Schwinn Sprint freewheel removal

[rickpaulos]

Per the old Schwinn Repair Manuals, you can also try using a #8 easy-out screw extractor. Search the CABE and it will come up in various threads. Also can goggle it to find pictured instruction in the Schwinn manual circa 1970-ish. The extractor works, and it will prevent the pealing of the soft metal prongs. Once the prongs are pealed, you have no other choice than to use the extractor.

There are other methods. A bit more destructive but if the notches are gone, it's already ruined. One I've done a few times is remove the bearing race, watch the many tiny bearings fall out, lift the outer body and cogs off and put the threaded portion of the body in a vise or use a large plumbers pipe wrench.

I saw a guy weld a steel bar to the freewheel to use a long lever. First pass to weld the freewheel in to a fixed state, then a bar welded across the front to use as a lever. He ruined the ruined freewheel but it came off quite easily.

 

[MN_Schwinn]

One I've done a few times is remove the bearing race, watch the many tiny bearings fall out, lift the outer body and cogs off and put the threaded portion of the body in a vise or use a large plumbers pipe wrench.

I have also removed a freewheel exactly how you describe above. It definitely works and prevents from stripping the 2-prong base. The downfall is, as you described, ball bearings fall out. You are also stuck with the task of re-setting the pawl springs when reassembling the freewheel. It's not easy and takes patience.

 

[one-eyed sailor]

Wow. Excellent.

 

[Drosentreter]

-----

thank you for the good images

this is a notched Atom

it is important to select a remover for it which exhibits a guide ring

there are removers which fit the notches but lack the guide ring

these are dangerous to employ as they can shift under load rendering damage to the removal "ears" of the freewheel body

several companies offer good ones

as an example here is the one from Bicycle Research Products of Concord California

View attachment 1719396

VAR, Park, Schwinn & others also offer removers for this gear block which incorporate a guide ring


-----

I can’t seem to find this tool, do you think you could post a link?

 

[GTs58]

I can’t seem to find this tool, do you think you could post a link?

Are you dealing with the old Atom two notch free wheel? Or possibly one that looks like it?

 

[Drosentreter]

Are you dealing with the old Atom two notch free wheel? Or possibly one that looks like it?

Yep. On a 5 speed 1967 Schwinn Tandem.

 

[GTs58]

U

Yep. On a 5 speed 1967 Schwinn Tandem.

The free wheel on that bike should be a splined sprint branded atom. And it would take an FR 4 tool

 

[Drosentreter]

U

The free wheel on that bike should be a splined sprint branded atom. And it would take an FR for tool

I’ll take a picture. It’s not splined.

 

[WillWork4Parts]

If you have it that far apart, you are in the home stretch... depending on a couple of things.
Are you worried about damaging it? Or do you have a vise with smooth jaws, perhaps aluminum inserts?
Also, are you planning to put it back together? ...are you patient and meticulous enough?

 

[WillWork4Parts]

If you do plan on putting it back together, mind the pawl springs and clamp the pawl cutouts in the flat jaw of your vise, twist, done. 2 flat pieces of aluminum(say 1/8") can be used to safely guard your freewheel race(pawl cutouts) from being bent over or mauled by textured vise jaws. It requires a fair amount of clamping force to do it this way, so beware a harbor freight vise may not survive.