Regarding bumping ads in the classifed forums, we've just installed a new (customized) add-on that will change the way ads are bumped to the top. Please refer to the post "Bumping Classifed Ads" for details.
Sven...come to Velocipede Bike Project in Baltimore and we'll teach you all the ins & outs of building for a measly $10 shop fee. Shop nights can get pretty busy, but arrange something in advance and I'm sure one of the staff can accommodate you. My colleagues and I run their education program...
This is the font you're talking about, but I do not know the name. I'll try to track down a close match and will post here if I am successful.
EDIT: One similar (but not exact) free font is called "Bubble Gum."
If you only have a few dimples and want to do things on the cheap, make yourself a sand or shot bag out of an old leather couch cushion. Use the bag in place of a dolly to support the piece while you work out the blemish. The bag can conform to the basic shape of the part, in a way that a...
Looks like Niagara Cycle might be back in business, with a new owner and a new, awkward-to-type, branding--The-bike shop.com!
Here's the actual link to their site, but the familiar niagaracycles.com will re-direct you, as well.
When it comes to rusty stems and seatposts, patience is truly a virtue. Try to concentrate your applied force as close to the headset as possible--i.e. immobilize the fork at the crown, rather than the dropouts, so as not to risk twisting the blades. Lube and leverage are your friend. It may...
This may be a silly question, but you DID knock the wedge down after getting the stem bolt to budge, right? Simply removing the bolt isn't enough. In the most extreme cases, I like to clamp the stem, inverted, in a large bench vise, then use a chunk of 2x4 to rock the fork from side-to-side...
I think the original material was called Fabrikoid--produced by Dupont from nitrocellulose resin applied to cotton drill. It's been out of production for decades, but I think you're right that modern Tolex could be a convincing replacement.
I'd say to check either the left rear "dropout" (where the wheel gets bolted on) or under the central shell where the pedals are installed. We call that the "bottom bracket." In your particular case, the date can likely be narrowed down to the early 1970s, due to the BMA/6 label just below the...
For what it's worth, Park used to sell a tool (since discontinued) that would expand inside the seattube to provide a rugged clamping surface. Christened the ISC-4, I'm sure one would not be hard to find, if you had the desire.
When I encounter a problematic frame, I usually raise the saddle and clamp to the exposed seatpost. My Park stand closes small enough, but one could use some sort of shim, if it's needed. Two wooden V-blocks would do the job for me.
A collection of nine antique and vintage bikes located in northern Maryland. Most appear complete and in good survivor condition. Yes...there's an arch-bar in there. See more photos in the seller's ad.