Got the flush broken off bolt out of my Torrington stem last night. Left it in the ultrasonic cleaner with the heater on overnight by accident. Very happy outcome removing almost all of the paint! The rest came off easy with a few scrapes of the fingernail.
Yeah, can't lie, not a fan of the ape hangers on a 26" bike. ...unless it has a banana seat too, but then the rideable scale is off....unless you're just that friggin tall.
I've been staring at these post war touring bars a lot lately. Might use them on my next Cruiser because they're that...
Alright, I'll admit I didn't get very far with these cranks and gears....but I had to take it out for more than a spin around the block after I picked up this seat and strut for it!
To clarify, I think the guy was asking about the twin straight bar frames being offered in all 3 sizes. (Some had semi arched twin bars...)
This one is 26" and I still consider it a P.I.G. lol but I imagine most P.I.G.s were 20".
Found this randomly on Google...with no date info. 😒
Looks like yer Cyclo braze on and the maroon clubman's hasp clamp option in the same diagram.
Opened up more confusion though. I had a Paramount on the stand with dropouts similar to this diagram...I thought they were called Osgear...
Got the dimensions...Do with This information as you please. Nails or Rivets, whatever works for you. Nails just aren't something I work with, but rivets I see quite a bit of options.
This is the important outer diameter that will let the pin fit in the housing hole.
The fatter "hat" portion...
The coaster brake arm approach seems more stable, but less factory. The 2 clamp approach...not sure how easy it would be to spin the assembly on the chainstay...but it looks a little less backyard add-on than the brake arm. The brazed on bracket in the original post certainly looks more...
They were plentiful at actual Schwinn shops, but the shops are not so slowly dying off. $10 is just the fine for dropping/losing one. Lol
Think about it in terms of shipping though. Who would want to ship a single 10 cent item when the envelope costs just as much as the part, probably...
Yes, but a standard pan can be modified to work on a Krate. The seatpost clamp and sissybar holes function as hinge points to work with the "full floating sissybar." Drill the seat post clamp holes up to 9/16" smooth bore(from a square bore) and it requires a special seatpost clamp with hat...
Schwinn's tall badge...I think it's easier to spot them by their fatter font. https://www.ebay.com/itm/333129846693?campid=5335809022
They made a few distinct versions for that hole pattern. Unfortunately I don't have any to go with red bike...
Parts look World-like, besides the obvious late model stuff. Seat tube to top tube looks fillet brazed, but it looks like the smaller 1" clamp, not the oversized Continental tubing...from here at least. Not sure I've ever seen a non-Paramount with a brazed on derailleur mount...slotted for...
Sorry, I just realized you edited your post. I think it's 14-LH....and yeah that oddly stamped G. The upper and lower stamps are different size fonts. Could be an I...can't say I've ever had another Snyder of this era to compare to. The important part is Snyder built bikes had the year inverse...
Sorry, of all things I managed to take a picture of...I forgot to post the S/N.
Snyder/Rollfast seems to be it, but what badge and year? The Rollfast badges I just spotted in that era, the rivets are on the little sides, not up and down.
Just bought this frame, with another Klunker build in mind. Was thinking post war Columbia when I saw the shape of the top tubes, headtube, and large seatpost(turned out to be 13/16").
Then I realized the downtube is straight, it has drop stand ears(similar to CWC?), a funky upper fender...
Beautiful day out! Just wish my derailleur wasn't being cranky. It wasn't happy after I bombed this hill.
I had to cut the ride short and limp home....found some nice places to stop and adjust the derailleur though. And came across a Bill Hicks quote, made the day!
I can't knock anything else on that bike...but FYI, that's a Pete seat reproduction sticker under there. You can tell by the 918 inspector and the white edges. The originals are vinyl/mylar and black throughout. Pick at another seat and you'll see what I'm talking about.
Yeah, pretty sure that's a scrape, there are others in the same direction around it. Certainly looks like a 7 right there, ha but it's not a stamp. Those S6 and S5 rims take special diameter tires marked 24x1-3/8 (and some 10 speeds had 24x1-1/4"). Schwinn had to be special so that you had to...
Not with a year...but this one you can barely make out the S after Tubular and there should be a 6 after that, not visible at all on this rim. You can gauge the age by how deep the knurling is, but that takes a bit of a calibrated eye and is definitely not exact, just something that happened as...
It's possible, Murray made one close enough that Schwinn took them to court saying Only Schwinns Can Have Knurling! Lol there's a copyright out there at least. The Schwinn S6 is more of a flat/square contour too, but will be stamped as such. Went to get an example pic, but it seems they half...
And yes, please, some others chime in on this with their Stingray examples. I think the knurled rear hub shell is close enough, but not sure when the cutoff was.
I can't find when the cutoff for S5 rims was either to say what was good for my LH stamped Manta...since they don't appear in the 73...
As far as I know, the rear S5 with the hump in the middle is original to that era bike. It's an early bendix 70 hub too. The 70 stamp isn't a precise year either, just a model per-se that ran on bikes from late 69 to late 75 when it became the Bendix 76 model. Somewhere in that range the...
I'd be curious to see if those brass bushings are on every Klunker 5. Not saying it's impossible, but from what I can tell, I think your picture shows a shim from a speedometer mount kit.
Yeah, most simple statement would be don't buy anything new. Exactly zero manufacturers make a handlebar to precisely match that of the 60s and 70s. I'd imagine Wald has long since lost the original Tooling/data to reproduce them and have no desire to tweak current Tooling to match the old...
Sorry, the last post I made has pictures stolen from the internet...while trying to find a good shot of the star on the coaster brake model chainguard, I missed the detail of the rear bracket with that green one. Here's my guard, notice the shorter offset bracket at the rear. The Orange one in...
Notice they call the arched top tube of the frame "camel back" in the catalog. The bars that attach from the seat tube to the axle are called seat stays. Arched top tubes came on other 10 speed bikes but only the Stingrays of that era had that single top tube coupled with arched seat stays. The...
Absolutely a singlespeed Manta-Ray. I've got an Orange one I can take pics of when I get home if needed. The coaster guard has the star where the 5 speed has the checkered flags with 5-speed in between. Arched seat stays confirms it also.
There is also a phone app that comes in handy, Spokecalculator.
It will ask you for all of the pertinent details.
Input all your data without having to be in front of a desktop computer and spit out a spoke length in millimeters.
I call it cycling therapy...it puts most of your focus on the...
Yeah, I wanted to say something by the time we got to about page 2 in comments...
No way to gauge how many will still want to buy them after a production price and profit margin are set. I imagine this can be done affordably, but I'm not in the forging business either. With a name like Tomahawk...
I thought possibly Altenburger because they have the lever's clamp screw mounted in a plate that is fitted to a slot, similar to this handle, and they are strictly German as far as I know.
Their brand name also appeared in a 60s Schwinn price guide I came across.
I just learned that Weinmann...
Which Sturmey Archer clamp are we talking about? The one I'm familiar with has a slot for specific Sturmey arms to slide into.
The hub on this bike isn't Sturmey and has that adjustable slot mount intended for use with a standard coaster brake style clamp.
I was thinking you meant threads poking out the top of the rim as in the liner area at first.
Yeah, I'd put it on the stand, let the air out of the tire and unthread the nipple showing the most thread. The liner should hold the nipple in place once you've backed completely off the...
Got the flush broken off bolt out of my Torrington stem last night. Left it in the ultrasonic cleaner with the heater on overnight by accident. Very happy outcome removing almost all of the paint! The rest came off easy with a few scrapes of the fingernail.
Yeah, can't lie, not a fan of the ape hangers on a 26" bike. ...unless it has a banana seat too, but then the rideable scale is off....unless you're just that friggin tall.
I've been staring at these post war touring bars a lot lately. Might use them on my next Cruiser because they're that...
Alright, I'll admit I didn't get very far with these cranks and gears....but I had to take it out for more than a spin around the block after I picked up this seat and strut for it!
To clarify, I think the guy was asking about the twin straight bar frames being offered in all 3 sizes. (Some had semi arched twin bars...)
This one is 26" and I still consider it a P.I.G. lol but I imagine most P.I.G.s were 20".
Found this randomly on Google...with no date info. 😒
Looks like yer Cyclo braze on and the maroon clubman's hasp clamp option in the same diagram.
Opened up more confusion though. I had a Paramount on the stand with dropouts similar to this diagram...I thought they were called Osgear...
Got the dimensions...Do with This information as you please. Nails or Rivets, whatever works for you. Nails just aren't something I work with, but rivets I see quite a bit of options.
This is the important outer diameter that will let the pin fit in the housing hole.
The fatter "hat" portion...
The coaster brake arm approach seems more stable, but less factory. The 2 clamp approach...not sure how easy it would be to spin the assembly on the chainstay...but it looks a little less backyard add-on than the brake arm. The brazed on bracket in the original post certainly looks more...
They were plentiful at actual Schwinn shops, but the shops are not so slowly dying off. $10 is just the fine for dropping/losing one. Lol
Think about it in terms of shipping though. Who would want to ship a single 10 cent item when the envelope costs just as much as the part, probably...
Yes, but a standard pan can be modified to work on a Krate. The seatpost clamp and sissybar holes function as hinge points to work with the "full floating sissybar." Drill the seat post clamp holes up to 9/16" smooth bore(from a square bore) and it requires a special seatpost clamp with hat...
Schwinn's tall badge...I think it's easier to spot them by their fatter font. https://www.ebay.com/itm/333129846693?campid=5335809022
They made a few distinct versions for that hole pattern. Unfortunately I don't have any to go with red bike...
Parts look World-like, besides the obvious late model stuff. Seat tube to top tube looks fillet brazed, but it looks like the smaller 1" clamp, not the oversized Continental tubing...from here at least. Not sure I've ever seen a non-Paramount with a brazed on derailleur mount...slotted for...
Sorry, I just realized you edited your post. I think it's 14-LH....and yeah that oddly stamped G. The upper and lower stamps are different size fonts. Could be an I...can't say I've ever had another Snyder of this era to compare to. The important part is Snyder built bikes had the year inverse...
Sorry, of all things I managed to take a picture of...I forgot to post the S/N.
Snyder/Rollfast seems to be it, but what badge and year? The Rollfast badges I just spotted in that era, the rivets are on the little sides, not up and down.
Just bought this frame, with another Klunker build in mind. Was thinking post war Columbia when I saw the shape of the top tubes, headtube, and large seatpost(turned out to be 13/16").
Then I realized the downtube is straight, it has drop stand ears(similar to CWC?), a funky upper fender...
Beautiful day out! Just wish my derailleur wasn't being cranky. It wasn't happy after I bombed this hill.
I had to cut the ride short and limp home....found some nice places to stop and adjust the derailleur though. And came across a Bill Hicks quote, made the day!
I can't knock anything else on that bike...but FYI, that's a Pete seat reproduction sticker under there. You can tell by the 918 inspector and the white edges. The originals are vinyl/mylar and black throughout. Pick at another seat and you'll see what I'm talking about.
Yeah, pretty sure that's a scrape, there are others in the same direction around it. Certainly looks like a 7 right there, ha but it's not a stamp. Those S6 and S5 rims take special diameter tires marked 24x1-3/8 (and some 10 speeds had 24x1-1/4"). Schwinn had to be special so that you had to...
Not with a year...but this one you can barely make out the S after Tubular and there should be a 6 after that, not visible at all on this rim. You can gauge the age by how deep the knurling is, but that takes a bit of a calibrated eye and is definitely not exact, just something that happened as...
It's possible, Murray made one close enough that Schwinn took them to court saying Only Schwinns Can Have Knurling! Lol there's a copyright out there at least. The Schwinn S6 is more of a flat/square contour too, but will be stamped as such. Went to get an example pic, but it seems they half...
And yes, please, some others chime in on this with their Stingray examples. I think the knurled rear hub shell is close enough, but not sure when the cutoff was.
I can't find when the cutoff for S5 rims was either to say what was good for my LH stamped Manta...since they don't appear in the 73...
As far as I know, the rear S5 with the hump in the middle is original to that era bike. It's an early bendix 70 hub too. The 70 stamp isn't a precise year either, just a model per-se that ran on bikes from late 69 to late 75 when it became the Bendix 76 model. Somewhere in that range the...
I'd be curious to see if those brass bushings are on every Klunker 5. Not saying it's impossible, but from what I can tell, I think your picture shows a shim from a speedometer mount kit.
Yeah, most simple statement would be don't buy anything new. Exactly zero manufacturers make a handlebar to precisely match that of the 60s and 70s. I'd imagine Wald has long since lost the original Tooling/data to reproduce them and have no desire to tweak current Tooling to match the old...
Sorry, the last post I made has pictures stolen from the internet...while trying to find a good shot of the star on the coaster brake model chainguard, I missed the detail of the rear bracket with that green one. Here's my guard, notice the shorter offset bracket at the rear. The Orange one in...
Notice they call the arched top tube of the frame "camel back" in the catalog. The bars that attach from the seat tube to the axle are called seat stays. Arched top tubes came on other 10 speed bikes but only the Stingrays of that era had that single top tube coupled with arched seat stays. The...
Absolutely a singlespeed Manta-Ray. I've got an Orange one I can take pics of when I get home if needed. The coaster guard has the star where the 5 speed has the checkered flags with 5-speed in between. Arched seat stays confirms it also.
There is also a phone app that comes in handy, Spokecalculator.
It will ask you for all of the pertinent details.
Input all your data without having to be in front of a desktop computer and spit out a spoke length in millimeters.
I call it cycling therapy...it puts most of your focus on the...
Yeah, I wanted to say something by the time we got to about page 2 in comments...
No way to gauge how many will still want to buy them after a production price and profit margin are set. I imagine this can be done affordably, but I'm not in the forging business either. With a name like Tomahawk...
I thought possibly Altenburger because they have the lever's clamp screw mounted in a plate that is fitted to a slot, similar to this handle, and they are strictly German as far as I know.
Their brand name also appeared in a 60s Schwinn price guide I came across.
I just learned that Weinmann...
Which Sturmey Archer clamp are we talking about? The one I'm familiar with has a slot for specific Sturmey arms to slide into.
The hub on this bike isn't Sturmey and has that adjustable slot mount intended for use with a standard coaster brake style clamp.
I was thinking you meant threads poking out the top of the rim as in the liner area at first.
Yeah, I'd put it on the stand, let the air out of the tire and unthread the nipple showing the most thread. The liner should hold the nipple in place once you've backed completely off the...
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