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The first light green bike is a late 50's Huffy. The blue one is a 60's Snyder made bike (Rollfast). The little one is CWC made (Roadmaster), late 40s to early 50's, the serial number will give the exact year.

October 1965, only a K would make that mark. Looking closely at the front of the front fender, it was cut, the edge isn't nice and curved like a factory cut would be. They probably had a basket on the front and needed to trim the fender. You can also see where a second rider rode on the top bar...

They may have ground down the spot to add the new number. But I can see maybe a "C" and part of a letter. A Cw would make it series 3, 47-49, unless there's an "A next to it, then it's a 49-51. Either way it's pre 1952. Hopefully the frame is good.

I'd guess it's a late 40's CWC frame and forks, going by the curved downtube. It looks like that number was stamped over the real serial number. I see some remnants of other letters/numbers along that number. The chain wheel is something else as are the handlebars and stem. The wheels might be...

That's a Cleveland Welding Company made bike. With the Cw, it's a series 3 model. G would be 1948. Your chain ring is Schwinn and the rear wheel Elgin (Sears), and the chain guard may be aftermarket. But everything else looks CWC made. The fork has a slight backward bend, but that's easy to fix...

Huffy made bike for sure. They used an "H" in the beginning of the serial number, with the number next as the last digit of the year. I'm not sure if that continued into the 70's. 2H would be 1972 on your bike. The sprocket can be laid flat on something and hammered flat enough to use. I'd...

I bought this 24" ten speed in excellent condition used in 1982, and it's seen thousands of miles of use in the Philippines by different family members. Just the frame has survived. It originally had steel wheels and cottered cranks. I plan to bring it back to life again. Is it Japanese and is...

That J number could be early 1959. I saw another bike with a higher J number a week or two ago that was verified as 1959 and jotted it down in my serial number book. The J was still being stamped on the BB in 1959.

They repeat in other years, 52 and another year too, so you have to pull the cranks to check the actual year. The models are similar too.

Why would they change the letter to an "S" right in the middle of the sequence and then go right back to "F"? Either it was a mistake that was finally noticed or someone played a trick on the guy who stamped the numbers and he didn't notice for four days! No bikes were stamped for the 9th...

From the 48 catalog:

Where did you find 1947? There's too many numbers in yours, it should be 5 or 6 digits after a letter. C or D would be 1947 as an estimate. S with 5 digits is 1955.

Every spoke a different length?

1950 D62 model. Just guessing. Here's the page I use to try to find older Schwinns ages. http://www.angelfire.com/rant/allday101/SchwinnCodes2.html

I agree with one of the options above. Transfer everything over to a Chicago cantilever middleweight boys frame, then you have an excellent rider. The parts are all probably in great shape, girls didn't tear up their bikes like us boys did. In the Chicago area, there should be plenty of those...

I think the first year for the Continental is 1960.

Nope just a picture. I would like to find a pair of those tiger grips we had in the early 60s. From the Esso gas station I think: "Put a tiger in your tank!"

26" is the wheel/tire size. The bike size is usually the frame size. On cruisers, most are 18". That's a measurement from the center of the chainwheel to the top of the seat post. Most beach cruiser type frames aren't that big, 18" seems to be the industry standard. At 5'9" I need the seat stem...

The serial number shows series 3, by the Cw. D indicates early 1948.

I think was late 70's when those shorty fenders were in style. The BMA6 sticker on the seat tube means it is 1971 or later. It has the chain wheel I like, the Huffy mag. Huffy serial number may iD the year. It will have an "H" after a digit. 4H at the beginning would be 1964 or 1974, 74 with the...

That tank looks like it goes with the frame, so I would say it is an X53. The rattrap springer was probably added later, it's the type of fork from 60's spaceliners etc. You should find a serial number that would give you a year. It's Murray made.

Ross has a distinct dropout shape, as your bike shows. The large flange with two rivet marks on the BB also is Ross. And the three holes in the head tube where the badge should go, with the center one larger. That chainwheel is also a giveaway as Ross. The chainwheel pattern can be seen on a...

Sounds good to me. I'm jealous because that bike has a good bit of original paint. Every 40's bike I've had has been stripped of all original paint. What's EF?

Lightning Flyer. The serial number may give you the date of manufacture on that model. I'm guessing 1948, like this one. From a post here in 2016: https://thecabe.com/forum/threads/huffman-i-d.91993/

Schwinn early postwar, just as bobcycles said. I learn something new all the time. I guessed the numbers started with "A" when they went to the forward facing dropouts after the war. I guessed that by estimating how many bikes were built and backing up the letters from the 1948-1952 known...

Looks great! It's probably a late 40's CWC made bike. It looks original to me, I had a 46 CWC that matches up pretty well to that bike. This pic is of a 48 WF, different chainwheel but everything else looks right. I think your paint was touched up but I'm not sure. The serial number on the BB...

It looks like a very old Flying Pigeon frame, millions of them made over in China. I like the rod brakes and the way yours is put together. I would ride it, after straightening the forks.

Colorflow?

First, Columbia is 1962, Second, Columbia 10 speed, late 70's. Third, JC Higgins 1953. Fourth, AMF Hawthorne 1957. Fifth, AMF (not Schwinn) late 60's early 70's. Sixth, AMF Rangerette 1967-1968. I agree with the above opinions on the Hawthorne. I would try to restore it to original if the...

Looks like JC Higgins (Murray):

The axles are always long enough, it's the gap between the frame (stay) and the hub that needs to be done right. On my Varsity and Continental, the yellow band 2 speed and 3 speed went right in and worked fine. The one speed on the Racer also went right in, but I think it started out as a 3...

42 Hawthorne:

I put 26 x 2.125 tires on a 71 silver Racer and 26 x 2.00 tires on a 65 coppertone Continental. Also a 71 yellow Varsity, Schwinn S7 with 2 x 1.34 tire with yellow band 2 speed on the rear and 26 x 2.125 on front. Brakes won't reach, as they were made for 27" wheels, so 3 speed with coaster or 2...

B xxxxx with A Cw is fall of 1949.

I just noticed the rear fender bridge that looked bent. I think the rear stays were pushed together somehow. They look squeezed together, maybe something ran it over. 5 dollar yard art.

You'll probably have to let them soak to get the old hardened grease off them. I also noticed there's no scrapes on the chain guard, so the cranks have never gotten loose. So I would say that bike hasn't been ridden very many miles.

Is it 26"? Messinger? He must have read that off the seat, wrong one although that is a Schwinn seat. Wrong handlebars too. As stated above, wrong fenders, chain guard and bent fork. But, those look like the right S2 wheels and the cranks look right too. If the wheels and cranks are straight...

Chain Bike Corp. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ross_(bicycle_company)

I'll bet all the bearings are caged. I've never seen loose bearings in the 60's Murrays. Usually it's the English bikes that had the loose bearings. Since the bike looks original and lightly used, I would guess the bearings are in good shape too. The seat and pedals look nearly unused. The...

Sure looks like a Ross:

The girls/womens bikes don't have much resale value, but I think they are well worth saving. That 24" bike is good for shorter riders, around 5' tall riders will feel just right on that bike. Maybe it was modded to deliver newspapers with those baskets. The seat is all the way up, so a taller...

You have a nice complete bike. The front brake and reflectors on the grips are great. Well worth your $160 imo. The serial on Huffys have a digit then an "H". Yours is 6H, meaning the year ends in a 6. What decade is up to the features of the bike. Yours is a 66 Huffy made bike imo. Here's a...

"it's probably higher quality than a '70's AMF." The late 60's AMFs were cheap too, In 1966, My 24" Evans Scout had a broken rear axle, and I had a choice of a new bike or get the wheel fixed. I made a big mistake and got the new 24" single speed Roadmaster. It lasted a month before it gave out...

Ross bikes have a lot of features which ID them as a Ross. 3 vertical spaced holes under the headbadge, bar with 2 rivets under the BB, and the dropouts. The serial numbers start with an "R" and the next two digits are the last two of the year. And the chainwheel too!

Trying out my 42 Hawthorne with springer and cruiser bars. Too much sun for my BP medicine, so I had to head back after 15 minutes.

It's built before 1960, when Raleigh obtained most of the English brands. Your BSA chainwheel attests to that.