rusty_apache
Finally riding a big boys bike
Thanks man!
Here it is after a little cleanup and a proper saddle….
Most of the pinstriping is only a shadow.
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1904 Pierce model 501
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Here it is after a little cleanup and a proper saddle….
Most of the pinstriping is only a shadow.
rusty_apache
Finally riding a big boys bike
Update…
The Fairbanks Boston front rim is “repaired “ and work on the rear wheel laminate has begun.
The laminate has separated in places “repairs “ consisted of a low tension truing of the wheel then loosening all spokes 5 turns.(68 were easily freed thanks to a messy PROTECTIVE coating of tire cement, while four were a little troublesome)
Removing the spoke tension allows the laminate to separate as much as possible to allow more glue to flow into the cavity. The next step was to massage liberal amounts of heated, ordinary wood glue between the layers. Followed by installing the tubular tire, (wipe glue spooge,) fully inflate it, (wipe spooge,) tighten up the spokes three turns, (wipe spooge )and finally, lightly clamp all loose sections that spooge glue when you push them shut. I’m sure the repairs will hold but it’s possible that the unrepaired areas will soon shake loose. I’m going to have to watch and listen to them closely.
lots of cleaning, lubricants, adjustments and cementing yet to do but it has more dignity with tubulars.
these are photos of the rear rim. These shards are glued down now
Robert Dean reminded me to maintain tire pressure for “non display purposes “ and in fact when I removed the rear tire from the Wasp, the rubber cement had failed in places. The tires look great and support my weight with zero air pressure, so putting a tire gauge on our Robert Dean’s periodically is a good idea when you enjoy your wood wheel bicycle.
Lots yet to do before I can ride it, and no Wasp bicycles were permanently harmed in this resurrection. It’s getting the new red tubulars when they arrive!
The Fairbanks Boston front rim is “repaired “ and work on the rear wheel laminate has begun.
The laminate has separated in places “repairs “ consisted of a low tension truing of the wheel then loosening all spokes 5 turns.(68 were easily freed thanks to a messy PROTECTIVE coating of tire cement, while four were a little troublesome)
Removing the spoke tension allows the laminate to separate as much as possible to allow more glue to flow into the cavity. The next step was to massage liberal amounts of heated, ordinary wood glue between the layers. Followed by installing the tubular tire, (wipe glue spooge,) fully inflate it, (wipe spooge,) tighten up the spokes three turns, (wipe spooge )and finally, lightly clamp all loose sections that spooge glue when you push them shut. I’m sure the repairs will hold but it’s possible that the unrepaired areas will soon shake loose. I’m going to have to watch and listen to them closely.
lots of cleaning, lubricants, adjustments and cementing yet to do but it has more dignity with tubulars.
these are photos of the rear rim. These shards are glued down now
Robert Dean reminded me to maintain tire pressure for “non display purposes “ and in fact when I removed the rear tire from the Wasp, the rubber cement had failed in places. The tires look great and support my weight with zero air pressure, so putting a tire gauge on our Robert Dean’s periodically is a good idea when you enjoy your wood wheel bicycle.
Lots yet to do before I can ride it, and no Wasp bicycles were permanently harmed in this resurrection. It’s getting the new red tubulars when they arrive!
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rusty_apache
Finally riding a big boys bike
I received a request for Pierce hub lacing details…
Think of a normal cross 3 lacing pattern but with a horizontal flange rather than vertical.
Think of a normal cross 3 lacing pattern but with a horizontal flange rather than vertical.
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rusty_apache
Finally riding a big boys bike
So I’ve given the pedals about an hour in the oxalic bath with good results but it looks like it could use more time.
Should I keep going and try to get it all?
Also does anyone know the trick for removing the crank bearing retainer plates without mangling them? Oops after wiping it off, putting on glasses and shining a light on it, it became clear it is a split ring.
Should I keep going and try to get it all?
Also does anyone know the trick for removing the crank bearing retainer plates without mangling them? Oops after wiping it off, putting on glasses and shining a light on it, it became clear it is a split ring.
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rusty_apache
Finally riding a big boys bike
Thanks!Great work! You might try vinegar or citric acid on the pedals, might be gentler on the nickel plating. Maybe even soak in Simple Green but keep an eye on it. (that reminds me, I have a chain soaking in it I need to check)
You can’t hurt that chain with simple green.
I like simple green and purple power as degreasers. They evaporate and you throw away the powder.
I’m going to just call them good for now just to be safe. Also I really want to ride it!
rusty_apache
Finally riding a big boys bike
Everything is clean and lubricated so it’s time to glue the Robert Deans in place. I’ve lost track but these tires have been glued, removed and replaced three or four times now.
In a recent conversation with him he mentioned not to ride without positive air pressure in the tires! They ride “softer” without air and that’s what makes them great for display but the pressure prevents the tire from “walking“ around the rim, causing the glue to fail and eventually they walk enough to shear off the valve stem.
So now I’m im the habit of paying attention to tire pressure before heading out!
Beginning 180 degrees from the valve stem, I take four clothespins and remove the steel springs. Then I lift up the tire and insert 6-7 clothespin halves in line with the spokes ( since I avoid applying glue to the spoke nipples) between the rim and tire, rolling the tire partially off the rim in order to apply the cement.
The curvature of the clothespin that would normally grip the laundry allows the rim to seat in it, as a pivot point.
Now the tire can be rolled partially from the rim exposing the rim for easy gluing!
you can’t quite get 90 degrees glued at a time, but almost. Stop and check for centered alignment on the rim and that the valve stem is not badly crooked. Then move to your original starting point, working back to the valve stem and carefully checking alignment as you go.
When you are through the valve stem should have normalized back in perfect alignment with the rim. If not don’t panic. Working your way around the tire, lift a pull in the proper direction to center the valve stem in the rim. Then inflate in order to firmly set the glue.
Here I pulled out the inner pins so that the tire can be centered onto the rim slowly and carefully as it suspends the tire above the until you are satisfied with the alignment. So far this seems to be the least messy approach to cementing tubulars! It’s taking me about 30 minutes per tire to get it done now!
Also thanks to the CABEr that sold me this bicycle wrench! It was invaluable for removing the bearings and for disassembling the crank arms!
In a recent conversation with him he mentioned not to ride without positive air pressure in the tires! They ride “softer” without air and that’s what makes them great for display but the pressure prevents the tire from “walking“ around the rim, causing the glue to fail and eventually they walk enough to shear off the valve stem.
So now I’m im the habit of paying attention to tire pressure before heading out!
Beginning 180 degrees from the valve stem, I take four clothespins and remove the steel springs. Then I lift up the tire and insert 6-7 clothespin halves in line with the spokes ( since I avoid applying glue to the spoke nipples) between the rim and tire, rolling the tire partially off the rim in order to apply the cement.
The curvature of the clothespin that would normally grip the laundry allows the rim to seat in it, as a pivot point.
Now the tire can be rolled partially from the rim exposing the rim for easy gluing!
you can’t quite get 90 degrees glued at a time, but almost. Stop and check for centered alignment on the rim and that the valve stem is not badly crooked. Then move to your original starting point, working back to the valve stem and carefully checking alignment as you go.
When you are through the valve stem should have normalized back in perfect alignment with the rim. If not don’t panic. Working your way around the tire, lift a pull in the proper direction to center the valve stem in the rim. Then inflate in order to firmly set the glue.
Here I pulled out the inner pins so that the tire can be centered onto the rim slowly and carefully as it suspends the tire above the until you are satisfied with the alignment. So far this seems to be the least messy approach to cementing tubulars! It’s taking me about 30 minutes per tire to get it done now!
Also thanks to the CABEr that sold me this bicycle wrench! It was invaluable for removing the bearings and for disassembling the crank arms!
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fat tire trader
Riding a '38 Autocycle Deluxe
I would put those pedals back in the OA and lightly scrub them with a tooth brush soaked in the OA.
rusty_apache
Finally riding a big boys bike
I’ll have to give it a try.
Thanks!
Thanks!
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