Thats a biggie 24" inch frame.
It (Suburban 10 speed) is exactly the same as the Varsity, EXCEPT THAT THE SUBURBAN HAS THE CONTINENTAL'S FRONT FORK. The Suburban has the same exact L.S. 2.4 weinmann sidepulls as the Varsity, while the Conti. has centerpulls.
You can significantly upgrade the SUBURBAN 10 speed by changing out it's freewheel and rear derailler for the better freewheel and far better rear derailleur that appears on the SUBURBAN 5 speed and 1970 and later Collegiate (before the FFS came in 1977-1978).
The 5 speed SUBURBAN (1970 - 1976) and COLLEGIATE of (1970 - 1977) have far superior Shimano built (model J) freewheels with a 32 teeth cog (1st gear, LOW GEAR) compared to the 28 teeth cog (1st gear, LOW GEAR) of the French made (model F) freewheel seen on Suburban 10 speed, the Varsity, and on the Continental.
The 5 speed SUBURBAN & Collegiate of 1970-1977 also have Shimano built for Schwinn rear derailleurs which are light years better than the Huret Allvit that VARSITY-CONTINENTAL & SUBURBAN 10 SPEED came with.*
* unless the Chicago production line was out of Allvits, then the Varsity...etc would temporarily receive the far superior Shimano built rear derailleur that went on the seventies era Collegiates & 5 speed Suburbans.
Shimano built GT-100 (1970 through 1973, and into Feb 1974)............Shimano built GT-120 (1974-1977)
These Shimano rear derailleurs reliably shift a 32 teeth cog. None of the European rear derailleurs can reliably shift anything beyond a 28 teeth cog.
If it ain't broke, there is no need to swap it out, as the Huret Allvit is Europe's best overall rear derailleur, although it is not even close to the quality of anything from Shimano from 1968 onward or Maeda SUNTOUR 1970 onward.
I'd rather have the reliabilty and shift quality of a Japanese rear derailleur, but then I ride longer distances on rides than most people do. European front derailleur is fine, but you won't catch me riding any multi speed, derailleured bicycle with a European made rear derailleur. Here comes the Sun tour......european is Do Do.........for more than fifty years this has been clear.
To find a perfect fit RED fender reflector:
Go to Ebay and search all categories for: 41mm reflector
You should see about eight or more different Chinese vendors that carry these generic round red 41mm reflectors with an integral threaded stud and nut. These are the exact size to replace the missing original assuming that original stamped steel chromed mounting bezel still remains on the fender (YOURS STILL HAS IT). What you do is simply remove the existing Schwinn carriage bolt holding this bezel in place......there is a square flat steel retaining "nut" than can be screwed off with needle nose pliers. THE INTEGRAL STUD ON THE 41mm CHINESE REFLECTOR IS THE PERFECT DIAMETER TO FIT IN PLACE OF THE ORIGINAL SCHWINN CARRIAGE BOLT.
*******THE ONLY THING IS THIS INTEGRAL STUD IS APPROXIMATELY about 4mm TOO LONG, IN MY OPINION.
Here is how to cut down this threaded integral stud on this CHINESE REFLECTOR to the perfect length for your application.
TEST THE FIT LENGTH BEFORE DETERMINING HOW MUCH TO CUT OFF*
You need a piece of metal scrap like a lid from a vegetable or bean can.......the lid that your can opener removes from the can. WHY DO YOU NEED THIS SCRAP? Well, you need it because you punch a hole in the scrap metal piece (here we use a can lid...but anything similar or wood scrap like piece of a wooden yardstick etc will do..)
You punch a hole in the scrap big enough to mount the reflector to the piece of scrap, so then you can clamp the scrap piece securely in your vise SO THAT YOU CAN CUT A LITTLE BIT AS NECESSARY FROM THE LENGTH of the integral stud.
You do it this way BECAUSE if you attempt to just clamp the reflector in the vice, you will destroy the reflector as it will get marred up........Just bolt the 41mm chinese reflector securely/firmly to a scrap piece so that you can mount the scrap between the jaws of the vice. IF YOU ARE USING A HAND HACKSAW, YOU MAY NEED A VERY STIFF CAN LID OR MULTIPLE STACKED CAN LIDS, or a more rigid-stiffer piece of metal scrap.........
****Don't risk your fingers by trying to cut off the small amount while holding the reflector with one hand and having the other hand working the Dremel tool with cut off wheel. The extra five minutes that it takes to scrounge up a piece of scrap to have your vice hold the Reflector is good insurance that you don't lose the use of a finger.
You'll see the 41mm Red reflector that I'm talking about that is a near perfect match.
I have replaced a bunch of them on fenders that had the reflector gone.
These chinese vendors typically sell them in at least a quantity of two reflectors.
Be sure to get the proper red ones with a silver perimeter outer just like how the originals are because these Chinese vendors offer these reflectors in ORANGE too, and sometimes they have them packaged for sale as two reds. or one red and one orange. All of them will comply with selling you both reds, or whatever multiple qty that you wish IF YOU DON'T READILY SEE A LISTING ALREADY THERE.
You should find them for somewhere around five bucks total for a qty of two with free shipping to the usa.
I got them a few years ago for about four bucks total, so they should not be too much more today.
They are great quality reflectors and are perfect once you address the extra length on the integral stud.
My practice is to put a tiny drop of mixed 5 minute clear epoxy on the threads/nut so as not to worry about needing a lockwasher.
It ain't comin' off, or ever getting loose and rattling back there with a little tiny bit of epoxy there.
You can probably if you wanted to, just use the 41mm Chinese reflector as is , and it probably might give ya enough clearance between the tire, but it will look like a really half-baked attempt if someone sees that part of the inner rear fender. The person seeing an otherwise great bike will wonder why on earth did they leave it poking out like that when they could have easily trimmed it to appear like the factory might have done it.
