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Help with stuck head set and stem.

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Vintagedad

Finally riding a big boys bike
The head set is completely stuck on this rusted 68 Schwinn Stingray Deluxe. The locknut etc. just will not budge. I started with an adjustable wrench and WD40, upgraded to a pipe wrench and PB Blaster. Tried a bigger pipe wrench. Ive let it sit after spraying it multiple times and soaking it. I’ve used a torch to heat it up. I was finally able to remove the stem bolt after striking it with a mallet, heating it with a torch, using PB Blaster over and over again as I moved the bolt slightly each time. It finally began moving and came off. The head set and stem are a different story though.

Any bright ideas for me to try? I thought about soaking the whole thing in evaporust for like a week. I attached pictures of it if it helps.


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I wouldmt use the pipe wrench anymoe. Looks like its crushing the flats on the nut.I've got a large wrench but it has flat jaws where the pipe wrench has teeth. Also with a tire mounted on fork and locked between my knees I would get movement. Out of one of those things.hacksaw a diagonal slot on the topnut.heat things up until water pops as you quench it. After cycles of heating and quenching -then comes the PB.
 
I wouldmt use the pipe wrench anymoe. Looks like its crushing the flats on the nut.I've got a large wrench but it has flat jaws where the pipe wrench has teeth. Also with a tire mounted on fork and locked between my knees I would get movement. Out of one of those things.hacksaw a diagonal slot on the topnut.heat things up until water pops as you quench it. After cycles of heating and quenching -then comes the PB.

I’ll keep trying heating it up. I tried putting a tire on and it didn’t work that way either. Your right I’ll stop with the pipe wrench. I’m going to get a breaker bar and put it on the end of my adjustable next time I try I guess. I’m kind of at a loss at the moment.
 
I remove frozen valves from engines. Usually the engines have been sitting so long in barns or wherever. Mice get in them. Anyway the propane torch followed by a squirt bottle - till the water sizzles as it strikes the heated guide. At least 3 times - then heated again and quench with PB. Then I place brass mallet on top of valve and strike mallet with large ball peen so I don't mushroom. Tip of valve. Old hemis -nailheads- etc. Lots of smoke tho.But I save the guides
 
... I just went thru the same problem on a '52 Phantom project ... I ended up cutting the nut off with an air cutoff wheel ... then unscrewed the bearing race and tied it up out of the way ...
... Then carefully heated the threaded portion of the fork where the stem is inserted after soaking it over night with penetrating oil ...
... Put the handlbars back in and twisted the stem back and forth until it came out ...
 
... I just went thru the same problem on a '52 Phantom project ... I ended up cutting the nut off with an air cutoff wheel ... then unscrewed the bearing race and tied it up out of the way ...
... Then carefully heated the threaded portion of the fork where the stem is inserted after soaking it over night with penetrating oil ...
... Put the handlbars back in and twisted the stem back and forth until it came out ...

Thanks for sharing if I can’t remove the locknut by heating it I will probably take your method up and cut it off if possible. At this point I don’t mind damaging the nuts and neck etc. as I can replace them. I just don’t want to damage the frame or fork.
 
I would concentrate on the stem. If you can't get that out, the head set doesn't matter. Clamp a nice piece of pipe in the stem and clamp the fork between a couple of 2X4's and twist away. Once the stem is out, you can cut the nut off with a cutting wheel or hacksaw. Have fun!
 
Heat the stem and nut until it's red hot and smoking. The heat has to penetrate all the way down to the stem wedge . Pour some water on it to violently cool it down. This will bust the rust. Don't worry about your paint on the head tube. place your frame out on your lawn and beat that stem up and out. As far as the headset, you've already wrecked them. I think you are using too small of a pipe wrench or it's old and worn out. Get a 24 inch pipe wrench on and they will either come off or the fork tube will snap off inside. Get another fork [ any brand] and weld it on or replace the fork. They're plentiful and cheap.
 
This may be a silly question, but you DID knock the wedge down after getting the stem bolt to budge, right? Simply removing the bolt isn't enough. In the most extreme cases, I like to clamp the stem, inverted, in a large bench vise, then use a chunk of 2x4 to rock the fork from side-to-side until the rusty seal breaks. Looks like your lockring is toast--you'll probably have to cut it and use a replacement. They're common.
 
This may be a silly question, but you DID knock the wedge down after getting the stem bolt to budge, right? Simply removing the bolt isn't enough. In the most extreme cases, I like to clamp the stem, inverted, in a large bench vise, then use a chunk of 2x4 to rock the fork from side-to-side until the rusty seal breaks. Looks like your lockring is toast--you'll probably have to cut it and use a replacement. They're common.

I struck the stem bolt a few times with a large mallet after first getting it to budge like you said. My plan is to cut the lock ring but I haven’t had the chance to try that yet. I had my little one in the garage and outside with me this weekend so I couldn’t use a saw. I did redo the rear RB2 hub on the wheels I picked up to use on this bike that came off another 66 Stingray. I took it completely apart, cleaned everything, did new grease and new bearings. So at least the project had some progress!
 
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