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1940 Snyder

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Thanks @mynameislegion , I found it and kept because mine was wrong and I see so many others also wrong.
The @ thing is easy... If you put an @ symbol and and start typing a name this will pop up.....
@myname or @rus ....and clink on the name/s. It sends a notification to that person.

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Nice start you have there. The fork on your bike is, without a doubt, the most difficult fork to get a wheel on or off, without busting your knuckles. See 'restoration tips' post dated august 21, 2016. page #2--Spreading Those Difficult Forks. This fork was introduced in 1938, without the truss rods. They were optional. I hope you have the "rockers" for your fork, as I do not see them on it. I've seen these forks sold at swaps with them missing. They are easy to replicate if you don't have them. Have fun.:)
@the tinker
 
Great info on this thread! The Tinker is so right on the knucklebusting and provides a good thread to see. WetDogGraphix drawing is the kind of practical information that is invaluable. The encouragement of others is a great boost when someone is under-taking a project. Kudos to all.
Lets see if we can get to the gist of skipelmore's posting as to what to expect for the price on a tank for his bike. I have some pics of what I believe would be the correct tank for his bike. If it is not the correct tank then it is at least at the same basic style and "level" of his project. This may be a good opportunity for many people to learn some pricing basics and help those who don't know what to expect. Yes, I believe very strongly in doing your homework and skipelmore has begun on his latest assignment by asking questions to the bicycle community. (CABE)
I don't know how to make the @ thing work but maybe someone could @ for this thread to some of the more active players who could chime in on an approximate price. Let's try.View attachment 756661 View attachment 756666 View attachment 756671
If that doesn't fit my Snyder. It looks close to fit my roadmaster.
 
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