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It's a great find. I looked for at least 2 years and never could come up with a "Super Cruiser" chain guard. Mine does have the Firestone pedals. I went a different route. Enjoy

Fantastic find, hard to find with the tank. The rear light/reflector shows up for sale often so that shouldn't be a problem finding. Springer doesn't look like it's all bent to hell. Should clean up nice. Be careful of the red/maroon paint and oxalic acid, it may change the hue. The only think I...

Whizzer Model H. Yes I did all the work. Thanks for the compliment

Sorry missed the mention of the wheels. Looked long and hard for a correct chain guard and never did find one, have one is a plus. Have fun. Here's mine

No Firestone graphics on tank or pedals. Does have the Supercruiser graphics on the chain guard. Not seen one with white rims. Correct seat. Just my humble opinion.

I sold the business and all the parts & plans. I do have a couple of "prototype" stands that are my "personal" stands. They work just as well as the originals with the exception that they may have some additional holes (broken tap) and or thicker aluminum base. I can post some pictures if you...

7 belts, new never used. $25 includes shipping in the CONUS.

At least that's what I think it is. $25 includes shipping in the CONUS

Used one time, worked great. It is an adjustable split die (made in CHINA) with a MSC Die Stock Handle. $65 includes shipping in the CONUS

From my experience with silver brazing, if done correctly (joint design, cleaning, flux, flame type, etc., etc.) the brazed joint can have a tensile strength greater than the parent metal. In a destructive test the metal will tear at the brazed joint, but the brazed joint remains intact...

A more modern version, but it will work, thanks.

It does look more like for a seat post. The OD needs to be approx 13/16" with a 5/8" ID, I think this is what you have. Thanks

Silver brazing and silver solder are two different processes and materials. The Harris material posted above has a melting temperature of approx. 1255-1305 F, with a tensile strength of approx. 40,000-50,000 psi. Cleanliness and joint design are important. The short attached article can help in...

The pictures I'm posting are from an Ebay auction. The bid starts at $24.99 or best offer, I would think the adapter is at least worth $10?As along as it's not a seat post stem adapter but one just like the picture. Thanks

No, not looking for a seat post shim need one for the saddle clamp

no problem with patina as long as it's not crusty rust patina or deeply pitted. Thanks

Like it says. Need 5/8" diameter on the small end, 13/16" or 1" on the big end. Have no good idea on what it's called. Thanks

ELDI, still looking for a base, found an old heavy lathe chuck in the scrap yard and using it until a base becomes available. Enjoy

Thanks, have no idea how I made the error

Make an offer, have no use for it

Vintage Wald, #4 Chrome Quill Stem Gooseneck w/1" Handlebar Clamp .833/21.1 NOS. Condition is New $10 plus the ride

Make an offer, have no use for it. Thanks

Condition is Used. The steerer tube measures approx. 6 3/4" , OAL is approx. 22 3/4, Distance between legs is approx. 2 9/16", steerer tube ID is approx .848 (13/16), steerer tube is bulged from the quill wedge. Repainted? $15 plus the ride.

I believe it is correct for a post war girls DX model. It's for a custom build. Like the appearance needs to be 7/8" (22.2mm) and 1" (25.4mm). This one is on currently on Ebay but would like one in better shape. Does not have to be Schwinn, just short reach with the right sizes.Thanks

Please excuse my confusion, just want to make sure. What you're saying is that the large cutout slot in my first picture serves the same purpose, (to keep the washer from moving) as does the "keyway" in my second photo? If so and the length and diameter are what I'm looking for I would have an...

This is what I'm familiar with. Does the large slot serve the same function, to keep the washer from turning? Thanks

What is the purpose of the slot? I'm unfamiliar with it so I was attempting to avoid it, but maybe I shouldn't discount forks with it.

Like the title says and the attached sketch. Looking for good used, specific bike model isn't important. I will consider a fork from a women's bike if the price is attractive (I'll need to buy a die to chase the threads) as a last option. No bent steerer tube. Thanks in advance for the help...

I've been told that it's a "replacement" block with only 2300 made. It's the same as the 300. Thanks

yes

I need some HELP, but a short backstory. I am a real newbie to vintage/classic bikes, and the amount of styles, manufacturers, component variations can be overwhelming. I'm try to recreate an early 1900's Harley using a vintage Whizzer engine. I'm trying to recreate (unsuccessfully so far) an...

fantastic, one of the legs has a slight "tweak" in it, but my photography made it look worse. Thanks again

Thanks, prewar, postwar? Does the 13/16" stem date it in any ways?

Snyder, Hawthorne Rollfast?

I bought this not knowing what bike it was from but because of it's looks and that it was from a boy's bike. The threaded stem has a 13/16" inside diameter rather than 7/8". This limits my choice of stems I can use, especially with Torrington bars and a cross brace. I'd like to sell it but want...

Attempting to "educate" myself. Is a 500 series engine valued differently when compared to the other model? When was it built? Any performance benefits? Thanks

Thanks. It's a B507 with a Whizzer 500 engine, roller crank, high fin head, etc. The next project in line

Don't need these exact bars, just something that is comparable ( and available). For a replica build

Is there a contemporary handlebar similar to these available? What are they called? What generally are the dimensions (rise, height pullback)? Anyone have a good used? Thanks

awesome, thanks!

I have 2 clutch pulleys, one with a small outside diameter of 3 1/2" and the other has a small outside diameter of 4", they both have a large 5" outside diameter. Which is correct for a vintage Whizzer? Thanks

Thanks, I wasn't very clear in my original post. My intent was to ask if "setting" the endplay is done differently for a roller crank than the standard crank. If I understand you correctly it the same method using the same spacers. Thanks again

Care to share on how it's different? Thanks

Is the crankshaft end space set on a roller crank any differently than the standard bearing crank?

Not looking to buy, but a great job of presenting an item for sale! It should make a sale much easier for both the seller and buyer.

Thanks, I walked away from this project for awhile. I do have a 46 tooth chainring available. Thanks again

Bump

Like the title says. Looking for good used or new, axle only. Thanks

Thanks but a little too pricey for what I intend to do with it

Thanks for the offer. I've found that it ultimately will cost you more when you buy one piece at a time. Leaning towards using a Worksman hub. Thanks again