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You probably won't want to ride ancient leather. Brooks B17s are pretty close to one of their TOC models. I tried a Cardiff knockoff Brooks and it never broke in. I think the issue was that they maximize the hides, paying no attention to the grain as Brooks does, so in order to make it last...
The laziness is with the quick-buck investor parasites ruining every other hobby and those people are much more likely to be older in order to have the money and boredom to commit to speculative, glorified hoarding. I do think laziness partly factors in to the reason bikes aren't so mainstream...
You can definitely still get 597 tires, but the selection won't be great.
There are different "28"s. Probably the most common is a German/northern Euro designation for ISO 622 mm—same as 700c—but there's also a "28" that's ISO 635 mm.
If you're just looking for a natural protectant for something that will live a life of ease mostly indoors, I'll second the Feed-N-Wax.
If you're looking for a UV protectant and sealer that brings the life out of wood grain, I don't know how much you want to spend (though you probably only need...
This reminds me of my Iver when I got it. For the saddle, I used a Brooks with one of those standard cheap (5/8"?) saddle clamps. To fit it on the 7 stem, I got a piece of pipe with the same ID as the stem's diameter (1/2"?) and OD as the clamp needed. As it was a tight fit, I cut a slit up the...
It's a canning jar lid. I think some kind of clamp must have fit over the jar and lid so that the ramps on the lid could be used to tighten the seal. I would guess some kind of rubber would have gone between the jar and inside of the lid.
Pre 1921 as everyone else has said. For the badge insert, it's just red celluloid that's pretty much primary red. Any opaque plastic of approximate paper thickness would do.
Short cage. Pretty much anything you find should work. If you get a longer cage, you'll just need a longer chain. Shimano is the cheapest that isn't generic, but that doesn't even matter as—some oddballs aside—the derailleur just moves as the cable tension allows it to. The only thing to worry...
FSH, if it matters to you, the usual US legal limit is 750W, but since nobody you'll encounter who would bother you really knows what that means, you could probably put a "750W" sticker on anything bigger and nobody would know the better unless you're caught doing 50mph or something.
On RRB, there was a guy that went by Sensor making handlebars as Builtpoor! He made these for me based on the 2-position handlebar for the Monark Super Frames. Great work, very reasonable, but he hasn't been on in a while.
I did the same thing with a Brooks on mine. I had to use a short piece of pipe I slit down the side to fit over the saddle post to bring it up to clamp diameter, but that was easy. I also mounted mine so that the saddle sits over the top of the post to fit my legs (still a little short, but not...
Wood wheels were common on US bikes even later than then and they look the similar to the ones that were on my Special Racer. Mine is a 1912 at the latest and I'm too lazy to look up the serial, but IIRC, it's 195xxx, so that's right in there date-wise assuming sequential serial numbers. For me...
These things were hanging back then, but I couldn't afford them working for old man Morris at the butchers. Looks a little older, but I'd still like to put on the glad rags and go for a ride.
Might be tough to make the money back—I don't think the scrap yard would give $20/bike plus transport expenses. Sure, bikes are in demand (at the moment and these kinds of bikes still aren't the ones anyone but the most desperate new/returning riders are looking for), but it looks like...
I concur ~1912. I don't think it's a Special Racer as the truss tube isn't blended into the top tube as I think that was exclusive to the SR, though I could be wrong.
If you're talking the automotive double-sided trim tape, that stuff is pretty good. Not sure I'd test it on bike tires, but it is resilient stuff and I use it for a lot of things. Doesn't seem super sticky at first, but it appears to increase adhesion with time as it definitely holds.
Fixed some annoyances and made some repairs.
One of the original shift handles were damaged from a drop and, since I was getting rid of the light switches in the handles to clean up the wiring, I decided to just replace them with these wood eggs I already had (I didn't like the external switches...
Yes, it's measuring airspeed (however accurate this thing is) or apparent wind speed, which is the ground speed of the bike +/- the true wind speed as determined by the angle of the true wind in relation to the direction of the vehicle's travel. It's not very useful information for a land...
Exact year, I wouldn't know, but I agree with your assessment as the clear plastic, plus the rocket graphics on the packaging, and the font all point to that era.
I'm not an expert and have only seen a couple of them in antique bike displays, but I thought about making a set, so I paid at least some attention. From what I saw, there are different types. There's a pinecone-shape and a contoured ergonomic style. The leather wrap varies in width from maybe...
There are all different types of restorations with cars and it's changed over the years. Over-restored was thing years ago, but not as much anymore at the highest end. For the 7- and 8-figure cars, there's the judging on completely original everything—even reproduced defects, if necessary—with...
Beware of trying to get too tight unless you know the tire as, not only will the clearance vary due to rim width, but the stated number might not be exact. I know on some more performance tires, manufacturers will call something, say a 28mm width, when it's really a 26 or 27 so they can...
The 1901-07 curve dash Oldsmobile is often considered to be the first mass produced car. The Model T didn't really take off until after 1910, so even that isn't a TOC car. I'd even say that the Model T was a big reason there wasn't a "Model T" bicycle. Prior to Ford consolidating multiple ideas...
Tons of antique shops around here, especially on Cape Ann. I have no idea how any stay in business as I can see the same exact overpriced common items sitting there for years and I can't believe a few tourists occasionally buying <$20 knickknack souvenirs keeps the lights on. Aside from antique...
Was going to suggest something like Abe did that I use for my kayaks, but his system is better for bikes as the hooks travel and there's only one block and tackle required.
I don't know who the actual manufacturer of the Cardiff saddle is (there are several brand names), but that looks like the exact same literature and tool. I agree that they'll probably outlast a lower end Brooks because of the cloth reinforcement that I suspect is there because they cut the...
The former reputedly over softens too much for a stretched bicycle saddle, but I've heard the latter is fine as well as obenauf's LP leather protectant. I use Proofide and a little tin lasts a long time. I don't know if your saddle has the cloth underside like the Cardiff one I have, but if it...
If you can trace the graphics onto paper, you can scan them at Staples or some place as a pdf file and email it to yourself. From there, you can send them to a graphics company and tell them the size and color you want, though they might have to charge you to modify the drawing so they can use...
That paint crack looks distinctly like there's rust underneath it as there appears to be a little bubbling and some discoloration (plus, what would cause such a crack?). If it were a car, I would assume new paint hiding many sins and walk away after a few choice words with the seller that in my...
When thinking of it, imagine the direction of the thread allowing the pedal to tighten as you ride. Or another way is that they always tighten in the forward direction. If you're asking because the bike is so old, the answer should be the same as it is on my 1912 Iver.
1912 Special Racer. CB Italia "vintage" finish IIRC, and Linus tires. I wanted something with a smooth tread that would look era-appropriate and these were what I found. They were absolute hell to get onto the rims. I don't know if it was the tires or rims that made it difficult, but I don't...
Look like single tube rims. Finding something that doesn't look too modern and is an appropriate width will be expensive. It would be a lot easier to re-lace the hubs to modern rims. You can get wood clinchers if you want them. It's what I did with my 1912, though I kept the original wheels...
I don't know what year you're talking and I imagine you meant to type Iver, but if it's a matter of getting it riding while looking for an original part, a regular 1" quill stem fits my 1912 (I have a set of more upright bars I can swap the original track bar out for). Fork, I don't know for...
All the antique shops I've been in are like weird uncurated museums—nothing but <$20 souvenir knickknacks ever seem to move even with a steady stream of visitors. Like most of the furniture they try to sell, that will still be there in 10 years priced as if it's a high end example of a sought...
1912 Iver Johnson Special Racer with heavier new wood wheels with thicker spokes and a coaster brake is about 28 lbs. I can't remember if that was with the bag or not, but probably not.
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