1968 Raleigh Sports

[bulldog1935]

Thanks for the advice. What would you recommend to rub it down with?

I usually start with Meguier's polishing compound and finish with wax

My favorite wax is Butcher's and I apply the wax with my fingers, then buff it out with lint-free rags.

This is the original paint (not original decals) on a '76 frame that's been rubbed (and the gold tipping re-done)

 

[milbicycleman]

Thank you for the advice guys. It's been very helpful. I cleaned up the bike and used some 3M wax on it but I don't think there's any way to fix whatever happened to the paint. I also used bronze wool on the wheels. The rear came out really well but the front is super pitted and rusty. The pictures I posted earlier are after I did all the cleaning for reference. At this point should I just let it go the way it is or is there more I can do?


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[SirMike1983]

Thank you for the advice guys. It's been very helpful. I cleaned up the bike and used some 3M wax on it but I don't think there's any way to fix whatever happened to the paint. I also used bronze wool on the wheels. The rear came out really well but the front is super pitted and rusty. The pictures I posted earlier are after I did all the cleaning for reference. At this point should I just let it go the way it is or is there more I can do?


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As spotted as the paint is, I'd be inclined to stick with it unless you absolutely can't bear it. Most of these were working or utility type bicycles at some point or another - commuters; campus bikes; grocery bikes; etc. The balloon tire American bikes were often for younger people who wanted to imitate a motorcycle or a plane or a car, whereas these were usually for older students or adults wanting a more practical bike. So they got used and saw a lot of time outdoors, or exposed to chemicals in the garage or at work. I'd just call the spotting part of the bike's history, and as long as it's not rusting out or peeling off, maybe let it be.

The rim is a little easier. You can try to locate a single rim on eBay or the like. Or you can do a rim swap to Sun CR18 aluminum rims front and back. Or you could swap both to steel endrick pattern rims from another Raleigh bike. The Sun CR18 is the most common rim swap today and it makes the braking a lot better, and the rims are lighter. If you have to have original, you can probably locate a donor wheel or loose rim on eBay if you're patient. Millions were made over the course of a half century.

The other thing is you could try to locate a tall frame Sports project that is better and swap the parts you want to that donor bike - basically mix two bikes until you get what you want. Don't sell what you have until you have the second bike in hand to mix up what you want, then sell the extra parts you don't want (or keep for spares) off to recoup costs.

 

[milbicycleman]

Thanks, these are all really great suggestions. I'll definitely do some checking around to see what my options are for now.


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[milbicycleman]

I went to the Hershey Fall Swap Meet today and found 2 bikes for parts the one is 1952 (based on the hub) Rudge Sports and the other is some beat up West German bike that I got just for the shifter. The plan was to take the wheels off of the 52' Rudge since I know the 50's bikes are better quality and the shifter off of the German bike. What do you guys think?

 

[SirMike1983]

Yeah - looks to be a 1952 from these pictures. Raleigh/Rudge/Humber were at their best in those years. The wheels look like they'll clean up. That bike is likely a little better-made overall than your other one, but it's also incomplete and a smaller frame. Save as many parts as you can from it - many will interchange with other Raleigh Sports from various years after WWII.

The Sturmey shifter is a late 1950s-era model - also a good one.

 

[milbicycleman]

Yeah - looks to be a 1952 from these pictures. Raleigh/Rudge/Humber were at their best in those years. The wheels look like they'll clean up. That bike is likely a little better-made overall than your other one, but it's also incomplete and a smaller frame. Save as many parts as you can from it - many will interchange with other Raleigh Sports from various years after WWII.

The Sturmey shifter is a late 1950s-era model - also a good one.

Thank you for letting me know. I had a feeling it was better quality. Do you think it would be worth while to put those on the 68 I have, since it's the correct size? Or hold out for a larger older frame?


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[SirMike1983]

Thank you for letting me know. I had a feeling it was better quality. Do you think it would be worth while to put those on the 68 I have, since it's the correct size? Or hold out for a larger older frame?


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You can put them on - these wheelsets can be moved from bike-to-bike relatively easily once you get used to working with them. I'd throw them on the rider bike that fits you. If you later get an even better bike, the wheelset can move with you to that better frame.

 

[milbicycleman]

You can put them on - these wheelsets can be moved from bike-to-bike relatively easily once you get used to working with them. I'd throw them on the rider bike that fits you. If you later get an even better bike, the wheelset can move with you to that better frame.

Okay great, I was thinking that would be the best way use them. Thank you for your help. I'll post updates once I go through them and put them on the 68.


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[dnc1]

There is some excellent advice from people above.
I'm surprised that the paint hasn't cleaned up better after using a rubbing compound; Raleigh paint from this era was still good, not as good as earlier eras but still reasonable. It did have to cope with our lovely English weather after all.
As has been mentioned above also, English parts from the '50's onwards are fairly interchangeable and were produced in their millions, so I don't think you'll have problems finding any parts you might need.
Incidentally, no doubt due to their relative rarity, this era of Brit cycles (with the exception of lightweights that is) seem to be held in higher esteem over your side of the pond.
Which is a shame really, but one day, as time progresses, I'm sure they'll be very collectable everywhere.