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C1895 Pneumatic Diamond Safety

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B

Breezin

'Lil Knee Scuffer
Looking for help ID'ing this bike. Fairly standard construction of the day, but a few notable items:
Tubing: 1-1/8" DT, TT, ST; 3/4" SS and CS
Handlebar: Wood; Stem: Brass, w/stamped PAT APL'D FOR
BB bearings: inverted type, with cups inboard and cones outboard, for 3/8" or possibly 7/16" balls
Fork crown: tubular arch casting
Serial #, right side of seat lug: 949

Parts shown were all attached to the frame when bought in 1975.

Joe Breeze, Curator
Marin Museum of Bicycling
Fairfax, Calif.

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Does it take the same sized wheels front and rear? The fork looks like it takes a smaller wheel - could be a camera perspective though-
 
Jesse McCauley said:
That straight fork arrangement is closely associated with pacing bicycles, trick bicycles, and polo bicycles, difficult to discern between those groups once a frame has been broken down
Click to expand...
Exactly ..... "once a frame has been broken down" - (it is hard to discern between those groups you've mentioned Jesse)

It appears that someone stripped the bike completely at one time of all its original components. Then someone else decided to try and add a few bits to make it look like a bike again. But for me it looks like they've actually added all the wrong parts. Those pieces (bars stem saddle & post) certainly are not original for this type of bike. It looks like the only original parts to this frame could be the head set and probably the chain adjusters. There is a chance the b/b cup pieces could be original to the frame as well but nothing else looks right for it. (I'm scratching my chin on the arms and ring)

One would have to erase all this (the way it is assembled) and look at the frame itself and know what they're looking at. Once they know what they are looking at then they can go forward with building it properly with all the correct bits. In this case it "needs everything" which isn't going to be cheap! (and I have all those parts needed)

But ... the frame itself is something to try and figure out and I think I know what it is. The Museum is close to me so I should go have a look at it.

I did ask "Breezin" as soon as he posted this if it was something they would sell. He replied back that it's "Not for Sale" at this time. He said once they build it then it could possibly be for sale. For me this bike has to be built properly. I personally would rather build it myself authentically with all those correct parts.
 
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I've been at this 19th-century bike thing for 50 years, and it seems plausible to me that most the bike's parts came with the bike. In fact the bike was built with these parts when we found it 50 years ago.

Please note, there are no plans to sell this bike. Anyone who has any idea who made the bike, I'd appreciate knowing.

I'm at Marin Museum of Bicycling Fridays and Sundays, 11-5.

Thanks,
Joe
 
Breezin said:
I've been at this 19th-century bike thing for 50 years, and it seems plausible to me that most the bike's parts came with the bike. In fact the bike was built with these parts when we found it 50 years ago.

Please note, there are no plans to sell this bike. Anyone who has any idea who made the bike, I'd appreciate knowing.

I'm at Marin Museum of Bicycling Fridays and Sundays, 11-5.

Thanks,
Click to expand...

I didn't mean to discredit the build as it sits, I meant more that the distinguishing factors between steyer & trick bike tend to be in the details of this build that are now missing like the hubs and pedals. That said a trick bike often has some sort of specialty design so a steyer frame is certainly within the realm of possibility here!
 
No, I appreciated your comment about it possibly being a stayer bike, or polo bike, etc. Once a maker is discerned then I hope to learn the types of bikes they offered.

Additionally, Ricker had a question of wheel size. The frame and fork are made for 28-inch wheels.

NEW. NEW. NEW.
1/ This morning, I found the crank SPINDLE. In my box of crank parts. Duh. 6" long, for 5/8" crank hole. Left-hand thread on left side.
2/ Head tube holes for HEAD BADGE: They are treaded holes and staggered, so distance to the left hole is 3.6" down from bottom of top head lug. Distance down to right hole is 3.8". Distance across, hole to hole, is about 1.25" (measured with calipers). So the holes are almost across the tube from each other. I would think the badge would be a fairly thin strip of metal. Maybe in a curly scrollwork kind of shape perhaps...
 
Thinking about the badge another two seconds... Many round badges could fit this pattern.

Cranks are for 1/2" pedal spindles.
 
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