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Wheel building class..How much would you pay?

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When I was around 12 I laced & trued my first pair of wheels by looking at a completed wheel for reference when lacing them & trial & error to true them. I’ve always eyeballed the dish, even on motorcycle wheels. Had to offset a couple of motorcycle wheels when converting from drum to disc brakes also.
 
I have been building wheels in bicycle shops since 1975. There are several key elements which make a big difference in overcoming potential building problems, especially in dishing.

Dishing rear wheels is a PITA but can be reduced to a minor irritation if approached in the right fashion. :sunglasses:

Assuming that you are dealing with a decent rim and the correct length of spokes, then the concept of centering the rear rim between the lock nuts (and not hub flanges) is the one thing to keep in mind throughout. Have I ever lost my concentration and moved the dish the wrong way...yes...it happens. Always put the wheel in the truing stand facing in same direction (I prefer the freewheel threads on the right when looking at it in the stand).

Here are some things you may find helpful.

The spoke threads, base of nipple heads, and rim spoke holes must all be properly lubricated before lacing.

Begin by tightening the nipples gradually and consistently by using the visible threads remaining as markers. When they disappear, count the number of nipple turns. Later, you may see the spoke end thought the end of the nipple slot and use that as a reference. The object is for all spokes nipples to be threaded the same distance - initially.

Detecting when the spokes begin to lose their initial slackness and start to move the rim is the point that makes all the difference in easier, accurate dishing, and removing/preventing rim "hop" (rim being out of round).

Spin the wheel and gun sight the rim in relation to the lock nuts and estimate where the rim will be properly dished. Using that reference, roughly true the wheel to that point using the least amount of tensioning as possible and then check the dish - the trueness does not need to be fine at this point as you are checking to see how close the dish is. It will be easy to make rim corrections at this point because of low spoke tension.

Once the wheel is close to being properly dished, then next adjust the hop without grossly affecting trueness. Then it is back and forth, keeping in mind that spokes on the right will be a lot tighter than the left side and the right side nipples will be harder to turn towards the end. As you are approaching optimum spoke tension, slightly over shooting the dish to the right (freewheel side) is a lot easier to correct than having it dished to far to the left.

Hope this helps!
Oh you should so do a video
 
A good wheel builder can throw one together in a matter of minutes. Just like getting to Carnegie Hall-"practice, practice practice!"
I think my average build takes 30/45 minutes including spoke prep time. I have had many take a "good" hour due to rim issues... :cool:

The toughest build in recent memory was a replacing a trashed rim w/Dyno hub for this black Raleigh Sport. Note the slotted spoke holes in the left hub flange. If you have done one of these you know the problem...lacing it is like playing Pick Up Stix until the spokes lose slack...

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I am a very novice newbie trying to acquire this skill.
Lessons I have learned from my mistakes I have made and great advice from @bikemonkey and the others here an Youtube.

Rule # 1...Distractions and interruptions - find time when 100% of your time and attention can be on the wheel, not having to do something else halfway through your progress.

Rule #2...Know when to stop - When someone and you have started drinking...stop, call it a day.

Rule #3...Check and Recheck - On old hubs constantly check for axle out of roundness. Taking the wheel in and out of truing stand to check dish or spoke stress releasing. I have found that at times the cone nut sometimes loosens . This causes a sloppy center for the wheel, which will definitely throw you off.

Rule #4..Face Reality - I have old bikes, the hubs and rims are old. I'm not going to have a smooth as silk rolling hub , like the modern high dollar race one and a my old rim is not with some defects.

Rule #5...A Skill Earned Not Born With...it takes a lot of time and practice

Rule #6...Don't Over Think It and relax - Its not the end of the world if you mess up . Don't rack your brain trying to think how are you going to fix it. There are people here that have the experience are probably more than happy get you through it. And when you have built your wheel .....you have saved about $100 doing it yourself
 
No, heck no. He sounds like an infomercial on a biking channel.

Youtube is your friend. Be patient. You don’t have to be the village expert. But it helps.
 
This is the school I was referring to.
I'm sure its grand, but I don't have 1/2 grand to spend on it. They offer a bike maintenance course as well...but it is geared toward new bikes not Classic and Antique
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