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Best glue for wood rim repair?

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Kombicol

Finally riding a big boys bike
I have a wood rim that needs to be re-glued at the joint.
Any recommendations on most suitable glue?
Thanks
Col
 
Hello! I'm in a similar situation with regards to wood rims. Some of mine are even splintered and cracked. I won't know for sure until I go and try it, but I am inclined to use Gorilla Brand wood glue. I have used this glue on other projects before, such as to repair the cracked steering handles on a sled, and a gun-stock to name a couple, and I was pleased with the results. The glue looked good, was not really even noticeable, and has held very strongly. It is water based, but when cured, does not appear water soluble from what I can tell. I would reckon this glue is not too unlike the glues used on these rims back when they were still being made. You just have to apply it generously and evenly, and then clamp the glue joint firmly and properly, as this glue expands into the grain for strength. I used a hose clamp and rag to clamp my joints.

This is just what I am thinking, and it would be good to hear what some other folks more experienced in this have to say. I'm not sure there are too many folks repairing and reworking these old wood rims these days. Many people use new aluminum rims painted in woodgrain, or use modern European-built wood rims intended for road bikes. However, I strongly recommend repairing and using original equipment and rims as much as possible, as even weathered and crooked rims should be capable of being made straight and usable again.
 
Being an old Carpenter I'm all in for Elmers, and from experience with the newcomer Gorilla glue I'm staying with Elmers. Gorilla is rated below Elmers and from my experience it's shelf life is quite a bit shorter than Elmers. Lots of new chemistry in glues today and if I were going to glue up a wood bike rim I would consider Titebond III simply because of the higher test ratings and waterproof bonds.

 
I have never repaired a wood rim, but as a professional furniture repair person, I would use 2-part epoxy(clear)...then cut/scrape excess with sharp razor blade after dry. If you make mistakes or need time to re-join and clamp the parts back together in place, use the 30-minute stuff and wait overnight. If no clamps are needed, wipe the excess uncured glue off with rubbing alcohol. Makes a good filler as well mixed with hardwood sanding dust.
(Edit: if a finger joint is the subject of your repair, use a super sharp exacto knife to remove any remnants of glue from the finger joint ends..this will prevent a good bond as the old glue will just release and the joinery will separate once again)
 
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For this application the glue should be waterproof so I would vote for epoxy or Tite Bond 3. I like clamps with wood pieces cut in a curve.
 
One thing to keep in mind about different kinds of glue, no matter which one is used, no glue will last long if it is squeezed out of the joint. Many times the natural thinking is, the tighter the clamping, the better the bond. When the joint is clamped excessively tight, then most of the glue gets squeezed out, leaving very little strength. The joint should be clamped tight, but not too tight. This is something I learned watching Norm Abram on The New Yankee Workshop tv program.
 
I have no experience with gluing wood rims, but I have made a good number of bows (archery). From that experience I think you have to consider the following. Glues are good for applications where no gap filling is required and the glue joint is with the long grain of the wood. The larger the surface area the better. I have used Titebond II for all my bows where the material is only wood with no problems.
Epoxy would be better choice for an end grain joint. It also will allow for gap filling. A slow set epoxy provides for the strongest joint. In bow making EA40 Smooth On brand epoxy is the most common choice. Cure time is about 24 hours, less if you use heat. For example at 180 degrees cure time is reduced to 4 hours. Typically used to laminate wood to fiberglass and also for wood to wood joints it provides for a strong shock resistant joint.
I have not had good results with Gorilla glue.
 
No experience with wood rim repair but in the bamboo rod making world, Titebond is getting pretty universally used, as far as clamping, if I am understanding the repair correctly, any closure pressure on a finger joint in a rim is likely going to be accomplished using a band clamp, I doubt you could apply enough pressure in that setting that would result in the bonded surfaces being "too tight", actually, I have never heard of a glue joint being clamped too tight, but you learn something new every day. Todd
 
I have repaired lots of wood rims over the years and have been using a product called System Three Resins inc. 2 part Epoxy Glue Any rims I have glued never came apart again Being in Ontario i get it at (Noahs boat works) in Toronto
 
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