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1935-36 HW DURALIUM I'm

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MJ, That's about as slick a setup as I've seen. Tell me if those are 26" wheels squeezed in there. Since I haven't got the book yet on these, tell me if you would about the tank. And, how can one tell the diff between the HW's and the Monarks. What are you using for hubs? They look like ND black outs.
P.S. Nice device on the downtube dude!
 
TR6SC, thanks for the kind words, yes those are 26's that fit in there nicely, though I doubt fenders would fit in too. Tank is a repurposed pool cover roller, I have no clue as to the differences b'twn the two brands. I'll have to go look at the hubs again, forget what I used. I want to work on some way to raise the seat a little more & get this one back on the road again.
 
I really like those frames, have a similar one. When I got mine the fork tube was broken in half, looked like something chewed it up. Was able to have it welded back together, believed that is really pressed in to the fork so removal didn't seem like a good option. Splicing w/ reinforcement will work, but it looks like you still have a lot of good threads left, most bike shops have the threading tool, then you could just have the split welded. Sanding & polishing aluminum is a long but well worth process, good luck.

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I like how your tank is tucked in there.
 
If i remember from reading the patent for these frames, the steerer was chilled in liquid nitrogen and pressed into the fork. That might be hard to do in the home shop. Apart from the split, there might be enough metal left to salvage the threads with a thread repair file:
https://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_...=industrial&field-keywords=thread+repair+file
I've been able to salvage really messed up threaded parts with these. It can take some time, but it's a quiet, contemplative kind of job, Cutting in new threads with a die can remove too much metal. Welding in a new steerer can also be done- just make sure it is straight and concentric with the stub in the fork. A lot of frame builders will do this for you, and they understand what needs to be done. Or just find a good welder/fabricator.
 
Good input AG. All my liquid nitrogen has dried up! I struggled with a thread file, but wasn't getting anywhere. I ended up chasing the threads with a die. It turned out much better that I would have guessed. The cone threads on nicely with no binding or slop.
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Good day today! I was able to rip through #600, #800, and #1200. I used a little aluminum polish just to make me happy.
Tomorrow I will attack the frame. I hope to get through #800. Right now the #400 is done. Should be smooth sailing.
Since I have nothing other than the frame and forks, I was thinking black hubs, spokes, rims, and tires. 26 inch. Comments?
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I like the black out wheel set idea, I was actually going to do something similar. Just because of the fact that my rims are already painted black.

Also the drop stand is steel not aluminum.
 
I like the black out wheel set idea, I was actually going to do something similar. Just because of the fact that my rims are already painted black.

Also the drop stand is steel not aluminum.
Dude! Talk to me! How's the project?
 
Dude! Talk to me! How's the project?

still chugging along, soaked all the rusty bits in PB Blaster for a week still not coming out. So I went and bought brand new cobalt drill bits and a tap set, now I just need to drill and tap the rusty screws. I also ordered a set of ThickSlick tires for it but it's been put on the back burner just for a bit, I entered the RatRodBikes yearly build off with my 1950s J.C Higgins Color-Flow so I need to focus on that for a while.
 
still chugging along, soaked all the rusty bits in PB Blaster for a week still not coming out. So I went and bought brand new cobalt drill bits and a tap set, now I just need to drill and tap the rusty screws. I also ordered a set of ThickSlick tires for it but it's been put on the back burner just for a bit, I entered the RatRodBikes yearly build off with my 1950s J.C Higgins Color-Flow so I need to focus on that for a while.
Are you hip to "Easy Outs"?
 
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