CHAINS WITHOUT A MASTER LINK

[Schwinn Sales West]

As already mentioned, ALL derailleur equipped bikes use an "endless" style chain without a master link to take it apart like on a coaster chain. The derailleur style chains are much more flexible from the "side to side" movement to allow for the gear shifting.

If your going to play with geared bikes you need a chain tool. Even an old Cyclo chain tool will work.

NEVER, NEVER, NEVER use the Snap-On link that comes in the box with a new chain, toss them out. Just measure the chain, cut to the proper length, and use your chain tool to press out the pin "halfway", assemble the chain, press the pin back in. Take the link you just assembled position it 90 degrees and flex the link to loosen it up. If you skip the last step of loosening up the stiff link it will not shift properly.

Motorcycle chains are pin pressed the exact same way.

John

 

[AndyA]

thanks. I did same and just bought a new chain w/link

Cousin Tom:
No need to buy a new chain if existing chain is in decent shape. Remove a link with a chain tool and replace it with a "missing link." A chain tool will set you back between $10 and $20 and will pay for itself if you use it twice. A missing link will cost somewhere around $5. Have fun!

 

[AndyA]

NEVER, NEVER, NEVER use the Snap-On link that comes in the box with a new chain, toss them out. Just measure the chain, cut to the proper length, and use your chain tool to press out the pin "halfway", assemble the chain, press the pin back in.

How come never, never, never use links? The use of missing links (or power links) seems to be widespread. Also, I've read that a pin shouldn't be reused because it is slightly reduced in diameter when it is pressed out and may fail. Recommendation is to use a new pin.

 

[tomtr6]

Good advice I did not know that. I do have a chain tool purchased recently. I will test out in Spring and figure what to do. Love this site!

 

[J-wagon]

NEVER, NEVER, NEVER use the Snap-On link that comes in the box with a new chain, toss them out

Interesting. I use master links come with chain (kmc, shimano, sram) No issues. Skiptooth chain master links too.

 

[Schwinn Sales West]

Interesting. I use master links come with chain (kmc, shimano, sram) No issues. Skiptooth chain master links too.

First we are talking only 1/2" by 3/32" chain.

Coaster brakes with 3/16" by 1", and 1/2" by 1/8" hubs with two or three internal gears are not included in my comment. Two- or three-piece common snap master links are fine for these "non derailleur" applications.

If you need to use a 1/2" by 3/32" quick link (we called them Super Links) to fix a broken chain during a ride to get home great. IMO, it's like squirting the green Slime into your bicycle tube to fix a flat. These type fixes are best used for emergencies on the road. If you're working at your shop, you want to do only the best practice type repairs.

60 years ago, this July, I lost a State Championship Road race as a 15 year old junior rider. In a final sprint, the Regina chain broke at "the supplied" master link, the broken end of the chain wrapped around the Campagnolo derailleur and sucked the rear derailleur into the rear wheel spokes. That was the last time I ever used a master link on a derailleur geared bike.

If you look closely at the cross section of a chain pin it is mushroomed on each end of the pin after the chain side plates are assembled. The master links are not mushroomed the same on both ends because it would be too hard to align and easily press the side plate on. There's really no good reason to use a connecting master link on a derailleur. In the past 60 years working as a bicycle dealer, and also as a service manager in a large volume motorcycle dealership I have installed hundreds of chains, None with master links.

Determine the chain length you need. Use a chain press tool to press the pin out. It's VERY IMPORTANT how far you press the pin out. Too far is bad. You want it to still be left in just enough to hook the chain back together. This method removes all of the alignment issues. Use the same chain press tool to push the pin back into the link. You will end up with a stiff link. You have to address this stiff link or you will have shifting problems. Find the stiff link, position the stiff link at 90 degrees to the other chain links, using two hands and your thumbs flex the chain back and forth (side to side) one time, it will then move freely. It's a two-minute job after you have done it a few times.

I have never had a chain fail using this method.

You also need to measure if the used chain you are installing is "stretched" before it's re-installed. This is another discussion topic if anyone is interested. They wear and stretch a lot! You will quickly wear out the smallest sprocket on your rear cluster riding with a worn-out chain. The small sprocket is just trying to wear to match the longer pitch of the worn chain.

John

 

[Schwinn Sales West]

How come never, never, never use links? The use of missing links (or power links) seems to be widespread. Also, I've read that a pin shouldn't be reused because it is slightly reduced in diameter when it is pressed out and may fail. Recommendation is to use a new pin.

The link pin is not reduced in diameter during the press process. The side plate hole diameter is what would be the issue as it's much thinner than the pin. It's almost impossible to press just a loose pin into a side plate after it's been mushroomed during the manufacture. It's a good way to break your chain tool pin because it will slip off to the side.

Please read my longer explanation above.

Thanks
John

 

[J-wagon]

If you need to use a 1/2" by 3/32" quick link (we called them Super Links) to fix a broken chain during a ride to get home great

Yup, even on casual rides chains can break on any link, master or non, many reasons. Ironically, I've never snapped quick linked chain in mtb xc racing or casual riding. I have snapped chains but it was old skiptooth.