Repainting white enamel S7's help / suggestions

[spleeft]

Update:
I finally got around to attempting to paint the black lines using the stencils I purchased from ebay with so so results. The second wheel came out much better than the first probably from just learning to use the stencil better. In fact the stencils would probably work great if I actually knew what I was doing. Next time , if there is a next time because Im not sure how these wheels will hold up with continuous use , I'll try the Beugler ! I'm not sure what color spokes / nips I'll go with if you'all have any suggestions !!!
I have a Bendix 2 speed auto red band I just finished overhauling / restoring I plan on using.

 

[Schwinn Sales West]

Best to use One Shot sign lettering paint. It's a slow dry enamel, and will flow out overnight eliminating the brush marks etc. If you screw up, just wipe it off with some reducer and start over. Available at many places and comes in lots of colors. A small half pint size will last forever. When you consider all of the prep time, and the material cost, to me it just makes sense to use the best available materials. One thing you don't want to do is have your tubular rims vatted because they don't get all of the acid out.

Lots of advantages to using a "two part" catalyzed base color on the rim. I'm talking an automotive quality paint with an activator/Hardner added before it's sprayed. This is not a BC/CC Base coat, Clear coat type paint, just a single stage everyday paint with a Hardner added. Since the paint is chemically cured and hard in 12 hours, it allows you to screw up your pinstripe and wipe it off while still wet with a rag dampened with some enamel reducer. Frankly, with today's costs of paint and materials, powder coating is very hard to beat because they also do the blasting. Lots of powder colors available. One thing about powder coating to remember is some of it (maybe most of it) is NOT UV safe and will chalk if left in extended sun.

3M sells a plastic FineLine masking tape. Available at auto paint stores or online. It's much better than any blue big box store 3M paper masking tape. It's not cheap at around $15 to $20 per roll but hey, IT WORKS! Make sure not to stretch it while applying. The adhesive will separate from the backing if pulled "too tight". It comes in all the width sizes. Take the tape and apply where you want the strip. Place more of the Fineline tape on each side of the original tape. Then pull up the first piece and brush hand paint the space in between with the slow drying One Shot enamel. The drying times will vary due to temp and humidity, but you want to pull the Fineline border tapes "before the paint is fully dry" (just set up) Usually an hour or two here in SoCal. weather. This will allow the paint demarcation edge to dry and by the next day it looks like you had it professionally stripped. Practice your system first on a sheet of metal. This is how I do the graphics on my Vintage Camper Trailers.

John

 

[spleeft]

Thanks John for all the killer info !

 

[coasterbrakejunkie1969]

Best to use One Shot sign lettering paint. It's a slow dry enamel, and will flow out overnight eliminating the brush marks etc. If you screw up, just wipe it off with some reducer and start over. Available at many places and comes in lots of colors. A small half pint size will last forever. When you consider all of the prep time, and the material cost, to me it just makes sense to use the best available materials. One thing you don't want to do is have your tubular rims vatted because they don't get all of the acid out.

Lots of advantages to using a "two part" catalyzed base color on the rim. I'm talking an automotive quality paint with an activator/Hardner added before it's sprayed. This is not a BC/CC Base coat, Clear coat type paint, just a single stage everyday paint with a Hardner added. Since the paint is chemically cured and hard in 12 hours, it allows you to screw up your pinstripe and wipe it off while still wet with a rag dampened with some enamel reducer. Frankly, with today's costs of paint and materials, powder coating is very hard to beat because they also do the blasting. Lots of powder colors available. One thing about powder coating to remember is some of it (maybe most of it) is NOT UV safe and will chalk if left in extended sun.

3M sells a plastic FineLine masking tape. Available at auto paint stores or online. It's much better than any blue big box store 3M paper masking tape. It's not cheap at around $15 to $20 per roll but hey, IT WORKS! Make sure not to stretch it while applying. The adhesive will separate from the backing if pulled "too tight". It comes in all the width sizes. Take the tape and apply where you want the strip. Place more of the Fineline tape on each side of the original tape. Then pull up the first piece and brush hand paint the space in between with the slow drying One Shot enamel. The drying times will vary due to temp and humidity, but you want to pull the Fineline border tapes "before the paint is fully dry" (just set up) Usually an hour or two here in SoCal. weather. This will allow the paint demarcation edge to dry and by the next day it looks like you had it professionally stripped. Practice your system first on a sheet of metal. This is how I do the graphics on my Vintage Camper Trailers.

John

Wow, the amount of useful, detailed information you have provided in just a few days is fantastic. Some members will not read more than one paragraph regardless of the quality of the info. I find myself reading and rereading your post completely, really great stuff. You are an asset to the site.

 

[spleeft]

Update, I assembled the rear wheel and touched up a little paint. I think after a little use and road wear they will look perfect ! The spoke holes show a little chipping but over all I love these and cant wait to put them on a cruiser build and rip down the road!!!!

 

[spleeft]

They look nice on my latest project, 1967 Violet Hollywood for the wifes main rider.

 

[spleeft]

Update,
Took her for a test ride with the repainted/rebuilt white s7s. Puuurrrrrrrrred like a kitten !!

 

[Porkchop & Applesauce]

Good morning Caber’s!
As always….great tips! Here’s my two cents worth. When I first became a cabe member I was looking at a toc thread. One of the members had posted an old ad for a company that made the wood rims. They used three colors on the rim. I mimic that paint style on my phantom’s s2’s. I used rattle can paint and masking tape to do them. What I learned was to let the paint cure for about a month before using the next color so it would harden properly. Painted with primer then black then white down the middle then the red then clear coat. Yup…took forever but turned out well.

 

[spleeft]

Lots of advantages to using a "two part" catalyzed base color on the rim. I'm talking an automotive quality paint with an activator/Hardner added before it's sprayed. This is not a BC/CC Base coat, Clear coat type paint, just a single stage everyday paint with a Hardner added. Since the paint is chemically cured and hard in 12 hours, it allows you to screw up your pinstripe and wipe it off while still wet with a rag dampened with some enamel reducer. Frankly, with today's costs of paint and materials, powder coating is very hard to beat because they also do the blasting. Lots of powder colors available. One thing about powder coating to remember is some of it (maybe most of it) is NOT UV safe and will chalk if left in extended sun.
John

Have you ever used 2k Duraspray, opinions? I have an old Fleet frame Ive sandblasted to paint. thanks for all of the killer info !

 

[Velos]

Good thread and nice looking results. FWIW - I've used Testors Light Ivory model paint and mixed with RustOleum white for touchups. I can barely find the spots now.