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Paint Gurus???

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SamG

Finally riding a big boys bike
I don’t know if this is the appropriate section for this topic but I’m in the process of painting and wish to apply decals. Searching Google I find a variety of conflicting information so I thought I’d seek somebody here with first hand experience. I’m using rattle cans of Rust Oleum oil base enamel and applying vinyl (both stickers as well as transfer decals). I also wish to clear coat over the decal. The largest decal is 3”x1” Few questions….

1) Cure time to safely apply sticker/decal? I’m hearing as long as 30 days or more to fully cure and avoid outgassing, etc… The people at Rust Oleum advised to consult with the decal supplier. One said 30 days… the other said 2 days. I’m guessing 30 is safer!!!! I’m not only concern with proper outgassing but also with the paint delaminating as I peel the decal backing.

2) I’m assuming decals adhere better to a gloss finish as opposed to a matte finish?!?

3) Do they adhere any differently to paint vs. clear coat? I’m asking because I’d like to spray my clear within the magic hour then apply the decal at a later time with more clear over that. Or… should I hold off on the clear altogether and adhere the decals directly to the painted surface before spraying clear?

4) Or am I splitting hairs?
 
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I think you are splitting hairs. I would apply the decals after the paint dries thouroughly. Then let them set up for 2 days and then apply a setting solution. I would bag the clearcoat.
 
I think you are splitting hairs. I would apply the decals after the paint dries thouroughly. Then let them set up for 2 days and then apply a setting solution. I would bag the clearcoat.
Thanks!! Have you used the decals setting solution?
 
In my limited experience, I was working with single stage enamel, to achieve an original factory like finish.
Then I used an automotive grade, clear coat on the water slide type decals, while they were still on the paper.
I let those dry thoroughly, and then applied them in a normal fashion as instructed by the decal manufacturer and the maker of the setting solution. (Micro Set/Sol)
In my opinion, the setting solution is the key to achieving an OEM application.
It’s easy to use, and very forgiving.
Once all the steps are followed, the finished product is a smooth/nearly indestructible graphic detail, that with closely resemble the original factory appearance.
Clearing over the whole surface after the decal had been applied, will give it that 80’s over restored look.
But, that’s just me!
If that’s the look you’re after, then, go for it.
 
Yes i have used the same solution Marty mentions above. It works great when i used it.
 
Neither of you have experienced any issues applying before the magic 30 day cure period?
 
Rustoveragain makes many different types of spray paint. Read the instructions and see what it says for recoat time after your magic 1 hour git-er-dun recoat time. The recoat time will vary depending on the type of paint and it's chemical make-up. If it says 48 hours, then your good to install your decals after the said 48 hour recoat time. One of the biggest mistakes people make with painting is applying the paint too damn thick. That causes issues like slow drying, cracking and chipping off.

I’m not only concern with proper outgassing but also with the paint delaminating as I peel the decal backing.

I take it you have never installed waterslide decals? Or are you talking about stencils? ^^^^
 
When you consider the time required to properly prep for paint, the cost to purchase the pre-cleaning chemicals, sanding, taping, and clean up materials. Then you have the cost of trimming, pin strip, lettering, and reproduction decals. The actual cost of the paint becomes a small part of the overall cost of refinish. I'm not saying that paint is cheap, it's expensive. It's just a small part of your total cost.

Considering the expense, and the labor required, I do not understand why spray cans are used. They might be fast and easy, but not cheap. Then you have the normal quarts and gallons of Rustoleum enamel that used to be cheap, not any longer. The problem is that it is not a two-part paint (with a hardener) and remains soft to common chemicals. It is not UV safe to the sun rays. I would at the very least thin it down with some acetone as your spraying to force it to dry. I use gallons of Rustoleum enamel "under" my trailers, it's not a quality top coat product.

So, where is this going? You need to use at least an automotive quality paint material. There's lots of different choices. Marty talked about Single Stage paint in post #4. A quality single stage paint is not just one ingredient it has two or three components mixed together. Most single stage paints have the base color, then you add an activator, then add a hardener. After it's all mixed together, you have a working time limit (listed in your material data sheets) until it all hardens. This time limit will vary depending on the ambient temperature, and the surface temperature

You have lots of things that will help you obtain a nice finish by going to an automotive finish. For one, you can adjust the drying time by adjusting the speed of the reducer and how fast it flashes off. That way you eliminate the dry overspray areas. You do not have these options when using a spray can. You can get very close to replicating a factory "opaque color" finish by using a single stage paint. If you're needing to do a translucent/candy color (Flamboyant/Radiant/Campus Green/Sierra Brown/Violet/ETC color) I'd go with a BC/CC (base coat / clear coat) type paint product.

It's very difficult to "get or give" paint advice because of the differences between paint lines available to you from state to state. The reason for these differences is your states air quality regulations. Even in the same state, you have different regulations in different counties. You need to visit your local automotive paint store, they have tons of experience, and can advise you on the best, and least expensive to obtain you desired finish. Here in Southern California, we are allowed to spray one quart of paint per day as a noncommercial homeowner. One quart of mixed paint is enough to paint a dozen bicycles. It goes a very long way.

If you do not have a good local commercial paint store, TCP Global, and SPI are good internet mail order sources for quality paint primers and top coats.

John
 
Rustoveragain makes many different types of spray paint. Read the instructions and see what it says for recoat time after your magic 1 hour git-er-dun recoat time. The recoat time will vary depending on the type of paint and it's chemical make-up. If it says 48 hours, then your good to install your decals after the said 48 hour recoat time. One of the biggest mistakes people make with painting is applying the paint too damn thick. That causes issues like slow drying, cracking and chipping off.

I’m not only concern with proper outgassing but also with the paint delaminating as I peel the decal backing.

I take it you have never installed waterslide decals? Or are you talking about stencils? ^^^^
I never heard the term water slide decal until last night when I started googling the setting.

I’m one who applies thick coats. The first coat I just speckle on for some bite. But aftat I have a tendency to spray thick and probably don’t allow enough time between coats.
 
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