Search results

I kept my word! I haven't ridden in a long time. I still have all my bikes just sitting in my garage. Shameful!

Still the best info on these that I know of. Oh, those that remember me, hi!

After a very long time away, I found the pages for hub maintenance that I thought I lost.

Looking for a tank for a thirties Cadillac, chrome was original but I'll take a painted one if that's what is available.

Shelby built a lot of plain wrap bikes for other companies, like department stores, hardware stores, etc. There's quite a few late '30 Shelby frames wearing an assortment of badges. Some with drop stand ears, some with split top tubes at the seat post.

Yes it’s a 26 and a Shelby built bike. It went for $425 plus fees so i almost stayed in but the truth is, I don’t ride the bikes I have enough to justify buying another. But still, it was a good looking rider.

If you zoom in on this one, it will give you an idea of how I tied this Roadmaster. There is no standard way to do it, you just have to get creative.

I used hemp thread that I found in a bargain bin at a craft store. A slight off-white, it had patina built right in. It is closer to cord than thread. Jute thread is good too. The elbow of the fender strut usually has a hole in it that a looped piece of wire fits into, which works like an anchor...

It's a '30s Shelby (at least the frame is). It seems like it must have belonged to someone on here?

Wow. I haven’t been on here for quite a while. I started this thread almost ten years ago and people are still adding to it. Awesome.

http://thecabe.com/forum/threads/cleveland-welding-s-n-project.2705/

So, Mr Crazy, I got my information wrong? Hmm. As far that old thread about the serial number registry/list, I know a little something about that thread. Probably because it was my idea to start it, with RMS taking control of it because I didn't want to. I've been answering CW questions. on here...

I haven't posted on here in ages, but what makes you think this is a prewar bike? Everything I see points to early postwar... That rack is an aftermarket accessory. The crown on the fork wasn't available will after they started making these after the war. The supports for the fenders for prewar...

Holy thread revival! I forgot that I even commented on this way back when. Anyway I know someone who has a real dimpler. Its a little hand held press that is a half moon shaped mandrel kinda thing. You surround the frame tube with one part, you put the presser part against the spot where you...

Looking for a early Airflo peanut tank. As long as it's in at least restorable condition, I'd be interested.

Sorry for disappearing everyone. I have these for sale again, along with various internals if anyone needs anything.

Ok sorry for the delay. None of the hubs are large spokers. You could always drill them out, I suppose.

If you plan on riding it a lot, I probably wouldnt choose a Morrow hub. They work fine under normal circumstances, but they brake using the body of the hub itself, and can crack from the heat. If that happens, you need to replace the hub, which being vintage, means they aren't that easy to find...

Ok so the DD sold before I could finish typing that I had one for sale. You guys are insatiable! Anyway, I'll see what date codes I have left and get back to the Morrow people. It's been a long time since I've been on here. How did I get sucked back into this?

Holy thread revival, Batman! I still gots these! What? I know!

I have a handful of good hubs that I doubt I'll ever use. If you're looking for a hub to match the date of your 30/40s era frame, let me know and I'll see if I have it. See my older revived thread for details.

Actually, although the seat is later and the fenders are close to what they should look like, the rest is pretty right on for the men's Standard from '39. It's not a sought after model by collectors, but still pretty cool.

Honestly, save yourself the trouble of stealing all the cords from your blinds and drink your tea. The hemp cord that I used is already the right color, and is available at the craft store. Plus, you can go around saying "Mary Jane built my hotrod".

That was mine from 2009. I know, I've been gone for a while. That lacing has held up though. Kind of nice that people are referring back to when I was deep in it. I guess I should get back into all of this stuff again...I've been away long enough.

For reasons unknown, I can't find my pdfs on my computer, so I can't send anyone these until further notice...

He had two years, so I'd hope he'd fixed it by now...

(from beyond the grave) Hey! I'm not gone, just spending more time on car stuff than bike stuff. Let me know if there's anything I can add my major difference of opinion to...:p

I'm not at the computer where my pictures are, but B. Triplett's photo from Dave's site is just like mine. Not a lot in common with your bike, but if it's the paint scheme you're interested in, I'm not sure what your original scheme would have looked like. Just be creative...

Ok, so after looking at the pictures of mine and your badges, they are a little bit different, but unless you really examine them, you probably wouldn't notice. A couple things to note- Those tires cost more than half of what you paid for the entire bike(eventhough they are re-pops), so you're...

You did very well. Cadillac badged Shelby frames are really rare since they made very few of them, and very randomly of the course of the years. I have a '36 Cadillac, the only one I've seen besides the one on Dave's Vintage site. I also saw a middleweight from the forties at one point. Yours is...

I know you said that you were done, but keep your eyes peeled for an Elgin '36 or so Bluebird front sprocket. A solid chrome one. It would set the polish of the frame off pretty great(not that it doesn't look great already..)

Just a note- neither of those bikes above are 1938 models. The first one is '36/7 and the black one is a '37 with a '35 chain guard and wrong chainring. I'm not nitpicking, just the facts, m'am. Peanut tanks were '36/7 model items. Late '37-39 were Speedline or "no nose" style tanks, the peanut...

i have the exact same bike. It's a '40/1 men's deluxe. Everything is correct but the seat and it's post. Keep it. It's a beauty. I don't know what you mean by the rear stays. Your bike originally had a drop stand. Does your other bike have a straight down tube or is shaped like this one...

Re: Hole in seatpost casting = If it has a hole, it doesn't belong there.

If it doesn't have to be original, why not just go to the local bike shop? Any crank/bottom bracket set for 26" frame will work with your sprocket and frame.

Looks like base model '47/8.

That's interesting. The TripleSpeed didn't come out till '49. Apparently someone didn't know the war was over...

There are two different styles of ND knuckles, meant to work with either the early style exposed plunger axle, or the later recessed plunger axle. The knuckle, barrel, and cable are all a matched set with the axle type. The early and late version setups are not interchangeable. The shifter and...

Nah, I'll always have my freakishly normal sized head. God bless us. Everyone.

Aw shucks... :)

Actually the Wards models were more expensive than the Monark badged bikes. Wards was a higher end department store and their products went at a premium, kind of like Saks 5th Ave is now.

The frame stayed the same from '35 through '39, so it's really the accessories that make it ID-able. Everything on there is '36 catalog, so that would be the year to call it...

Sorry. Wrong. Bearing grease doesn't flow. It also dries out and stops lubricating, whereas the correct oil will slowly seep(not so much that you will have it all over the rims/spokes) out, then you top it up periodically through the filler- it's not there for looks. Oil seeks places to lube...

It depends on how "correct" you want it. Triple drop 24" rims are medium hard to come by, but those are 28 spoke rims mostly. The correct 36 hole rims aren't so easy, but not impossible. The correct rear hub is a lot harder to find. Unless you really know ND hubs, nobody will notice if you use a...

Transfer springs dont wear out. They are either whole or broken, which means free-wheeling, no brakes period. Since it was loose, you should probably take the hub apart and see that someone before you either didn't line up all of the locator tabs on the disc set, leaving maybe the outermost one...