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I'm leaning towards Schwinn Predator. My remark as to left side was incorrect, sorry. I meant to say right side rear. Definitely Giant built January 1982.
A spanner wrench would remove the slotted lock nut on the end. Clamping the brake arm in a vice (with a cloth around it) will aid in the removal. If you don't have the proper spanner wrench, you can (carefully) tap it loose with a hammer and punch. Once lock nut is removed, you'll have access to...
"Because you showed interest in this item, the seller sent you this private offer." I didn't ask for a discount. I was contacted via Feebay. Yes I was watching. Only to see if someone would pay the asking price for the item. My decline of offer and accompanying comment was not to be taken as an...
I keep all mine on wood floor or hanging. I see it as similar to leaving a battery on concrete...it kills it. Over time, I believe that concrete will damage tires on anything. Direct sunlight doesn't help either. Just my two cents.
Just built a new set of wheels for a newly acquired 1937 Lincoln. Went to swap wheels and find that the fork is slotted on one side and a hole on the other. Not fun to remove or install, but probably easier than just having 2 holes.
Rubbing alcohol works for me. And it doesn't make a mess if I spill it. Though 50-70 year old grips are the oldest I've played with. Another plus is it kills germs. Win/win.
While riding with the direction of traffic, the trike may pull to the right, due to the crown in the road. The opposite is true while riding against traffic, she'll pull to the left. Are you riding with or against traffic? Just a thought...
Sturmey Archer makes a clamp specifically for the drum brake arm on the fork. There's a couple of different sizes, so you'd be best to determine the size of your fork. The hose clamp works too, just not as asthetically pleasing. Bike looks great!
I believe you have done a great job correctly lacing that wheel. Have you trued it yet? So long as the spoke threads aren't protruding through the nipples, you should be golden. Very satisfying when done. Although the sore fingertips are annoying...lol
Look at how the freewheel moves when pedaling. How close is the chain to the frame when on the smallest sprocket? It should not touch the inside of the frame. You also should never have to "over tighten" the skewer. That says that either the rider is too heavy for the bike or there's a problem...
Without a detailed picture, I am basically guessing the rear axle may just need a small spacer to keep the frame from rubbing on the freewheel? If there isn't enough clearance between the frame and freewheel, binding will occur when over-tightening. Might require removing the freewheel to...
Rivnuts look clean, and are my first choice, but you have to be willing to drill holes. They are permenant but if installed correctly, will work forever. No slipping. No unattractive clamps. Factory appearance.
The parts people won't want are the parts the previous owner had changed, then abandoned it. I refused to re-install the Blackburn rear rack. Looked even more weird with it on. Everyone has different tastes.
I was listening in on a CABDA workshop (remotely during Covid 2020) and they said that 6psi loss per week in tubes today is the new standard. Everything is just made too cheaply now. Makes me sick!
Both the brakes and bottom bracket are beyond my personal abilities. I'd try to bring it back to original, even though it would way over value the bike, but because of the modifications, it will be left alone. I'm a preservationist at heart. Will most likely sell it to try and recoup some of the...
Thanks for the quick reply. I agree with the 0 instead of o. Hard to read on the frame. Were cantilever brakes used on them as well? And that bottle bracket"conversion" is new to me. I've bolted adapters in, but this one appears welded in. Thanks again!
Hi all. Finally getting around to posting my first big question. I need help figuring out what Schwinn frame I have. It's a new acquisition for me. Double straight bar, but has a euro threaded bottom bracket. Serial number is HO42757 located on left rear dropout. Polo seat, tall bars, rear...
North American Cycles (Cycle Force Group) makes alot of promo bikes. Having the Schwinn name on it throws me off though. I've only seen them with the promotional name on them. They normally place a "Cycle Force Group" decal on the seat post tube near the bottom bracket.
Extreme cold weather causes the grease in a hub to stop lubricating. I've gotten 3 complaints within a week of rear coaster brake hubs not working because they are get too cold. Just a thought.
You may want to ask for a complete rear wheel and tire? I see that the spokes have been cut from the missing wheel. Will be a really cool tricycle when complete!
Husky Bicycles is based in Texas and has a website. They sell adult trikes and many parts for them. I have purchased from them in the past. If you need to call them, Taylor is the guy to ask for. He is Uber helpful.
A decent caliper will measure bearing size for you. You need 3 numbers: Size of axle diameter (will be inside diameter of bearing), Inside diameter of axle housing (is the outside diameter of bearing), and Thickness of bearing you'll remove from the trike. They are pressed in. A really good...
I know the frustration. I own a fancy DT Swiss chart and ERD measuring tools that are incorrect a good part of the time. Here's a link to Park Tools tutorial. Hopefully it will help you. Others may have better info...
As a shop, I still use them for customers. 27" wheels arent marketed on new bikes today, but the wheels are still out there and their tubes need to be replaced occasionally. A dollar or less a piece and I think you can come out well. Looks to be only a handful in the crate?
If memory serves me correct, I was told that Ross bikes were built in Allentown Pennsylvania. They also made ammo boxes for the military. I wasn't introduced to them until 1979, when I started my first real job, in a really small bike shop in North/Central Indiana. They were our American brand...
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