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Neat Sunbeam 3-speed trike.

1951 New Hudson Silver Arrow converted to north road bars. 23 inch frame on 26 x 1-1/4 rims. Wish there was a wider variety of tires for this rim size. I'm running Kendas but would love it if Michelin did a set of World Tours for this size.

That Fuji roadster must have been a one-off bring-over. I've not seen one of those in the US before. It's an old company in Japan, but most Fuji bikes in the US are 1970s-80s era road bikes.

I'd use the later 1960s as a cut-off point rather than 1959. The bikes made from 1959 through the mid 1960s still have many of the better features. My 1964 Traveler rides pretty much the same as my 1959 Traveler. The graphics on the 1959 are more ornate, but functionally it's a very similar bike...

The Schwinn-made parts are fairly close in time to the bike but probably swapped on by a user or local bike shop. The hooked-spring brakes were Schwinn's old-style caliper, before the straight spring/stud model (mostly but not entirely pre-war). The amber-colored cloth cable housings were common...

Sturmey Archer periodically considered (and in some cases did) venture into the realm of making single speed coaster brakes. They were unable to compete favorably with Perry and F&S. The Perry brake in particular was popular for many years, being a well-designed brake.

I work under the premise that if I have something in original condition, the goal is to preserve the quality of that condition when possible. Sometimes the condition is bad and restoration is the only reasonable route left. But one of the basic principles is not to actively harm the decent...

These were well thought out frames, very versatile - room for fenders, carriers, bags, etc. Looks like a good bike.

Please take photos and document if you open that old tri-coaster up. WW1 era model S ?

Thanks, will try a 26.8. I have the original seat post and seat clamp. Just would like to see how the adjustment would go with a little longer alloy post.

Does anyone know off hand what metric size seat post a 1940s cr-mo Continental takes? I am thinking of putting a little longer alloy post on a project. I thought a 27.2mm post I had would work, but that turned out too large.

Looking forward to it, always a good one to visit.

I wonder what will happen when the batteries for these bikes will no longer hold an adequate charge. Batteries are better today than in the past, but they have a relatively short useful life compared to many parts on a regular bike. If at some point you can't get a proper battery for these bikes...

Ok, I think I get what you're saying now - "W/O" is stamped on the rim along with the Araya markings. W/O stampings on an Araya rim mean it's for a "wired-on" tire and will not have a hooked bead in the rim. The tires are also sometimes called "wire-bead" type. Regular tires of the appropriate...

It would be helpful to have pictures of the wheels and tires that you're asking about. Most wheels and tires in this size are not high value, but there are a few older sets that are collectible. Every so often they do turn up.

Looks like a fun day. They look like good, comfortable bikes.

My guess would be mid-1970s, maybe 1973-76 era. Check the rear hub for a date code.

I have been hearing that Biketiresdirect has them, but I've had no luck finding them on their website. I keep seeing Kenda but not Michelin in that size. Maybe they stopped carrying the Michelin World Tour for three speeds(?). Please let me know if you have a link and I'm just not looking in the...

The AG hub does not have a brake in it. It is a three speed plus dynohub generator. It could be there is resistance in the generator from corrosion, or something is binding the transmission.

Another thing that might work is if H. Lloyd could use the digital file to print decals. They recently re-issued the late 1940s Continental decals.

Some yes, some no. Bicyclebones will have some of the decals, but not all. I believe he has the "hat in the ring" seat tube decal and the seat tube Schwinn cross decal. So that's a start. The now-closed Velocals had the unusual "seamless tubing" round decal that went near the bottom of the seat...

It came out great. Looks like you have a good rider there.

You put up your ad on Thursday and pulled it down a day or two later. It's not that people are rejecting what you have, it's that you haven't given the community much of a chance to even see it. I withdraw my offer in any event.

Would you be willing to sell two pairs shipped to Connecticut for $30 total?

Properly painted, the fork will not look too far look out of place. If it's straight and structurally good, use it.

Not quite the same - a fork for a 1939-40 New World would have had "D" shaped blades and flat/sloping crown. The New Worlds gained the rounded/torpedo blade fork later on.

That's a really cleanly set up bike. Looks like it would ride nicely. Probably a fun day being able to run it in a race.

Looks great, really well done.

The fork is mid-1950s. Frame looks early to me, 1939-40.

Post-war Schwinn brake calipers and pre-war Raleigh reflector.

Stock 24 x 1-1/4 x 1-3/8 for the 24 inch Breeze was 547mm bead seat diameter.

I usually go three or four evenings per week, 75 to 90 minutes per ride, April through November. I prefer a Sturmey Archer geared hub in the rear, running 46 or 48 teeth in front and 22 teeth in the back. I enjoy AW three speeds and FW four speeds the most. The saddle top is kept 29 or so inches...

Might be worth it if you need a bulk lot of pads and they all get shipped in the same box. I'll have to just keep looking around and maybe combine with my next order for Michelin tires. I was getting stuff from England through Wiggle before it declared bankruptcy. The cost of a pair of tires...

I've found a couple sellers in England who carry Fibrax Raincheater pads, but they wanted more to ship the pads than I wanted to pay.

I'm wondering if this is a Canadian model. The US catalogs from that time period do not show a Jeep with this style of frame. British catalogs show a "Jeep" model, but it's a junior diamond frame bike and not a cantilever frame.

I should probably order a couple pairs of them. They were called "Raincheater" and "Raincheck" at various times, but I don't have any in my brake parts box. I don't ride in wet conditions either but if they stop well and are quiet, worth trying just the same.

Supposedly so, and if they did, it must have worked! High-salt areas of the roads around here often have barren areas along the shoulder. When I moved up from Virginia, I had one bike get blasted with that spray brine they use in deteriorating weather. The bike had to be totally disassembled and...

Those frames tend to be small and the stems tend to sit low for an adult rider, so the extra rise of the 7881 bars is popular for bringing the grips up to a comfortable place. The Continental/tourist bars do well with one of the medium or taller double-adjustable stems (as on the '40s...

I would believe it. Some of the trees alongside the roads here have been killed by salt. There is a red maple across the street that isn't that old, now mostly dead due to salt. It also has begun to get into people's drinking water wells. It's hell on steel bike frames, wheels, and fenders.

Usually first half of April through first week or so of November here. A good year might start in the second half of March and go through the end of November. A short season - second half of April through end of October. Part of this is dependent on how much salt they dump on the roads at the...

With all of that being said, even if 2, or 4 or 6 months, that's still not a bad window considering the bikes are decades old at this point. I've always been kind of amused by people trying to get bikes allegedly "produced" the day they were born. It's really when that part was stamped so who...

Hopefully we're finally turning the corner here into better weather - finally getting some warmth. It seemed like we were ready to start spring, but then got hit with two inches of new snow. It has melted and hopefully that is the end of winter here. I took out the 1959 Traveler yesterday...

From what I can tell of the post-war Superiors (which share the tandem stampings, along with some other numbers), that seems true. It's easier to date a post-war Superior from a hub, or color, or some other feature, than the serial number. My guess is the shells were stamped, thrown in a bin...

I guess the designer's idea was to cash in on the period cachet of "drillium" lightening. The fork is the last place you'd want to do that though. Serious weight savings start with the rims.

It is part of a series of bikes made in the 1960s and 70s taking a three speed style frame and fork, and built up as a 5 or 10 speed bike. Raleigh/TI applied various badges and names to them, but the concept was the same. In a sense, these 5 and 10 speed light roadster style bikes are the...

Nice old school Raleigh carrier.

For hauling on a recurring basis (especially heavy loads) rather than only occasional hauls, I'd look at a Dutch or Danish style "long john" or similar dedicated cargo bike rather than a trailer. The hauler bike is built and engineered with the extra strain of load hauling in mind. A trailer is...

Good price on a nice bike.

Bundle of Sturmey Archer shifters and pre-war Raleigh "patent" brake levers.

Looks like it came together really nicely. Well done.