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I have no clue what this bike is aside from it was originally white, has a 16"front tire on it but could be a 20"frame #R73072800

Being a front fender originally, and slightly shortened for a Bobbed look, I didn't have many working options

So It is done, The 56 tiger rolls out tomorrow with it's rightful owner who is needless to say STOKED. The finishing touches were a torched and oiled purposely burnt chrome front fender, redressed the Bobbed rear, a Brooks (stretcher?) Leather saddle and a brown leather tool bag.

In the hunt for the missing link to exactly what the frame is I managed to confirm difinitively that aside from the Schwinn parts since removed, the drive train and front fork are prewar Huffman.....frame still unknown. In the event it is in fact a Murray as suggested by the MO R210 stamp...

So, in the odd circumstances, what would a hand stamped suspected Murray number such as..... M0 R210 21699 Indicate?

Tssk tssk, not bashing at all. I don't much care for labels, but if one must label at least do so accurately. FYI, Flat or Bare finish hardly makes a Rat. I am quite impressed by the bike in general. Cleaely there is much thought, time, skills, and effort into such a unique frame that carries...

Riding this thing, even at 6'2" tall is a freaky stretch but strangly comfortable.... like riding an old Ironhead with highwaypegs, forward controls, and high rise bars.

Lmmfao, pretty much anyone into the Street Rod and American Muscle Classics Scene or at least has a functional understanding of what Makes a RAT exactly that Silly trendies tend to get on my nerves...... nothing personal.:dizzy: As Badass nice as it is....Your bike is just a one off custom no...

After some clean up and hole plugging, it turns out the fender isn't even a Schwinn, and was not likely ever chrome....it is in fact a Prewar era "Peaked" Roadmaster fender

So, this is where it all began........ WHAT ON EARTH Where it's going.... not sure yet. It wound up dismantled on my buddies scrap pile... then loaded up and drug BACK to my place on a whim. Hell if it's going to the scrap yard why not second look right? I thought about turning into a custom...

If you have a table vice or good set of vice grips you MIGHT be able to luck out in pinching the internal rod with the rubber..... but severe tool marks are inevitable that way. If you have a table vice you might be able to put pressure in a slight angle and parallel to the stud, free up some...

First, I don't consider almost $600 for a complete 164cc Model H Wizzer that doesn't fire CHEAP. Also I have yet to come across a genuine Wizzer that was "cheap" or wasn't totally thrashed already. I think I would trust a "Flying Horse" more than this thing I'm working with... but I don't like...

I'm curious if anyone knows just how hard you can push the 80cc Generic Chinese 2 stroke bike motors ESPECIALLY, with "hop up parts"? So far I have in the works; a velocity stack and HiPerf Pod filter for "NT Speed" carbs, and a RSE Reed Valve intake replacement. I am a pretty knowledgeable...

There always has to be a few of these in a crowd huh?

I know what you mean, My 84 Cardinal Red Greenville CC5 has basically those same forks with but with the extra drillings in the dropouts and 1" chrome inserts on the fork ends kinda like the handle bar end plugs but flat

I can tell you the forks ARE original, the Paint is not. If It don't date check as "Genuine Chicago Schwinn" or date checks after 82 It isn't a Chicago build it is a Greenville Mississippi build. In limited theory it COULD be a Chicago manufatured Frame assembled in Greenville in their first...

Especially Not running bud. You are looking at a pretty money pit...being what it is and not in running is no surprise at all. I had cotton my hands on a fairly rare SX250 2 stroke AMF era Aermacchi HD Enduro. I got it as a LITERAL basket case as is a rolling frame with flat tires, 4...

Clearly the springer forks you are selling got to this..... why would you separate them consideing that headtube lenght is a total B***H to accomodate? I am verry aware that the sum of the whole is greater than that of the complete....but jeeze!

Day late and dollar short lol.... I bought an entire hub for parts off of ebay for 24 because it was cheaper and easier than sourcing the discs, hub drive side bearings, and brake side dust cover. Interested if pending doesn't hold

I am wondering if anyone might have a line on a war era Morrow coaster brake sleeve? I could find the split ring clutch driver but not the actual brake shoe/sleeve. I currently have a decent rim with double butted spokes and a Morrow, but the brake is in 2 pieces as is one half of the two piece...

Well on that note she got her rebirth maiden voyage today...I got a few lowrider magazine style photo angles for fun. She runs so smooth I can not only ride no hands and keep a straight line but also pedal through a corner no hands and she don't get sketchy about it. At some point there will...

As for the debate if this is a 54 or 56, something came up that suggests it MIGHT be a factory rebadged 54 Hornet....or other. The chaingaurd was marked tiger and color matched the frame HOWEVER is other wise 100% physically identical to what is on THIS TRAVELER The rims being coaster single...

So to update..... All bearings are officially packed and locked in, rims finally trued, front forks recentered, and Bob fender might be a loss....I will be switching it to a set of gumwall "Schwinn Studded Balloon Tyres" because they have a lower profile than the tires that were going to be used...

Sorry FISH...That ain't No rat. That is a custom built frame with old parts bolted to it. I ain't blind, I see the fresh welder burns, and know enough to know what I am looking at. She is a nice one though!

I read through this.... all 9 pages I gotta be honest, I have seen a lot of negative and ignorantly biased opinions that would have been best never aired out. As the saying goes opinions are like....... everyone has one, But I gotta be honest and complete that old phrase and in doing so say...

NICE thanks! HE wants to do His Cruiser 5's with dual drums.... So IDK if he would bite. On a side note, I knew about the tire sizr thing because I at one point had come across an old Honda Moped with a blown engine and I used the Michelin tires on a custom 20" build I had done up then. I...

Thanks for your kind offer, but I can't right now. If you still have it availible in a week or two, I will know more of what I can and can't get away with and we can exchange PayPal info. Im can't ask you to hold it for me though I would like to.

Definitely what I'm looking for, but I had something unexpected come up and I'll have to pass for now.... a lot if stuff just went on hold

TY, but could you link it? There is a lot going on in there

Still looking

At this point, I'm not sure the rear rim can be trued without being relaced, more of the nipples seem fused to the spokes than what turn freely though non are crumbling or stuck to the rim. I did mount the rims for mockup and trimmed the front fender to sit bobbed so that's done and ready for...

Well I know lantern batteries are becoming harder to find....like Dcells. Everything keeps being either made with rechargeable built ins or to run from the smallest battery possible. You might check Lowe's or similar though but definitely check for the operating voltage/wattage of the bulbs...

I am doing something alot less by the magazine, and more old school with mine 79 Town and Country with a 3speed and a split rear axle. (Schwinn bicycle equivalent of a Truck LSD) As of right now I have the rear sitting on 20 × 3 rubber and JCHiggins double knurled chrome rims laced to the OE...

That rear fender is likely going to become an issue when riding....better get good at dodging potholes, craters, and avoiding gravel

If it has any of the bulbs intact I would check their base for operating voltage and wattage draw. I would take an educated guess and say it was most probably a 6v lantern battery. If the bulbs are marked 6v 4w than they should be able to handle 12 v okay. Personally I would just do a restomod...

Not sure what that has to do with L15634 directly? I know for a fact now the rims are not original and I am not even sure they are Schwinn rims at all now. New Departure Model D rear New Departure Model WL front. Both chrome No knurling or stamping on the rim hoop at all I got you the...

Based on the catalogue info I FOUND that isn't the case....NBD The following are all measured in inches 1.94 at the top underside of the brake bridge .58 diameter rear stays Downtube, top tube, and seat stay tube are all 1 inch

I could try to date code the ND hubs but I am within 95% certainty the rims are NOT original to the frame bus are as original as built. I looked at Schwinn catalogues for the TIGER, #1 the color and chain guard are consistent with a 56.... #2 it can't be a 54 tiger if tiger didnt exsist before...

I know there are some oldheads kicking around here... I expect you will be the ones to understand best when I say..... FWIW: I despise the abuse of the postwar 50's era term "chopper" and 60's term "rat rod" ORIGINALLY chopper is in reference to the old military dressed Harleys and Indians on...

That's how I found out it was used twice, Specifically L56134 checks out on the lookup tool as being used 05 to 06 1954 and again 04 to 08 1956 I knew it was genuine, I just wanted a date because it's serial is on the rear drop out. Its headbadge has no date code either. So anyway He wanted...

I mentioned in another thread I had a project I was doing for a friend..... So I should have kept up to date from get go with pics and documentation. So the sad state of being a Shcwinn was picked up for $15 on Craigslist being advertised as "50's Schwinn?" It was a carried out and loaded...

They are technically added on, the manner in which they are done..... they were definitely added on by the factory. 52 seems about right with the date coded Morrow spelling out 45. It wouldnt be a surprise since Murray was obly popular by being a knock off of every major label.... in fact...

I am considering not taking much of the info given to me by certain members because A) It is in conflict with readily availible information B) I absolutely Detest misinfirmation.... it grinds my gears worse than fake two faced losers C) If you have no informational basis of proof.... forget...

So I found out this thing vibrates more than a Harley..... Uhg getting a Manic Mechanic CNC Rear mount at this point.... my fabricated plate busted. The front is holding good, so at least the engine didn't fall out and I only had a few yards home from where it snapped and stalled the engine...

I've got a legit truing stand, but since necessity is the mother of invention and I am not shy about fabrication or improvising... I have made a few "adapters" for it. Needing to true a trike hollow hub rim and not being able to mount it in the stand is an issue.

Most bike shops are any thing BUT a shop in my area. Sure they will gladly take your cash to do a so called seasonal tune up. I might be a bit of a prideful punk here....but I sincerely feel any bike owner should know how to do a basic cable/derailure adjustment, PROPPER brake adjustment, and...

EF? The serial doesnt hit on the Schwinn Look up and the headbadge is stamped 0184, which is why it was an easy haggle. He wants Chicago Only in his stable. Further delving into the messy bits and pieces. I consider the all frame mounted types wizzer wannabees....mine happens to be a nicer...

I am hunting for parts myself and parts for a friend....at budget build prices. I am hunting the following.... Decent condition 60's or 70's Schwinn small Speedo Complete: Monarch double springer (restorable condition minimum) I dont realy care how pretty it is as long as everything is there...

Hey all, So after some serious head scratching and cleanup of that OTHER bike (John Deere themed) I found the Morrow beyond use [brake sleeve and one half of the driver ring busted in two] It occured to Me that there was no way to stop that bike equipped with a motor on account of it would...

IDK Why I was thinking 175.... It was a Sears only bike when I got it and it been in the basement a while, it an XR250.