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Bendix Yellow Band will not shift into High - Any experts out there ??!!!

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I’ve always coated all parts with Phil Wood( and high temp on the brakes with no issues but see how too much grease could keep that indexing spring from rotating correctly. I’ve had this hub apart and put back together multiple times now trying to diagnose and most of the “extra” grease is gone . I will however try cleaning the grease off and using some Dumond oil instead !
Will report back with updates ! Thanx !
 
I’ve always coated all parts with Phil Wood( and high temp on the brakes with no issues but see how too much grease could keep that indexing spring from rotating correctly. I’ve had this hub apart and put back together multiple times now trying to diagnose and most of the “extra” grease is gone . I will however try cleaning the grease off and using some Dumond oil instead !
Will report back with updates ! Thanx !
I was referring to the retarder spring that is attached to the transfer spring. Forgive me, I don't have a manual in front of me for proper nomenclature. It's the spiral spring that fits in that broken window you were talking about. Lol
If you say it works out of the shell, that changes things. I would have said check all 6 tangs on the index spring, but that probably rules both of those out.

I highly doubt the hub shell is that worn out, but I would swap one part at a time from a known good hub until you get a fix. One at a time so you know exactly what part to buy.

The last thing that I found doing that was defective threads on the Reproduction Eagle brand kickback clutch. It would actuate in hand out of the shell, but there was a bur in the thread just in the right spot where it would keep it away from grabbing the internal surface of the hub.
1760332

It was listed as NOS non functional, for parts. I bought it for the trouble shooting exercise. Replaced the bad part with an original part and it works just fine now.
1760333


I'd swap that part out first. Let us know what you find!
 
WW4P, did your defective clutch part still sit flush on the High speed drive ( part with the sprocket / Indexing spring ) when shifted into high?
I will definitely keep you'all posted! Nice looking blue band !!
1672583837120.png
 
Are you building the sub assemblies then installing them or are you trying to build everything in the shell?
You said you replaced the retarder coupling, did you notice one window is higher then the other? Its that way to match the spring AB23A. That coupler is critical in holding the retarder together. If a window is broken it will not shift.
Is the indexing spring installed the right way? Or does it need to be flipped around?
 
Thanks for the reply RK !
Are you building the sub assemblies then installing them or are you trying to build everything in the shell?
Both
You said you replaced the retarder coupling, did you notice one window is higher then the other?
Yes
Its that way to match the spring AB23A. That coupler is critical in holding the retarder together. If a window is broken it will not shift.
Is the indexing spring installed the right way?

Yes
Or does it need to be flipped around?
No
 
I made some discoveries this morning but still have questions. I used the working Yellow Band on my "rider"( 68' Coppertone Typhoon ) for comparisons I'll call that YB#2 and the non working YB#1.
I put all of the parts from the YB#2 in the hub of YB#1 and everything worked good.
Next I put the clutch assembly (pic) from YB#2 in YB#1 using all of the other YB#1 parts and it worked good
1672595487710.png

Next I put only the High Speed clutch from YB#2 in YB#1 and it worked good ! So this tells us that the High speed clutch from YB#1 is bad. But what is bad about it ?? I measured a bunch of points and they are all pretty close. The YB#1 High Speed Clutch is on the left in pic, good one from YB#2 on the right.
1672595926651.png


Problem is I tried the "bad" high speed clutch in YB#2's shell and parts and it worked fine ! So maybe its a combo of YB #1's shell and High Speed Clutch ?
 
WW4P, did your defective clutch part still sit flush on the High speed drive ( part with the sprocket / Indexing spring ) when shifted into high?
I will definitely keep you'all posted! Nice looking blue band !!
View attachment 1760886
Yes, it would drive flush by hand, but the designed(still new) spring forces weren't enough to overcome the bur that was something like a double cut thread I guess. It drove me nuts, taking apart, removing grease, finding nothing broken, functioning out of the shell, put back together and not working. I knew the problem was that high speed clutch was not engaging the hub shell, swapped retarder spring, no help. It's usually index or retarder spring on the used hubs, or something painfully obvious. I think I tried to take dimensions with each clutch installed separately in the hub and couldn't achieve any consistent measurement. With no way of measuring the matched taper in the hub, I took a break from it. Came back a week later and tried an original index spring, no help. Cleaned the clutch again and sat it next to an original Bendix part, found differences in appearance but not in outside dimensions. Finally clicked to just try swapping the clutch and it worked. No need for measuring. After that I took it back apart to study and plot it's demise...lol....felt the sharpness in the thread.

If yours acts up again, I'd replace the retarder spring. Maybe it's just on it's last leg and doesn't like the grease stealing what little friction it has left to supply. Take pictures of the grooves inside the clutch that grab the index spring this time.
 
Yes, it would drive flush by hand, but the designed(still new) spring forces weren't enough to overcome the bur that was something like a double cut thread I guess. It drove me nuts, taking apart, removing grease, finding nothing broken, functioning out of the shell, put back together and not working. I knew the problem was that high speed clutch was not engaging the hub shell, swapped retarder spring, no help. It's usually index or retarder spring on the used hubs, or something painfully obvious. I think I tried to take dimensions with each clutch installed separately in the hub and couldn't achieve any consistent measurement. With no way of measuring the matched taper in the hub, I took a break from it. Came back a week later and tried an original index spring, no help. Cleaned the clutch again and sat it next to an original Bendix part, found differences in appearance but not in outside dimensions. Finally clicked to just try swapping the clutch and it worked. No need for measuring. After that I took it back apart to study and plot it's demise...lol....felt the sharpness in the thread.

If yours acts up again, I'd replace the retarder spring. Maybe it's just on it's last leg and doesn't like the grease stealing what little friction it has left to supply. Take pictures of the grooves inside the clutch that grab the index spring this time.
So when you say bur on the "threads" do you mean a bur on the inner grooves the Indexing spring paws ( upper ) ride on on the High Speed clutch?
If mix and match parts = both working. I'd be happy with that. 👍👍
J-dub, I thought about just going with that ! But I still want to understand exactly whats happening here, plus I want to be sure the hub will perform / work since I'm going through the trouble to build nice new wheels. All of my builds are riders that get a lot of use !!
 
I shot this vid so I'll add it here,It shows the gears shifting correctly but its still does not work in the shell. Edit -Ive reloaded this vid here and it wont work on my screen, but the youtube page works.
 
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