made myself some tensioners out of 1/4,20 bolts. I plan on cutting down the bolt heads into a square sometime down the road but the hex head is fine for now. Now, those should be it for the repairs(I hope).

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Now, I have a few questions. How in the hell does this headset come apart!?! I am having the darndest time, and I may just be stupid, but I want someone to tell me🤣. Seriously though I don’t want to break anything so any help is appreciated.

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Last thing for today. Pedals… I need a match, or a matching set. Will consider either. I am on a modest budget, so if you have a similar set for cheap I may just take you up on it just to have some pedals. Must be 1/2”. In addition to this, I need a pair for the meanwhile to run, so anyone with a cheap set of rat trap pedals please message me. Thank you.

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The painted rim looks nice; is it 27”/630mm, and what brand or shade of tan is it called?

I believe that the headset has a binder clamp like many seat posts, not sure if the stem also has a tightening wedge, from the outside looks like those that do (but different). Also, hardware looks to require a spanner wrench for fastening the bearing parts.

Have you determined the manufacturer yet?
I believe that Davis may have built some Mead diamond frames in the teens; but maybe this example could be earlier?
 
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The painted rim looks nice; is it 27”/630mm, and what brand or shade of tan is it called?

I believe that the headset has a binder clamp like many seat posts, not sure if the stem also has a tightening wedge, (but from the outside looks like those that do).

Have you determined the manufacturer yet?
I believe that Davis may have built some Mead diamond frames in the teens.

The wheelset is a Schwinn Wheelset😬😂. 27” off of a 1975 Continental. The color is Rustoleum Satin Nutmeg. It’s what I had on hand and it was close enough for a base color.

Thanks for the help on the headset, I’m still not sure exactly how it comes apart but I’ll play with it a bit.

I have not determined the manufacturer yet, Davis is very well possible though.
 
Last thing for today. Pedals… I need a match, or a matching set. Will consider either. I am on a modest budget, so if you have a similar set for cheap I may just take you up on it just to have some pedals. Must be 1/2”. In addition to this, I need a pair for the meanwhile to run, so anyone with a cheap set of rat trap pedals please message me. Thank you.

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Here's your pedals if you can steal them from goldslinger. Verify axle size.

 
Here's your pedals if you can steal them from goldslinger. Verify axle size.

Close but no cigar. I figured if he wanted to get rid of them for a decent price I would be interested but they still have some differences in the hole patterns. Thanks for the lead though!
 
Update, The wheels have another coat of paint, and I got the headtube apart thanks to @piercer_99 but now I have another question… the parts on the head tube… are they all original? This is the way they came off of the head tube, but I am wondering if the second from left(second from bottom also) is correct for this bike. I don’t think it is for the simple fact that it doesn’t fit the threads and that it is built like a race even though the ball bearings sit in the next race down… is there a spacer that is supposed to be here? Or what…

One more thing. Where can I buy ball bearings for this?

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