Schwinn bicycles use brass to fillit weld the joints---except the war ear bikes (your new world) which were steel welded---See the welds are not of a yellow brass and the top finished welds are covered in that soft body led to "give" the Schwinn look. And when you used the wire wheel on those...
Forgot to say. 41s new worlds were not fillet brazed as other schwinns, they were steel welded and body lead was used to give them the Schwinn look. If you turn the frame over you will see the weld as they didn't bother to body lead the welds at the bottom of the BB.
The steer tube can be straighten, I've done so. A shop press and wood blocks would work best. But I've also used a vies and sleg hammer. Also a 1 inch I.D. brass nipple split with a hack saw also makes a good block for the vice
Got this from an Aussie sight about my bike:
You
Hi Sam
I would be 99% certain it is a Deane Toseland, the track ends are the same i have also seen on other Toselands and becasue it came from Australia i would say the remaining 1% makes it true.
It would have been a track bike but her ein...
After more research into this bike it may be a Deane Toseland after all...….Toseland marketed his own branded name of cycle which included the range of standard and professional bikes using his knowledge from his early years being a mechanic he put his effort into building high end racing bikes...
Yes Art is a dear old friend. We use to ride around San Antonio when he lived there. He no longer rides--has balance issues. But other than that he's doing great.
They reduce the gear. The two speed guts as you say are two speed conversion units that will work with model D hubs. Your replacing the axel and drive side sprocket&driver with a geared driver and axel
The British Cycle Corp was a group of companies owned by T.I. but they were being run as independent companies so Hercules might have contracted for middlemore seats, also after T.I. bought Raleigh, (1960) there was a short time before all the companies were consolidated. The Sturmey archer...
T.I. did own Hercules but I think your bike pre dates when T.I. bought Raleigh. Hercules hubs were Sturmey clones(shells will interchange) but had much stronger gears. Use some past wax shoe polish on it. Auto touch up paint maybe but you'll never get it to match. And your Heru. may be 10/10...
The 1907 british catalog shows these forks
http://www.veterancycleclublibrary.org.uk/ncl/pics/Mead%20Cycle%20Co.%20catalogue%201907%20(V-CC%20Library).pdf
That 503 number is sears manufacture's number(503 being puch) sears stores had micro film parts numbers so they could look your sears idem up for servicing or replacement parts. Sure wish someone could find a case of those micro films
With the threaded hubs most fixed gear sprockets will work so you would be able to fine tune the gearing to your like. And as far back as the late 20s cyclo and others were also offering conversions for S/A hubs to allow a two speed range(6 gears)
I'd not through those forks away too quickly. Usually during a collision the forks bend at the junction of the fork crown and steer tube. And I've seen forks bent in that style but on English bikes.
BTW all these bikes were painted black. Then the color was added on top so the black you see is the undercoat/ primer/bondersizer what ever you want to call it
Paint on these bikes is very thin. If you try and "bring back the shine" You'll take the color off. Clean it good with mild soap & water. Then I'd try a past wax. The decals should be coated but again caution is advised. Copal oil varnish should be used but you no longer can buy it
Indecision! Too many good choices.. This is a 1930(or close) Mead Superbe frame. I'll never have original parts to restore it---even if I had the documentation (catalog pics) and I don't. Superbe frames as best I can tell were lightweight versions of English Roadsters. It has good quality tubing...
At your size I'd look for a Cro-Mo tubed Contintal in the 24" frame size. front fork can be swapped out and rear reset for larger tires Earlier Steel framed MB are robust and can be built up using 29s but might require modifying the frame.
I got this frame off ebay several years ago. I didn't just find it in Texas but it was in the U.S. and advertised as an English Mead . When I got it I ask the seller how he determined it to be a Mead---he responded he had gotten it in a parts lot of Mead bicycle parts and was only guessing...
I can now report I have I.D.ed this frame as a Mead . The head badge ghost does match that used by Mead of B-ham as a Mead Superbe. It's design is for an early type derailer I think used with the Sturmey archer 3 speed to get 6 gears. The lugs and drop outs used were Brampton. The 1929 Brampton...
Can't tell you where to find one, but what you need is a two handed adjustable spanner. Locks into both sides at the same time putting even pressure on the nut.
Schwinn bicycles use brass to fillit weld the joints---except the war ear bikes (your new world) which were steel welded---See the welds are not of a yellow brass and the top finished welds are covered in that soft body led to "give" the Schwinn look. And when you used the wire wheel on those...
Forgot to say. 41s new worlds were not fillet brazed as other schwinns, they were steel welded and body lead was used to give them the Schwinn look. If you turn the frame over you will see the weld as they didn't bother to body lead the welds at the bottom of the BB.
The steer tube can be straighten, I've done so. A shop press and wood blocks would work best. But I've also used a vies and sleg hammer. Also a 1 inch I.D. brass nipple split with a hack saw also makes a good block for the vice
Got this from an Aussie sight about my bike:
You
Hi Sam
I would be 99% certain it is a Deane Toseland, the track ends are the same i have also seen on other Toselands and becasue it came from Australia i would say the remaining 1% makes it true.
It would have been a track bike but her ein...
After more research into this bike it may be a Deane Toseland after all...….Toseland marketed his own branded name of cycle which included the range of standard and professional bikes using his knowledge from his early years being a mechanic he put his effort into building high end racing bikes...
Yes Art is a dear old friend. We use to ride around San Antonio when he lived there. He no longer rides--has balance issues. But other than that he's doing great.
They reduce the gear. The two speed guts as you say are two speed conversion units that will work with model D hubs. Your replacing the axel and drive side sprocket&driver with a geared driver and axel
The British Cycle Corp was a group of companies owned by T.I. but they were being run as independent companies so Hercules might have contracted for middlemore seats, also after T.I. bought Raleigh, (1960) there was a short time before all the companies were consolidated. The Sturmey archer...
T.I. did own Hercules but I think your bike pre dates when T.I. bought Raleigh. Hercules hubs were Sturmey clones(shells will interchange) but had much stronger gears. Use some past wax shoe polish on it. Auto touch up paint maybe but you'll never get it to match. And your Heru. may be 10/10...
The 1907 british catalog shows these forks
http://www.veterancycleclublibrary.org.uk/ncl/pics/Mead%20Cycle%20Co.%20catalogue%201907%20(V-CC%20Library).pdf
That 503 number is sears manufacture's number(503 being puch) sears stores had micro film parts numbers so they could look your sears idem up for servicing or replacement parts. Sure wish someone could find a case of those micro films
With the threaded hubs most fixed gear sprockets will work so you would be able to fine tune the gearing to your like. And as far back as the late 20s cyclo and others were also offering conversions for S/A hubs to allow a two speed range(6 gears)
I'd not through those forks away too quickly. Usually during a collision the forks bend at the junction of the fork crown and steer tube. And I've seen forks bent in that style but on English bikes.
BTW all these bikes were painted black. Then the color was added on top so the black you see is the undercoat/ primer/bondersizer what ever you want to call it
Paint on these bikes is very thin. If you try and "bring back the shine" You'll take the color off. Clean it good with mild soap & water. Then I'd try a past wax. The decals should be coated but again caution is advised. Copal oil varnish should be used but you no longer can buy it
Indecision! Too many good choices.. This is a 1930(or close) Mead Superbe frame. I'll never have original parts to restore it---even if I had the documentation (catalog pics) and I don't. Superbe frames as best I can tell were lightweight versions of English Roadsters. It has good quality tubing...
At your size I'd look for a Cro-Mo tubed Contintal in the 24" frame size. front fork can be swapped out and rear reset for larger tires Earlier Steel framed MB are robust and can be built up using 29s but might require modifying the frame.
I got this frame off ebay several years ago. I didn't just find it in Texas but it was in the U.S. and advertised as an English Mead . When I got it I ask the seller how he determined it to be a Mead---he responded he had gotten it in a parts lot of Mead bicycle parts and was only guessing...
I can now report I have I.D.ed this frame as a Mead . The head badge ghost does match that used by Mead of B-ham as a Mead Superbe. It's design is for an early type derailer I think used with the Sturmey archer 3 speed to get 6 gears. The lugs and drop outs used were Brampton. The 1929 Brampton...
Can't tell you where to find one, but what you need is a two handed adjustable spanner. Locks into both sides at the same time putting even pressure on the nut.
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