Rudge Sport information

[SirMike1983]

Correct, the dropouts on your Rudge are pinched tube ends from and older generation of production. The other Rudge has the cut-off type fork blade tubes with a circular insert brazed into the tube (you see these more as you go into the 1950s).

Some of the pre-war and early post-war front forks required a particular type of front hub with flanges and a slightly smaller OLD. There were changes to the hubs and forks that took place through the 1950s and into the 1960s. Is this a front wheel from a later bike you are trying to fit, or did it come with that?

 

[CTony]

Correct, the dropouts on your Rudge are pinched tube ends from and older generation of production. The other Rudge has the cut-off type fork blade tubes with a circular insert brazed into the tube (you see these more as you go into the 1950s).

Some of the pre-war and early post-war front forks required a particular type of front hub with flanges and a slightly smaller OLD. There were changes to the hubs and forks that took place through the 1950s and into the 1960s. Is this a front wheel from a later bike you are trying to fit, or did it come with that?

No,I was trying wheels from 69-74.So I’m not sure what type of hub will fit correctly.Fork opening 90mm.Any ideas?Thanks for responding back.

 

[atilly]

@CTony The exact problem you are trying to solve is still a mystery to me. I realize you said "It won't fit" but that is quite vague. Here is my take: The hub you are using has the correct over-locknut-dimension, just slightly wider than the fork tips.

I see on the locknuts of the wheel you are trying to use what amounts to a secondary retention device. For this hub to work, given it has protruding portions of the outer locknuts, there has to be a matching receiving space in the fork tips.

This raised ring on your hub needs somewhere to go:

Here is a photo of a fork that would work with the hub you are trying to fit:

To get your hub to work in the Rudge fork tips (no special receiving space like pictured above) you could: 1) replace the hub locknuts with ones that are simple and flat, or 2) Drill, Dremel, or file out a round receiving space for the hub you have.

 

[CTony]

@CTony The exact problem you are trying to solve is still a mystery to me. I realize you said "It won't fit" but that is quite vague. Here is my take: The hub you are using has the correct over-locknut-dimension, just slightly wider than the fork tips.

I see on the locknuts of the wheel you are trying to use what amounts to a secondary retention device. For this hub to work, given it has protruding portions of the outer locknuts, there has to be a matching receiving space in the fork tips.

This raised ring on your hub needs somewhere to go:

View attachment 1528114

Here is a photo of a fork that would work with the hub you are trying to fit:

View attachment 1528113

To get your hub to work in the Rudge fork tips (no special receiving space like pictured above) you could: 1) replace the hub locknuts with ones that are simple and flat, or 2) Drill, Dremel, or file out a round receiving space for the hub you have.

Thank you.I was already thinking of opening fork openings to except hub.I’m thinking taking just enough off so locknuts can be still used.Raleigh has only one adjustment side.I Thank you for your time

 

[SirMike1983]

Exactly - at some point fairly early after WWII they changed the dropouts. This thread contains an example of each type - the old pinched tube type, the type where the tube was cut across and then a plug-style dropout was brazed in, and finally the type where a slot was cut in the end of the tube and the dropout was brazed into the slot.

The plug type and some of the later slot types are keyholed. The hole accepts the ridge the in the cone top. This was an early adjustment and safety feature that provided for a positive pop-in position for the front wheel. The down side is that Raleigh changed the design a couple of times such that some wheels won't pop into some of the forks, particularly if you try to use a ridged cone hub on a fork not meant to take it.

Filing the dropouts is an option only up to a point on a pinched tube type fork because if you have to file a lot, you actually could file into the hollow part of the tube. It's easier on a plug or slot brazed type fork because the dropout is solid steel. So if you're going to file, be very careful and proceed slowly. Another option might be to try to locate a period wheel and hub, so in this case probably something from right after WWII. It's not easy to find those in good condition. Most of the stuff we find today in the US is from the 1960s-70s. I don't think a little work on the fork is totally wrong, but as I said, it should not involve a large amount of filing.

 

[CTony]

Exactly - at some point fairly early after WWII they changed the dropouts. This thread contains an example of each type - the old pinched tube type, the type where the tube was cut across and then a plug-style dropout was brazed in, and finally the type where a slot was cut in the end of the tube and the dropout was brazed into the slot.

The plug type and some of the later slot types are keyholed. The hole accepts the ridge the in the cone top. This was an early adjustment and safety feature that provided for a positive pop-in position for the front wheel. The down side is that Raleigh changed the design a couple of times such that some wheels won't pop into some of the forks, particularly if you try to use a ridged cone hub on a fork not meant to take it.

Filing the dropouts is an option only up to a point on a pinched tube type fork because if you have to file a lot, you actually could file into the hollow part of the tube. It's easier on a plug or slot brazed type fork because the dropout is solid steel. So if you're going to file, be very careful and proceed slowly. Another option might be to try to locate a period wheel and hub, so in this case probably something from right after WWII. It's not easy to find those in good condition. Most of the stuff we find today in the US is from the 1960s-70s. I don't think a little work on the fork is totally wrong, but as I said, it should not involve a large amount of filing.

SirMike I Don’t mind searching for a front hub.But what I’m i exactly looking for a hub that has oil port.If you would share a little more information. Wheel sets I have are from 69-74.Thank you

 

[dnc1]

Here's the catalogue image of your model from 1948.....

...gearing options and prices.....

(Images from V-CC library).

 

[MacTheKnife]

A friend of mine has these two bikes in her garage:

Both Rudge Sports from (I'm guessing?) 1960-1970ish?

Those cranks are pretty awesome.


On the women's bike that fork--is that bent, or was it meant to come that way, to somehow keep the wheelbase short or something?


Also, if anyone's interested, I think she's probably going to sell them. She's in NM.

 

[gkeep]

Nice pair of original bikes. Hard to see details but they look more 40s-50s. The fish mouth style lugs on the womans bike I believe changed around 1952. If the pedals don't have reflectors that puts them before 1972. The Sturmey Archer 3 speed rear hubs will have a date code on them showing the month and year they were made. That will give a rough idea of the date the bikes were assembled. There should be a serial number on the seat down tube like this, it may be possible to get a manufacture date from this number.

 

[MacTheKnife]

Thank you! Does the fork on the step-through look correct?