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Pic.

https://buffalo.craigslist.org/bik/d/rare-1954-jc-higgins-girls/6704512494.html

Here is another anomaly to the rubbing issue, on the first "rubbing pic," hand-held - back of fork/left, note the three dimensional dot of brazing that is about 1 mm thick...that dot is just lower than the worst rubbing spot on the steerer tube. If the out of square tube is the issue, the lower...

Bearing cup/steerer may have milled itself, cuz there is no rubbing or friction in the bars, at all.

The worst rubbing is 90 degrees left, and low on non-drive side. Which is strange, bcuz the steerer tube is out of plumb, leaning to the right at top of head tube. This tells me that the entire tube was prolly mated to crown off-center left. And when mistake was realized, they just pulled the...

That photo description was not very accurate...say, back and left, then front, then drive side. First two pics are showing steerer tube out of square.

Photos of rubbing start at back of fork, left side, then front, and finally right side. Pretty sure it is the upper part of lower bearing race cup that is rubbing.

I think distortion in left side of the seat post clamp contributes as well.

What is "Face" the head tube? Is that like "blueprinting" a rifle action (squaring it up to the barrel)? Also, i was looking at the "Asymetricality" of the seat cluster/stays...i think the lighting and camera angle in first pic. I posted exagerated it a bit, peruse these comparison pics.

Wow, never would have suspected that...i saw seamed forks and said, "Yikes!" To your point about the frame alignment, I put the bike together (bars, cranks, cables, changed freewheel) and rode it quite a bit last summer, it rides like a dream, smooth and fast. Helps that it fits me perfectly...

Great info.! Thanks! One last thing, i am not certain, but i suspect the forks may be seamed as well. Have you ever heard/seen that before? It could be that every tube on the bike is seamed, and the seat stays are very small diameter. I will try to get a some pics soon.

Campy dropouts on a low end asian bike...? Don't discount Falk tubing. For a while, i was convinced it had falk tubing, which further suggests a european origin. Who knows...krazy things went on during the bike boom... every kid with a brazing torch was melting something together! Lol

How about a lower quality, but light, durable, frame, or tubing, made in taiwan/japan, during the late '70's/80's aero trend, shipped to Europe (Spain?), and finished off with some lower end European components. Imported to USA. Who made Seamed aero tubing? Tange aero was allegedly pressed...

I am near Rochester, NY. Yes, the rear spacing is 126 mm. I also thought year of manufacture could range anywhere between 1975 and 1988, more likely '77 - '82, for no particular reason, just gut instinct, intuition, and certain features seem to suggest that era. Unclear what you meant exactly...

TRILEX F.D.

Thanks Juvela, i agree, some things make you think, decent bike, it is rather light, and fast, aero tubing, and the campy dropouts, etc... but then the seamed tubing, inferior finish work, And the krazy fastback stays seems like a serious design flaw, from a strength perspective. Yes, i do...

Thanks GTs58, for pointing me in the right direction. i will inquire if moderators can move this there.

BB is 68mm, English thread.

Seat post hole is 26.1 mm.

Also, it has Campagnolo brev dropouts front and rear.

Hi all, i have a real enigma here...got it off CL 2 years ago for $50. It is has seamed aero tubes, lugged frame, and the most unique feature is the brazed?/tigged? Fastback seat stays that attach below the seat lug. Cant find anything like it anywhere, except modern all tigged bikes. None of...

Glad i have the Bendix hub, just strange that there is no manufacturer's information anywhere, except on the brake arm itself.

Thanks Krakatoa, it does indeed have ears on the dropouts. I lowballed, and the seller was unwilling to counter offer, so we will see what happens. Has a some missing parts, including the headbadge.

I think i have it nailed down. I will make an offer on the bike today. Researched old Cabe posts like krazy, and was once again enlightened!! Will keep you posted, Thanks.

The bike also has a "Pre-War" CWC springer fork, which i just discovered...so that narrows it down a bunch.

Hi Cabe, Could anyone please inform me what years Western Flyer used this chainring. Attempting to date a bicycle i may buy just from online pics. I am thinking its a '38 - '48 range. Just wondering if there was a cut-off (last) year for this style, to help narrow it down. Thanks. I hijacked...

Thanks 100bikes, yes. I ran across that diagram in my travels. And to correct how i erroneously described the "collet washer" on a Sturmey Archer, specifically, the S3C, which is very similar to the Perry 2 star brake cone in diagram above, it is the actual brake cone that is shaped to accept...

Beginning to think this brake arm does not belong to this hub. The hub has no manufacturer info. That i can find. It has four separate stripes that resemble heringbone grooves. Two stripes per side, with a narrow groove around the center. RJ the bike guy's video was a Bendix 70, and had the...

There are cone nuts. Unclear if the brake arm just gets squished up against the brake cone square end, and then the cone nut, or cone nut first and then brake arm. Based on star washer imprinting, and wear patterns this photo looks like the way it was together. But may not be correct. As far...

Hi, all, attempting my first ever rebuild of a coaster brake hub. Challenging! Had to chase the axle threads cuz they were buggered. It is a Perry B-100. It came disassembled in a coffee can, with a 1960-ish Rollfast i picked up. The bearing cages were cracked, and couldnt match them at LBS...

My Avatar is a "W" cuz that is the default avatar they give you based on your screen name's first initial. I dont mind it cuz i am a private, suspicious-of-others, and corporations, type person. My screen name "Wild Ralph" makes me LMAO, cuz i first saw it sloppily, hand painted on a friend's...

Update: Sorry, all, I had a busy week. Stopped to check in on owner and she wasn't home late last week. But i visited her today and it looks like things are going to be a go. I drew up a broker contract, just need a signature and some sunshine to take decent pic's. I decided to do one bike...

Western NY, - Srubbinrims

Thanks, Freqman1, i figured the high dollar models would go Cabe, the lower end stuff, just local CL market. I cut my research teeth on BF - "Classic and Vintage" doing 10 speeds, some years back, been repeating that process with these "antique" bikes...getting more comfortable, but there is so...

Unrelated, but i found these at the dump Saturday. Nice Score! '48 Packard - Ladies, '48(?) - 24" Spitfire, and a 20" Western Flyer. All left by same guy. Told the staff he tried to give them to an older neighbor, he wouldnt take them, so he brought them to the dump!

Thanks Everyone, exactly the advice i was looking for! I have sold some vintage 10 speeds on CL before, and know that game. I have not offered the business proposition to the owner yet, but i dont want her to get scammed by anyone off the street either. The Cabe will be the first place i will...

Client would be a little old, local, grandma, whose late husband collected bikes.

Ebay vs. CL, vs. Forum listings, or Facebook...? I am apprehensive of Ebay, dont want to get esnared in Pay Pal accounts, etc., although with bidders driving the price, prolly maximum profit. But i think CL is a pretty large market, as well. My role would be as a broker for a 3rd party, who...

Thanks for the advice Brian R., I appreciate it! Tough dating a bike/frame from a CL ad, with one low quality pic, in the ding weeds, and looks like it could be anywhere from 1910 to 1940. And its a 3 hr. Drive to see it in person.

Hi, all at CABE! I recently got interested in finding an antique bike, but dont have a lot of knowledge on anything older than the '70's. Hoping to find something 1930's or earlier. I like the TOC sloping (60 degrees?) head/seat tube frames. Small budget, so will be rough when i do find one...