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Thanks, it will clean up even more as I work on it too.

Yes, there were many good suggestions and I have been following them all!

Thanks for showing yours. Having been in a barn mine can't compete with yours. Man I love the coppertone color on these bikes.

I posted this bike in the Schwinn area without realizing there was a Stingray area. I think I found what might be an amazing survivor, original paint Coppertone Deluxe in the attic of a barn. I have posted a photo of the barn/garage and you can see above through the top middle of the photo the...

This is the result with only dawn dish liquid and a brush!

Amazing results. I have used evaporust a little but not on chrome and 0000 steel wool does do something to the surface for sure even if only a little. Thank you so much for the information. So much less toxic than usual. Did you do the wheels the same way or are the spokes a concern for being...

Soap and water has already made it look way better but thanks for the advice.

Can you imagine my surprise when I went up in a barn attic and for the first time ever found an old bike that was worth something? This used to belong to the guy his brother who delivered papers with this bike in the 60s he said. I had to go out to eat so I haven’t had a chance to even look at...

Here is the latest progress… there was a horrible brush job that someone did on this bike long time ago. I was using compound to try to remove the top layer, but the result was that I was ending up going down to bare metal to get through it. In the end, there was really very little original...

One last update. In the sunlight I just discovered that stamped across the joints is the maker's stamp. Thanks to this site, even though only the top half is really visible I could discern Plymouth October 1895!

This photo is the hub that came with the bike hanging in the barn. There is a fracture in the rear from hitting something and it is bent into a V. I know it could be fixed but it would take MANY hours. I already straightened a set that was way better than this. The 28 hole hub diameter is about...

The top photo of black crusty is incorrect. Correct 28 spoke hole photos below.

I am a moron.....see the correct photos below and my comment.

I posted the incorrect photo. I must sound like a moron showing the crusty old black ones saying they look restored. Shouldn't be trying to text on the fly and add photos. As you can see these are one minor coat of shellac away from looking incredible. I must have been high while was counting...

It certainly is possible that it was filed but the original hubs fit just fine. The wood rims have a fairly bad break around the valve hole. So basically a piece is ready to come off. I know anything can be fixed, but these are a little too far gone. I also don’t wanna spend a bunch of time...

I just picked these up from a 3 hour round trip away. They measure 25 inches and are in incredible condition for the age. I am guessing they were restored to some degree a while ago but the spokes are fairly crusty with rust. They are almost perfectly round. I was going to put them on my 1890s...

Thanks, I have sent them an email already.

Last 2 pages since i can only do 25 pics in one thread. Enjoy.

I thought I would share this with all you Racycle Nuts! I haven't been able to find any others of this particular book. I got to go through a house full of antiques first and was digging way in the corner when I stumbled across this and almost passed out from excitement. It is in such good...

I think from what I have researched here that I can simply replace an all original ND Model A skip tooth sprocket with one from a ND Model D. Am I correct? I have a early 20s Mead Ranger with 52 tooth front sprocket. Assuming I can, how do I decide how many teeth/diameter of rear sprocket is...

Thanks.....actually with a little more looking in the forum I found someone talking about this type chain and indeed, the one on my finger in the photo was the master but it was a snap link (never seen one of those before). Can't believe how easy it was to remove by just putting a screw driver...

I just got this one barn fresh and it looks somewhat unmolested although there look to be about 2-3 brush coats of paint on it from a long time ago. One of the cranks was welded back together also but at least both pedals are still there and the bottom bracket still spins super easy. I wanted...

Rusty or scrubbed up it will be ridden.....that was never the question.

Hello All, I just picked this up cheap straight from 20 years in a shed. As you can see it is rusty as heck but I think it is complete and unmolested. I believe the serial number is G2721…not sure if there is another mark to the right. Looks like it was blue and red. So what should I do….I know...

Sent PM.

I think I started a private conversation about these but have no idea where I would find evidence of this. I am interested in these pedals if you still have them. Am I allowed to put my email here....I cannot find yours. Thanks. [email protected]

Thanks...title modified. Makes sense because obviously there is no spring anywhere on those that I have seen. My fork doesn’t have all the get-up for the springer. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Hello, Looking for the correct parts for the bike you see in the photos. Just picked it up at an auction. Repainted but looks pretty good otherwise. Don't need to be perfect but something that could clean up nice to match this bike. As you can see I have the bracket/holes for the springer bar...

1914 Peerless bicycle. Almost all original parts there. Please study the photos. See the CABE thread 1914 peerless refurbish for some good pics of bike as I did some of the work. I am trying to raise funds for some medical expenses. Nothing horrible, just need cash more than a bike. Price...

Please help me narrow the gap. Scoured the CABE and internet hoping to find info but you all are the experts. I saw a brochure listing bicycles from 1937 Streamline Series and in lower left corner there is a Single-bar pacemaker that looks just like this. Am I in the ballpark? Serial Number...

If you look at exploded views of musselman elsewhere on this site you will see it is same. I did some research recently since i had the exact same hub one on my 1914 Peerless bicycle which was sold by Sears. By the way, that wood rim is painted like it was on a Peerless bike from the little i...

Why don't you send me PM with your address so I can figure exact rate. I might need a little for shipping via Usps. Not trying to make money but can't afford to lose $20 on shipping. They are pretty light though so I would hope it would be reasonable.

Beautiful, Just Made and purchased from Bricycle. These are fantastic 7/8 size bulldog grips with sewn leather with a 4 inch total length and 3 1/8 inch depth hole ferrule is brass and is a dull finish. I had originally ordered these as i was starting a refrubish of my 1914 peerless and ...

Should I get it for $65? Looks like it was black originally.

Just sent payment......thanks!

They are Robert Dean Tubulars. He makes to order black 150 each white 175 each shipping included in that price. Google him or look around on the cabe or the wheelmen. Clinchers just don't look the same.

Just to clarify......I was looking here and said I wanted a set of bulldog and posted a picture of mine......I would like the non shiny option as well........whatever you think matches best the patina of my peerless which I think you have seen pics of. Thanks.

Thanks for the encouragement Bricycle. I have created a thread with everything pictured in the Restoration Tips forum. I took it all apart one more time after all. For everyone else, you can now see the full mini project in the new forum.

This could work for you if you have a hub that operates correctly but has almost no stopping power or slips, not for the freewheeling backwards problem some people experience. Thanks to Bricycle who encouraged me to put this here for others. You just need some pipe and an angle grinder or...

Well i solved it. It was fairly clear that really the problem was that the wedge that spreads the brake was maybe worn enought that i just needed a slightly wider one. So i went downstairs and found that a standard size of pipe was exactly the correct diameter to make a new wedge. I traced an...

Thanks for a list of things to try. I did use automotive grease so will try again with White Lithium. When I tried to stop the pedals do apply force without frewheeling. The teeth on either side In the surface look a little worn. I tried bending the springs with no result. Will it be a...

Thanks for a list of things to try. I did use automotive grease so will try again with White Lithium. When I tried to stop the pedals do apply force without frewheeling. The teeth on either side of the brake spool and drag look a little worn but not overly so (to my untrained/never looked...

So I finally took my 1914 Peerless out for a short test ride and while most things are working fine i have no brakes. I took the hub out and didn't see anything wrong based on the Musseman (mine is the older Peerless hub) exploded views i have seen. Does anyone have any pointers on making...

Mostly done. Just need to do some glue cleanup on rubber and have a lantern on order which should arrive soon. Once more I want to thank Jason Nolin at Sugar Wheel Works in Portland for the outstanding work on lacing the rims with the old hubs!

Hoping to put it all together today and glue the Robert Deans on the Rims!

Yes, if I am going to ride it much I will use a different saddle. One mishap and the leather would be done. Would hate to be the guy that wrecks the saddle after 100 years! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I tried to find a cap for the one pedal but with no other pedal is welded on and I decided not to risk careful grinding that could potentially weaken the crank if I am going ot ride it. I think the bike spent some time on a farm and the most practical repair would be a weld right? I decided to...