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1954/56 Schwinn Tiger 26"

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JFYI, all the first new middleweights for 1955 started out with a serial number that was stamped in 1954. The Tigers were 3 speeds only and had chrome rims. I believe it was the 59 models where you had a choice of gearing or coaster.

@Sven
P15683 - 12/02 to 12-08 1954 ; 11/12 to 11/15 1956.

The first stamping was definitely on a 1955 model and the second stamping was more than likely a 1957 model. Model year change over in most cases started with bikes with November serial numbers.
 
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JFYI, all the first new middleweights for 1955 started out with a serial number that was stamped in 1954. The Tigers were 3 speeds only and had chrome rims. I believe it was the 59 models where you had a choice of gearing or coaster.

P15683 - 12/02 to 12-08 1954 ; 11/12 to 11/15 1956.

The first stamping was definitely on a 1955 model and the second stamping was more than likely a 1957 model. Model year change over in most cases started with bikes with November serial numbers.
Not sure what that has to do with L15634 directly?
I know for a fact now the rims are not original and I am not even sure they are Schwinn rims at all now.
New Departure Model D rear
New Departure Model WL front.
Both chrome No knurling or stamping on the rim hoop at all
I got you the measurement you mentioned would be telling specificaly and a few extra.
Personally IDC if it is a 54,56, or a 96, It is not my bike, just a project on my time for a friend in his dime.
At this point all I see is that all indications point to 56 based on readily availible info. The traces if its original paint color and type, shape/style of the (color matching) chaingaurd, the style of chain ring, and again I have looked because of bad info gotten here on the CABE and going by apearance it is definitely not a 55 Tiger, and 54 HAD NO TIGER acording to the Schwinn catalogues.
Furthermore I only see Your "JFYI" as rude and purely instigating.
 
At this point, I'm not sure the rear rim can be trued without being relaced, more of the nipples seem fused to the spokes than what turn freely though non are crumbling or stuck to the rim.
I did mount the rims for mockup and trimmed the front fender to sit bobbed so that's done and ready for clean up of about 3 layers of peeling paint on top of rust mottled chrome. I'm going to get some "quick steel" to fill in a few holes before confirming whether or not the fender is being just clear coated or painted black first.
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At this point, I'm not sure the rear rim can be trued without being relaced, more of the nipples seem fused to the spokes than what turn freely though non are crumbling or stuck to the rim.
I did mount the rims for mockup and trimmed the front fender to sit bobbed so that's done and ready for clean up of about 3 layers of peeling paint on top of rust mottled chrome. I'm going to get some "quick steel" to fill in a few holes before confirming whether or not the fender is being just clear coated or painted black first.
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So to update.....
All bearings are officially packed and locked in, rims finally trued, front forks recentered, and Bob fender might be a loss....I will be switching it to a set of gumwall "Schwinn Studded Balloon Tyres" because they have a lower profile than the tires that were going to be used originally.
I never mentioned the front fork being tweaked because the front rim had been previously trued....total bang up job, straight without hop but it WAS ALSO badly off center of the hub. Recentering confirmed the Ashtabula was pushed over to one side.
I remedied that by slipping a pipe down almost all the way to the bridge and leaning into it with a foot on the handlebar end. Few bumps later and although there is still a slight spread to them they draw in nice and center on the wheel lugs now.
At this point it is time to test run and check for minor adjustments to things like lug torque, bearings after the grease loosen up and works around, and brake cables. I don't like over tightening and wrecking old metal axles or their lugd So sometimes I have rearsets that have to be recentered and locked tighter.
I will add a fresh image set once the tires are swapped, if the bobbed fender will work with them it is getting done in hammered gold over black with the same gold pen striping used on the top tube and chaingaurd in the typical scalloped end style.

I am considering using a section of the pen stripe to create a color negative though.
The given look would be a gold on black pen stripe for the lenght of the fender edging, and then where the gold tipping scallop is....jump to black on gold.
One note in regard to the fender color though, I am going to strongly suggest to him a medium bright Red considering the frame is littered with the original paint and the most prominently remaining color on the chaingaurd is a combination of the original red and the first repaint red.

Any thoughts?
I am also debating having him source some Sort of decent fenders that are a touch narrower, NOT CHROME, a little rough for wear and go from there.
 
As for the debate if this is a 54 or 56, something came up that suggests it MIGHT be a factory rebadged 54 Hornet....or other.
The chaingaurd was marked tiger and color matched the frame HOWEVER is other wise 100% physically identical to what is on THIS TRAVELER
The rims being coaster single, AND the chaingaurd are physically identical to what is on THIS 56 CORVETTE even the original coloration of the "burnt looking" headbadge is a match to that corvette.
According to the Schwinn catalogue archives that chaingaurd was only used in 56 when it comes to Tigers. The chaingaurd for 1955 Tigers was reused in 1956+ with graphic changes alont the way and minor reshapes.
I am becoming annoyed that this bike is elusive to any identity beyond anything other than being built somewhere between 54 and 56
 
That style chain guard dates back to pre war times and was modified post war with attached mounting brackets. The new 55 middleweights, Corvette, Tiger and American were all equipped with that guard. All three of these models also had the same color choices. The 1955 middleweight guard was a one year only and most all of the boys geared models had a cable clip riveted to the top of the guard. One other note is the location of the mounting hardware on the 1956 and up guards was relocated further back on the guard moving the guard forward. Your guard is a 56 or later model guard.
 
That style chain guard dates back to pre war times and was modified post war with attached mounting brackets. The new 55 middleweights, Corvette, Tiger and American were all equipped with that guard. All three of these models also had the same color choices. The 1955 middleweight guard was a one year only and most all of the boys geared models had a cable clip riveted to the top of the guard. One other note is the location of the mounting hardware on the 1956 and up guards was relocated further back on the guard moving the guard forward. Your guard is a 56 or later model guard.

Well on that note she got her rebirth maiden voyage today...I got a few lowrider magazine style photo angles for fun.
She runs so smooth I can not only ride no hands and keep a straight line but also pedal through a corner no hands and she don't get sketchy about it.
At some point there will beta boattail rear carrier being added as well as a hair pin springer seat, I currently have a front fender lined up that will get some light reworking to fit properly.

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After some clean up and hole plugging, it turns out the fender isn't even a Schwinn, and was not likely ever chrome....it is in fact a Prewar era "Peaked" Roadmaster fender
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So It is done,
The 56 tiger rolls out tomorrow with it's rightful owner who is needless to say STOKED.

The finishing touches were a torched and oiled purposely burnt chrome front fender, redressed the Bobbed rear, a Brooks (stretcher?) Leather saddle and a brown leather tool bag.

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