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Monark fork bearing cup shims

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mrg

Riding a '38 Autocycle Deluxe
(Though Id bump this, I've made a shim bit still looking for a OG one ) Trying to get my loose fork bearing cup problem figured out, missing OG shims ( think Monark Speedster & 5 bar only ?), made some but still don't know if they are right (fork comes loose after short ride), I guess there is a thin and thick ones, I think I need the thin ones, the pic is a thick one I think,
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Mark that pic looks like the correct ones. I think the key is getting the right thickness sheet metal for the shim. The cups should fit snug in the head tube with no play. V/r Shawn
 
I would 1st have your head tube openings re-surfaced(shaved) to be parallel to each other by a good bike shop. These old frames tend to have out-of-round head tubes that over the years may stretch out because of hard use or big hits on forks. If you use a shim like above, make sure the shims do not keep the headset cups from seating cleanly on the frames' head tube openings. This keeps all the bearings cleanly contacting the cups' and cones' races.
 
Well the shem helped but noticed the frame is worn (probably from no shims & excessive use) on top/back making the cup sit at a angle, never thought about shaving it off, I was going to add some material (a weld then grind flush) to make it flush with frame and parallel with bottom cup, as far as shem thickness i don't know, I may have to take some of you up on your offers but still would like to find some OG, I like WDG's with a lip to keep the from sliding into the frame, do the cup still seat all the way in the frame?

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Thought I could do better?
Actually one side is more worn than the other. The pop can on one side - maybe brass shim on other.As far as the lip that's only way I've ever done
 

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Once you fix the worn head tube the tin can shims will work fine. The head cups will not seat all the way if you put a lip on it. V/r Shawn
 
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