What do you use to protect your leather Saddles?

[Chuck S]

My New Raleigh bike came with a leather saddle that is very similar to a Brooks B17. I like it and am considering a B17 for one of my other bikes. I am looking for suggestions for leather conditioner. My main concern is to protect the leather. The Raleigh saddle is still rock hard after 350 miles, but not uncomfortable. I don't want to rush the break in at the cost of longevity. I know Brooks sells Proofide, in those tiny tins, is there a good alternative you can easily get locally? Searching the web tells me some people use mink oil or Snoseal?

 

[Duchess]

The former reputedly over softens too much for a stretched bicycle saddle, but I've heard the latter is fine as well as obenauf's LP leather protectant. I use Proofide and a little tin lasts a long time. I don't know if your saddle has the cloth underside like the Cardiff one I have, but if it does, it might be made by the same company and by all appearances to me, will not break in and leather softener doesn't seem to penetrate the cloth.

 

[catfish]

Keep them on a shelf.

 

[Tim the Skid]

When we ride in wet weather, (which is often in Washington) we put shower caps over the seats to protect them. As far as conditioner, I've seen a light coat of saddle soap, or neutral shoe polish used.

 

[brwstrmgmt]

Try that Proofide on a "crusty bike" paint job and see what happens. It often brings dead paint to a semblance of life.

 

[fattyre]

I have a Brooks Professional with over 24,000 miles. I’ve done everything you should and shouldn’t do. 9 years later the saddle is just fine. It’s stretched out about 5/8 - 3/4 of the way, but that’s to be expected. The only disadvantage I’ve found is if you put too much Mink/Neatsfoot/Profhide/whatever oil on your saddle, it gets dirty and easily transfers to your Cotten pants/shorts/whatever therefore staining them.

The worst thing to do is nothing and let it dry out.

You can get real serious about your leather saddle, or you can abuse the crap out of it and have to spend a $150 on a new one every 5-7 years. Personally, I see leather saddles as a wear item that will eventually need replacement no matter how you treat it, unless you really don’t use them. Then can they can last quite a long time.

Also check out the spring chassis saddles. The springs are pretty firm and do a great job at taking the edge off the really rough bumps.

 

[schwinnbikebobb]

+1 on the Obenaufs. Feels very similar to Proofide. 8 oz for $17 8oz of Proofide would be about a thousand dollars!!!!! lol

Obenauf's Heavy-Duty Leather Preservative | Cabela's

Protect, preserve, restore, and add water repellency to your valued leather products with Obenauf's Heavy-Duty Leather Preservative. A great leather restorer for your hard working leather boots,...

www.cabelas.com

 

[Chuck S]

Thanks to all for your replies. Until today all I knew about Cardiff is what I heard on Dr. Who. No idea they made saddles. While the Raleigh saddle does have a cloth backing it is made in Taiwan, so not a Cardiff I think. I did realize I should look at the care manual that came with the saddle. It is as funny as it is useless. It says to use "saddle grease", and also points out the "leather is super clean, do not eat". Picture attached. So that saddle may never conform, but it is okay as is. No problems after a 2 hour ride. I do plan to get a Brooks B17 or Flyer for my other bike. Big decision is springs or not. I am going to order some Obenaufs to treat both.
Thanks again.
Chuck S

 

[Bozman]

To restore my dry saddles I use Picard's waterproof dressing. It's what most museums use to preserve and protect leather. For my Brooks riding saddles I just use proofride.

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

 

[bikejunk]

Also road a Brooks professional - never remember putting anything on it and it lasted my entire riding career - even in the rain . Notre cheap saddles I had earlier if they got wet once they turned to crap when they dried out - always buy the best