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Yes yes yes. Well I'll be damned and you can see what the problem was. I had forgotten how critical it was for these Springs
to be in decent shape. Also I think the fact that the Hub was set slightly on the loose side helped accentuate the problem yes? Anyway I put it in the new transfer...
Haha right?! So befuddling sometimes. I wanted to try it again so I rode to the corner store just now without any problem. Then when I got nearly home it did it three times in a short period
re new departure D... have overhauled several of these, this time im having problem... after overhauling this one , the slow and careful test ride reveals a problem... when i pedal , aprox every 20 or 30 pushes on the pedal , and the hub slips 180 degrees ! i went back , disassembled it again...
Good stuff thanks. Well you know, does anybody on this site ever utter the infamous words, I wish I'd have left it alone?. I really broke the long stem Bolt off for no reason except I was stubborn and refuse to accept reality. And the bearings are so nice because it works fine I should have left...
If a 50s Cruiser gooseneck is Rusted and broken so badly that we have no chance of pulling the gooseneck out, can I saw it off , and then if it's really necessary , grinding off the lock nut, will the fork then just come right out of the bottom of the headset tube, taking all my troubles away...
thanks for the picture ,those are the only other ones I have seen. I appreciate you sharing the picture but I wish I had a bezel and lens for the front of mine haha.
Hi here's a picture of the fat 2 1/2" light , and an aftermarket sticker available, and my manton and Smith that it came on, 1935 or 1936. Seems like a rare light ,I have not seen it anywhere else. It would also seam black was the original color. I thought I would share it.
as doug said ................. on that note , i just rebuilt a model m , and with no retainer it seems 13 balls is max and good . ron...........also a common mistake is to re assemble the hub backwards . i have done it with lots of confusion because it wont go together! make sure the cog is...
A Flex Seal type coating would only be visually pleasing. It would not have the bond or the strength that the ca has. This stuff is strong strong strong. Have built many model airplanes with it over the years, different formulations of course. And repaired many things. I glued a sole on my work...
I love all formulas of CA glue. I used black rubberized CA to fill in the cracks in these old black grips . Apply liberally and push it in to the Rubber and fill large cracks. I also use accelerator. It speeds up drying time. Large cracks can be filled. Small cracks will be filled. What the hell...
Well I am not the expert and I don't have a definitive answer for you, I will put in my two cents as I see no one else has. I would not take 300, I would not take 400. Personally I think it is $1,000 bike however I don't believe many people would pay that. The price that you're interested...
Sounds good. Hey , anybody seen this rack before? It came on my cool Manton and Smith I'm currently working on. I don't think I've seen this carrier before
Here are the grips used on my Manton and Smith. I'm still thinking 1935 or 1936. Also seen on Mead Ranger manufactured by Manton and Smith. Anyone seen these used anywhere else?
Speaking of the Manton and Smith welds , here is a shot I took just today. I'll be posting more pictures of this complete 1935 or 36 golden eagle. I have yet to see another picture of this bike anywhere.
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